Never done this before but I finally decided to lap my scope rings on my new Rifle. I picked up a lapping bar and some compound. Any pointerz?

Make sure you don't lap too far. I have seen some really botched jobs when the lapper tried to get 100% contact and took it to the point that the top and bottom rings touched when tightened down, and the owner wondered why the scope slipped. Make sure that when tightened down that you still have a slight gap between the upper and lower rings, even if that means stopping at 75% contact. If you do go too far, just file or use a belt sander to shave a hair off the upper ring bosses where the two halves make contact. Usually just a few thousandths gap is all that is needed, or wanted. Also, I have all but stopped lapping now unless there is some mis-alignment that needs to be trued up. I get all the hold I need, and I shoot some heavy kickers, using ScotchKote by 3M as an adhesive on 1/2 of the ring set. One drop on the lower ring, assemble, let dry over night and you will not have any more scope slippage.

Have both the Brownell's and the Wheeler Engr. scope alignment tools, as well as the Wheeler lapping bar. Use the alignment tools to determine if the mounts are squared with each other after being installed - usually aren't, to some degree or another. Use the lapping bar with grits supplied (one grade for ferrous, one for non-ferrous metals) to acquire a good matchup of the alignment tools.

Sure save bent and stressed scope bodies this way!

Check the process frequently and take only that amount needed to gain the desired alignment.

This is also a handy way to "break" the sharp edges on the scope rings, especially Ruger supplied rings. Seem they always have an edge that will mark a scope if the edges aren't smoothed or rounded a bit. Piece of fine grit plumber's emery cloth swiped around the edges of the rings while mated will work, too.

Agree with the Scotchkote - a bit messy, but neat stuff.

I'd only lap down to the extent that there weren't any burrs or sharp edges left, unless the rings are badly mis-aligned. In that case, might look into why and what corrective measures ought to be taken (different rings, different bases, etc.).

Mostly I do use one-piece bases so perhaps I've been lucky and haven't had trouble in this respect. Also, on my hardest kicker, the .458, the scope is slid forward against the rings anyway so it's definitely not going anywhere.....

Mike - I've always wondered about that. Do you suppose the turret housing resting against the front ring could cause internal damage?

Any of my scopes that are very close to the ring, due to necessary eye relief, get checked constantly to assure they haven't moved. Sometimes wonder just what would happen if they did use the ring for a chock!

It's the rear bell that's against the ring; I don't think that you'd want the turrent housing to hit anything.

Agree with the Scotchkote - a bit messy, but neat stuff.

I'd only lap down to the extent that there weren't any burrs or sharp edges left, unless the rings are badly mis-aligned. In that case, might look into why and what corrective measures ought to be taken (different rings, different bases, etc.).

Mostly I do use one-piece bases so perhaps I've been lucky and haven't had trouble in this respect. Also, on my hardest kicker, the .458, the scope is slid forward against the rings anyway so it's definitely not going anywhere.....

My son had the sliding scope problem on his .300 Weatherby.
I solved the problem by lightly stippling the rings...

I had another 'user error' today; picked up one of my rifles and noticed that the scope had slid forward in the rings. Oh, AND the rear ring (weaver-style) was loose on the base!!! Some bad words were said..... although this might explain the crappy groups on the last trip to the range. This with a fixed 4x (fairly light scope) on a standard weight .30-06..... and less than a month ago, shot a scope loose on a .22 rimfire!!!

So.... can't be too dilligent or careful about such things! Got sloppy and forgot to check details.