Hey guys, I am still deciding between the 550,650, or 1050 press from Dillon. I shoot competitive 40 cal and 9mm, but plan on reloading 380, 357, 45, and 38 as well on the press.

My reasons for reloading is obviously cost reduction, but I want the top performance I can possibly obtain for my loads. Accuracy is important as consistency. I shoot a lot, so thats why I am going blue.

Any advice on the die setup for the most accurate and consistant rounds would be great.

Not much to be said about die set up, as you should follow their recommendations.

First I'll tell you this....... Progressives are not for people new to reloading.......unless they are very mechanically inclined! like mechanics, maintenance workers, engineers, tool and die makers, machinests and the like. Your typical salesman type is going to really struggle!

I have a 550B and its really quite excellent, but its "a lot" to change over from one caliber to another. Between changing over and adjusting powder charge and mouth flairing tool, switching shell plates (don't forget the set screw hidden in the back!), changing over the primer mechanism, getting the dies set right, etc etc etc. Its an honest 2-3 hour job or MORE, and don't think you can do with your kids pestering you.

They make it easier by selling quick change die holders. I recommend you get one for each caliber, so once they are set you don't have to mess with them again! they change over much quicker , but it adds $12-15 bucks for each caliber. Also use a TAPER CRIMP die.

If you just starting, and are doing pistol only, I'd recommend something like a RCBS partner and "ONLY GENUINE CARBIDE DIES FROM EITHER REDDING OR RCBS."

Good luck.

And OH buy the way.............everyone of those cartridges will be exceptionally well serviced with Winchester 231 powder.

Can't let this go by without my .02. I went from a Lee Loader for one caliber (308 Norma mag) to a Dillon RL 550b.<P>
No problems whatever. Get the video, it's cheap insurance. I use a complete quick-change for each of my most used calibers. For the others, I have one powder measure. I have each caliber set up on it's own toolhead. <p>
With this set-up it takes about 5 minutes to change calibers. With the quick-change it only takes about 2 minutes.

I started reloading with a Dillon 550B, and I certainly don't think you have to start by reloading single-stage (as though it were some kind of initiation). With that said, do get the video and some manuals.

I used to have a 550B (have since upgraded to a Hornady LnL AP) -- and the 550B will certainly serve you well. If you plan on loading a lot of different calibers, keep in mind that as you go up in the Dillon lineup (from 550 to 650 to 1050), converting from one caliber to another becomes more lengthy (in terms of changeout on the press, especially if you don't shell out the $60 per caliber for a dedicated Dillon powder measure) and more costly (in terms of the conversion stuff you must buy from Dillon -- conversion kits for the 1050 cost more than those for the 650 which cost more than those for the 550). Cost and ease of conversion is one of those areas where the Hornady really shines, but I digress -- I'm not trying to sell you on the Hornady (honestly!). And the Dillon powder measure stinks (a long-standing grudge of mine :D). Again, I'm not here to dissuade you from the Dillon, but keep in mind there are a lot of blue-blooded Dillon apologists on the net who are all too willing to tell you Dillon is the best there is, but who have never used anything other progressive. See my anti-Dillon manifesto here (http://www.cs.odu.edu/~rtompkin/hornady/blue.php).


but I want the top performance I can possibly obtain for my loads. Accuracy is important as consistency.

In my experience, a press can really only offer usability, ergonomics, quality construction, etc. Accurate and consistent ammunition can be loaded on the cheapest Lee POS. Again, I digress.

Any advice on the die setup for the most accurate and consistant rounds would be great.

Dillon dies are certainly nice, but are a royal PITA to adjust (especially the seating die). The Dillon set up is unique in that the powder measure also expands the case mouth (other die sets have a separate die for this). However, you can still use other dies in the Dillon. My advice would be any old resizing die on station 1, the Dillon powder measure/expander funnel on stations (which is mandatory anyway), a non-Dillon seat die on station 3... I prefer a non-Dillon seat die since other manufacturers dies have an easy to adjust seating stem (versus Dillon which makes you adjust the whole die body which, again, can be a real pain). You can adjust any non-Dillon seat die to seat AND crimp, but you'll want to crimp separately on station 4. A lot of people SWEAR by the Lee Factory Crimp die on station 4. This die crimps, but also features a carbide sizer ring that smoothes out rounds in case of bulges, etc. (supposed to aid in reliability in automatics). This is fine in theory, but when you resize a loaded round, brass springs back whereas lead does not...

So ... insofar as dies go, the party line is to get a Dillon die set, discard the Dillon crimp die and replace it with a Lee Factory Crimp die. If I still had my 550B, I'd probably use a Lee or Hornady 3-die with a Lee or Hornady taper (not "factory") crimp die, although RCBS or Redding or Lyman or CH4D or Pacific or Herters or Forster or Bair or Lachmiller or Bonanza or Lifetyme or Texan or Hollywood or Bubba's dies would do fine, too (so long as they're not old enough to have the decapper in the expander). I'm rambling -- over and out.

I only use one set of Dillon dies. They are for 308 win. I have been VERY satisfied with them .<P> I have dies from RCBS , Hornady, Redding , Lee and Lyman. Of these, I prefer RCBS or Lee, both with the Lee factory crimp die.<p>The Dillon powder measure has always given great performance, and the toolhead change couldn't be easier. <p> I had a 650 Dillon, but, I was so satisfied with my 550, I sold the 650. Either will give a lifetime of good service, coupled with Dillon's no BS lifetime warranty, who could ask for more?<p> Oh yeah, if you ever have a problem, or break or lose something, give them a call. The help couldn't be more friendly. <p> If you are ever in the Phoenix area (actually Scottsdale), stop in their store. The people there are ready and willing to help you with any problems you may have. With that kind of service, why change?