ok so after talking on the phone to alot of people i got in a bind on whether to leave it original or to refinish the badly worn stock see pictures this is how it is or better than average on the whole gun, it was my grandfathers so unless something drastic happened or they began fetching about 3000 i would not sell it i would prefer to get it into a useable condition and hopefully add to its life a while, should i refinish and deminish value or make it nicer to look anhttp://IMG_1014d when im using it the next while?????????:confused :confused:

Since that M-70 has been in your family for a while, I would assume it should stay in the family. The M-70 (1951) .30-06 that I inhereted from my dad, has been refinished at least 3 times by me. I never sand it, but do strip it and refinish with the material of choice (have used True oil, tounge oil, urethane). Also have glass bedded it. Have shot 1000's and 1000's of rounds through it and hopefully will shoot a few more. The way I feel about it is this: It's mine now and I will use it as I see fit. Anyone who gets it after I'm gone is just darned lucky.

Rev

Another option is to get another stock for your rifle. You could keep the original stock in its original condition, and find another nicer stock on eBay, or refinish the replacement stock if necessary. There is tons of pre-64 Model 70 stuff for sale on eBay. Just a thought! :D

any way we can see pictures before we vote

On older rifles I plan to keep and use, I prefer a stock "refreshing" to a stock refinishing. #1 rule in refreshing -- NO SAND PAPER!! I use 0000 steel wool and an old toothbrush in combination with mineral spirits to do a gentle removal of old finish and an overall, thorough cleaning. Breaks are repaired, bad dents are steamed out (or at least steamed enough to reduce them). Then I refinish with numerous, thin, hand-rubbed applications of Tru Oil. When all the pores of the wood are well-filled, I'll give it a final buff with the 0000 steel wool, and end-up with a well-sealed low-gloss finish. The result is a stock that is perfectly useable, with an age-appropriate look and patina to it, that does not look like a skinned cat because of sandpapering. A well-preserved stock, and not a refinished one.

Pisgah gave some great advice if you plan on doing a refresh of the original stock - otherwise I agree with those who said to find a different stock to use and refinish, thereby allowing you to do whatever you want and still preserve the original for collectibility's sake.

I like Pigsah's advice too... sounds like a good way to keep the rifle "grandpa's rifle" with some protection and not refinish it into something else.

How about them photos?

sorry about the pics i dont know what happened ill try to get them on again tonight

I agree with Rev and Pisgah; No sandpaper. A refresh with Tru-oil or other oil. I did just that with my late dad's deer rifle. I'll never sell it and I doubt my son will either when I'm done.

sorry to keep adding to here i was talking to a guy today and he said if i were to refinish it ( i bought the tru oil kit) he said it will fill in the checkering and advised me to get it recheckered, however he is also a gunsmith who does recheckering for $250 a stock is it true it will fill in checkering or should i jsut tape over the checkering and finish it using tru oils directions


ill get this whole stock thing figured out one of these days!

I would apply Tru-Oil to the checkering with a well worn, soft bristled toothbrush before applying to the remainder of the stock. This of course after cleaning the checkering with a fairly stiff brush. I use the nylon bristle brushes like are used for cleaning guns. Stiffer than toothbrushes. You want to get all stripper residue out of the checkering.

Don't fill in the checkering! Tape over it with masking tape so you don't fill in the checkering with your multiple coats on the stock. You can put one final coat of Tru-Oil in the checkering when you're done with the rest of the stock (or get a little bottle of checkering oil from Brownells), but use it sparingly.

The substitute stock idea has a lot of merit, however.

Wash it with alcohol, after completely tearing it down an inspecting the rest of it. When you are down to the bare wood with no hardware, wash with alcohol several times just to get any grit and nasties off. Put on 6-7 coats of boiled linseed oil. This will fill a lot of scratches and enhance the wood. Give it a tender and loving extra long petting session with 000 or 0000 steel wool. Step back and look at it you will be impressed and will not have changed the wood size or shape. Just brought the natural beauty back to life. The toothbrush cleaning crevices is a good plan, use a childs they have softer bristles.

ok im getting a lot of mixed stories and i dont mean to blame anyone but in the instructions with the tur oil kit it said do not use a linseed oil coat because it would not work well with the final tru oil and stain, thanks for all the help with this project of mine!!

mthunter,
I think the advice was to use one or the other, not both. Either stick with the Tru Oil plan, and Tru Oil only, or linseed oil only, not a combo of the two. At least I THINK that was the intent of the advice....

Since that M-70 has been in your family for a while, I would assume it should stay in the family. The M-70 (1951) .30-06 that I inhereted from my dad, has been refinished at least 3 times by me. I never sand it, but do strip it and refinish with the material of choice (have used True oil, tounge oil, urethane). Also have glass bedded it. Have shot 1000's and 1000's of rounds through it and hopefully will shoot a few more. The way I feel about it is this: It's mine now and I will use it as I see fit. Anyone who gets it after I'm gone is just darned lucky.

RevYou have nothing to worry about with your 06.A former National High Power Rifle champion from 1950 & 1951 shot a garand qual round with us in the late 70's with his 1903 Springfield that had seen more than 50,000 rounds fired thru it ,only 6 inches of rifling was left near the muzzle but shooting at 100 yards simulator targets the 600 yard bull was the size of a dime and he put all of his standing ,prone & kneeling shots in the bull we guessed he was in his 60's or older but man was he good.

i go with Mudstud; beg, borrow, buy or steal another stock and do whatever you feel like doing with it. When a serious collector come around, put the old stock on it; serious collectors like the as-is, untouched item. Semi-serious collectors are charmed by a shiny new appearance. And guys who want it for the action, don't really care what you did with it. That's the reality of it.

Bud W

I would try a light sanding with 400 grit NORTON sand paper. Just enough to allow some bichwood-casey Walnut Stain to hit the wood with some of the original stain present. Then apply a coat of Tru-Oil, buff with 000 steel wool, and repeat until you like the results. I call this my "non-invasive" method.

I have done this on several old rifles that I did not want to take away the true tone of the rifle/wood.

Ric

Sorry, forgot to add the part where you use Johnson's Wax to finish the finish. If you like a more satin finish, use a small piece of steel wool with the wax to take the sheen down.

Hope this helps,

Ric

Sorry, forgot to add the part where you use Johnson's Wax to finish the finish. If you like a more satin finish, use a small piece of steel wool with the wax to take the sheen down.

Hope this helps,

Ric

I certainly agree with the steel wool and the Johnson's wax. but why the sand paper? I say just raise the dents/scratches with steam, steel wool with 000, and then apply the finish of choice. IMHO, any actual wood removal is too much. Just my $.02.

Rev