Marsms, I may be at odds with some others, but I'm confident you are getting a quality bullet seater
. There is nothing wrong with Lee's seater die. I've taken a flex-shaft with cutting wheel to most all my dies, especially the seaters, and ground some reference marks on the heads and necks. Now admitedly, it's not accurate like a Redding or Forstner Competition die, but the Lee dies will be fine for you. You can always "upgrade" [spend more] later.
I use the crimp die on many of my bolt-action cartridges without cannelured bullets. I just don;t crimp heavily enough to "form a cannelure" - I do it just to give the neck that extra "squeeze" tension on the bullet. I have noticed an accuracy improvement in some rounds, so I always crimp those loads. The Crimp die is a necessity (for me) for all rounds I reload. Now, with the .35 Rem and .44mag, they need a heavy
crimp, so I can;t do without it there even if I wanted to.
Thank you both for lauding me in the same breath as Flashhole, but it's not deserved. I'm a yearling, having only been reloading metallic since Jan 2009, and have nowhere near the years of experience of Flashhole (et al). I've reloaded about 1600 rounds now in 5 calibers, and I've learned alot, but my experience is limited and my knowledge comes from
the likes of Flashhole and others. Anyway, a nice compliment, thank you. I'm excited to help and offer opinions on what's worked for me, but it isn;t always correct or proven.
Jimbo, I have no idea how the special effects attached themselves to my pictures!