Hi Guys,
I bought 2 Hawes S.A. Revolvers in a box (bad mistake) only reason it was a bad mistake, parts are hard to find and there were way to many parts missing.
Back to my question, I have never work on a revolver in my life, I am in my 50"s and have played with 1911's for a long time and some other auto. Since these guns were in pieces and a lot pieces missing, it has been a great learning expereince (costly to). What my problem is, if you cycle the pistol at a normal speed, it works great! But if you speed shoot it (and I have not done this with live ammo) it won't rotae the cylinder in battery every time, allways seems 1 out of 6, The bolt fits great in every notch, no slop anywhere, when it does this, it just lacks a little of pushing the cylinder far enough.Also like to mention, it doesn't do it on the same notch every time!
i am lost here guys,:eek: tell me what you think! PLEASE

I will be great full for any and all advice!:)
Thanks Greg

Now I have to admit, i don't have a Hawes diagram in my head, so i don't know the differences between it and a tradtional (Colt type) SAA or a modern (Ruger type) SA. Remember the guns, just not the internal details.

Normal would be: rotated slowly, the hand rotates he cylinder, hammer pops the bolt down, then the bolt pops up just BEFORE the notch, and the hand still rotates it that last bit so the bolt falls into the notch. Should work like that when rotated quickly too.

Test it by cocking the gun real-real slow, with a light amount of drag supplied by a finger laid on the side of the cylinder. Ideal is that the notch and bolt fall together just as the hammer (or a tiny hair before) hits rear stop.

IF that checks out to be right, then I'd start to suspect the spring powering the bolt. If it's weak enough, then when the bolt slams into a fast truing notch.

IF the Gun pre-times a bit too much (having the bolt fall into the notch a good bit before your hammer is fully back) then it might be that at speed, the cylinder ro=ates past the notch before the weak sping can pop it in place.

The Hawes are more like a Colt than a Ruger, as far as operation.The sear bolt spring is new (I know that doesn't mean anything< i di the finger drag like you told me to, evrything worked as planned. To the best of me, the cylinder lacks just a little of getting into battery, when speed shooting! Could the hand spring be weak? and not keeping pressureon the cogs hard enough?
If a person wanted to go plink, and not speed shoot there would not be no problems. i just don't feel safe with the gun operating eratic?
Any other thoughts?
Thanks greg

Here's a couple of books I'd recommend to help with those problems.

http://www.brownells.com/aspx/ns/store/ProductDetail.aspx?p=5754&title=GUNSMITHING%20PISTOLS%20&%20REVOLVERS

http://www.brownells.com/aspx/ns/store/ProductDetail.aspx?p=17779&title=COWBOY%20ACTION%20HOW-TO%20VIDEOS

Does the hand need adjusted?

I hand set top and bottom on every cog on the cyclinder, i would think, if the hand needed work it wouldn't go into battery everytime on every cyclinder when slow shooting. It just seems that the spring on the hand might be weak, and when you are speed shooting, it doesn't hold tight enough on the cyclinder cogs?????????

What do you think
Ace

I hand set top and bottom on every cog on the cyclinder, i would think, if the hand needed work it wouldn't go into battery everytime on every cyclinder when slow shooting. It just seems that the spring on the hand might be weak, and when you are speed shooting, it doesn't hold tight enough on the cyclinder cogs?????????

What do you think
Ace

I don't know about this style of SA, but if it were a Ruger I'd tell you you need a new cylinder latch spring. If the fast firing is the problem, I'd tend to think the cylinder latch that pops up and locks in the cylinder slot isn't coming up fast enough, or providing enough stiffness to stop the cylinder. The cylinder latch stops the clockwise motion of the cylinder, the pawl stops the counter clockwise. If you're firing fast, the cylinder is spinning right faster and it might drag out the non-latching problem.

Jeff, what it is doing if you are speed burning, the hand is slipping off of the cylinder cogs premature, That is the only spring in the gun that isn't new. I took it to a gun smith and he said it was okay, but, he isn't up to date on how fast you can thumb fire.
I am going to put the other gun toghter today, I hand a hard time finding a hand. Ken from Superior Ind. sold me a hand, but he told me it didn't have a spring, I was desperate, so I told him to ship it!
Now today i am going looking for a spring, someday when I need more parts for something else i am going to order 2 new ones from nunrich.
Thanks Jeff