I'v been using motor mica for a good while via the Forster brush/mica kit. The way I've done it is to run the case over the appropriate brush while twisting it, then dipping the neck in the mica and tapping out any excess lube.

However, occasionally I still come across a bit of a tug-of-war between the neck and expander when sizing. I'm suspecting that the insides of the necks are not getting adequately coated when this happens. I may start applying it with a cotton swab to the inside of the neck, going forward.

What method(s) have worked best for y'all?

RSY

Pretty much the same routine, except I dip the caseneck into the powder first, and every third or fourth case I'll scoop up a little extra and let it pour over the brush as I invert the case. I also try to neck-size only, whenever the weapon permits. Good luck, Good shooting.

I just dip the neck in, and then shake it a bit after I've raised it back outta the Mica.

rsy where do you buy your motor mica from just wondering ?

I use mica also. Found some cases difficult to withdraw the expander button when sizing. They needed to be annealed. The necks were work hardened.

Don

Pretty much the same routine, except I dip the caseneck into the powder first, and every third or fourth case I'll scoop up a little extra and let it pour over the brush as I invert the case. I also try to neck-size only, whenever the weapon permits. Good luck, Good shooting.

That's my method,also.
Frank

I'm using the Frankford Arsenal case neck lube stand that holds the various brushes and has a little tray for the mica, and I use the Frankford Arsenal mica with it. I use it for cases that are deprimed with a universal deprimer and neck sized only so I don't drag an expander ball through them.

I tap the necks in the trough a couple of times and then brush the inside with the appropriate brush. This leaves a very light dusting on the inside that stays for seating and a ring on the outside for the outside sizing. This works for me.

For all of the cases that I size with an expander ball, and of course all full length sized cases, I lube with Imperial Sizing Die Wax.

Fill a 35mm film can (if you can still find one!) about half full of #9 lead shot. Add a half-teaspoon of mica and shake well. When you plunge a case neck into it, the shot helps to "rub in" the mica and also adds enough weight that nothing sticks in the neck when it is removed. I jab necks in five or six quick strokes, wiggle sideways once just to be sure, and it's done. MUCH faster than typing that. You can use a 50/50 mix of graphite and mica, also. I do, and that makes things even smoother over the expander button.

That's the method the NECO neck lube kits use, except they use their super fine lab grade molybdenum disulphide powder in them. It takes very little of that stuff to do the job.

I've taken to working from the die end. I use carbide expander balls in several of my dies, since they elimenate the need for inside neck lube altogether. On a couple of Lee dies I pulled the seater stem and used the Dremel tool and a felt bob to polish the corners with Dico stainless steel grade buffing compound (ACE hardware stores; a product Veral Smith recommends for polishing hardened carbon steel). I then warmed them and treated them with Shooter's Solutions MolyFusion Oil to form a permanent lubricating surface. I haven't run a lot of cases through them, but thus far that seems to have eliminated the need for the neck lubing step, too. I expect grit will eventually scratch up the lube application and it will need to be repeated.

I've got the RCBS case prep kit and lots of Midway Mica.

Personally, don't like to use the stuff and have better luck by just passing the forend pad of my finger across the case neck with the tiniest amount of Imperial Sizing Die Wax on the finger. Works wonders on the expander and doesn't hurt the powder.