looking for any clue about what is in the rust blue that Brownells sells. I tinker with old guns, sometimes for me, sometimes to unload! I love old SXS and if I get a decent one, that needs some love, I won't do any magor work on them. But the day I bought a NR Davis 12ga site unseen :eek::eek::eek::eek:. It is a basket case, so I am going to spend my time going threw this gun, doing everything right as far as restoration, which just kills the vaule, but on this gun you couldn't hurt it value:eek::eek::eek::eek:
My Dad allways told me 1/2 of zero is still zero:rolleyes:
So if anyone can point me in the right direction I will be great full:D
Thanks Greg

If you are asking what are the chemicals that are used to make cold gun bluing, I think the two main ones are Sodium Hydroxide (common lye), Potassium Nitrate (Salt Petre) and water (I think distilled). It there is an additional chemical, I can't remember it. And I believe its two parts lye, one part salt petre, not exactly sure on the water. I saw a formulation one time that listed 15# lye, 7.5# salt petre, 3 gal distilled water. I guess that is two to one plus so much water if you are making a small amount. That's the best I can do. Maybe you can try testing an area that won't be seen. Good luck.

Model99,
Thanks for the info, I am going to research as much as I can, i want to find out excatly what is in the Brownells Rust Blue. From what I have read, it is a long process and if done right, it look as close to orginal as you can get. I play around with old Double Barrel Shotguns, but if they are decent I just clean them up good. I bought this old junker, that will make a nice gun, but not a collector gun, because it was painted black I have to make a new stock, ect.
I am in to Cowboy Action shooting, most people buy the imports, and i understand, but I like the Old American made guns if I can afford them. I shoot a 1866 model 66 Uberti not a 1866 Winchester.
Thanks Greg

Give Brownell's tech section an email and ask the same question. They will either tell you or won't. These rust blue formula's have been around for a long time and their no secret, same with parkerizing.

facucettb, Never though of that, i guess all they can say is no!
Thanks Greg

Down here in the south we tend to do a lot of things "our own way", so here is a southern recipe: One pint of used motor oil ( burnt oil ) and one dozen egg whites. Heat the barrel until water barely sizzles then slosh the recipe on liberally. it'll look kinda Parkerized.

2 oz. nitric acid and 2 oz hydrochloric acid mixed in a heat resistant pottery crock. add as much iron filings as will disolve in mixture. Strain and add 1 pint of distilled water. Some old timers used to add a small bit of copper sulphate to the mix. ( be sure to mix all components out of doors. The addition of the iron filings will produce a brown vapor that is highly flameable, so be sure to wear good quality rubber gloves, and stay up wind.)

To use, make sure the parts to be browned are completely de-greased before applying the mixture in long strokes. Place parts in a damp area and allow rust to form. Card off the rust and repeat untill the desired color is achieved. place parts in oil bath and polish with steel wool, or if a blue/black finish is desired, do not oil. Instead boil in distilled water. remove and as soon as dry place in oil bath. Finish up with a 0000 steel wool buff.

Laurel Mountain Forge's browning solution makes a very good rust blue. Simply boil the parts in soft water after it has had time to work. The only rust blue I use.

Hi GCollins- Charley is giving good advice with regards Laurel Mtn. Browning solution being the best dang stuff when used in its blue mode. I've used a lot of different rust blue solutions, but have never run across one that works better. You go on Laurel Mtn. home page and down load the browning/blueing instructions. Stone easy. Midway carries it. Also Dixie and Brownells--Cariboo

thanks guys, I will go give that a look, I am ready for the snow to go! I want to get out of this house!!
Thanks Greg

I can not find there home page:eek::eek:
Help Me PLEASE:D:D

I have looked and looked, and cannot find there home page.
I will be most great full for any help!
Greg

Can order it from here:
http://www.trackofthewolf.com/(S(ipe3fmeyd2zuomvvpxscl2ay))/categories/PARTDETAIL.ASPX?CATID=5&SUBID=65&STYLEID=221&PARTNUM=LMF-BROWN

ribbonstone, thankk you very much! Maybe they don't have a web site anymore? The only reason I wanted to go to there home page was to dowload all the spec's &procedures.
Thanks so much
Greg

Ill check on a bottle...have an un-opened one out in the shop, but i don't remember a web site...but haven't read all the tiny print.
----
Just an address:
Laurel Mountain Forge
PO Box 52
Crown point, IN 46308

219 548 2950

Try www.laurelmountainforge.com (http://www.laurelmountainforge.com) .

Lee, you the man!!! Like everything else I have tried to do here lately no luck.Thank you Thank You, and Thank you
Have a good weekend.Greg

Greg, their instructions for use are posted there, and can also be used with the formula I posted earlier.

Hi GCollins-I just checked and the download is there. I just tapped in "Bluing instructions Laurel Mountain Forge" and up popped the info. Best of luck with the job--Cariboo

thank you pard, i also did that, got them printed of, now just need it to warm up a little so i can go out in the shop, and get it shinny, I am almost there now.
I had to use paint remover to get the black paint of the barrels and reciever.
Thanks again
Greg