I'm finally ready to start reloading my own but have no idea were to start. RCBS has a kit that seems like it has everything you need and lee seems like there inexpensive. I want to start slow and build up. Should spend the extra if ones better than the other or will the lee work the same. What is the minimum amount of tools in need to get started. Seems like a press, powder scale, micrometer, and i have no idea what else. Cheaper than dirt list a lee 50th anniversery that might have everything i would need. Thanks for any help.

I've had about most of the equipment that's on the market over nearly 50 years of reloading. I can't see a bit of difference in the accuracy of ammunition loaded on any of the presses available today. This means the least expensive Lee equipment loads as good of ammo as Corbin's 1300 dollar press.

I've been using Lee's Anniversary loading kit now for about 15 years and load for well over 30 different cartridges from handgun ammo to varmint and big game ammo and like Lee's equipment enough that's it's the main component on my bench. I recommend Lee's new Breachlock kit along with Lee's new manual and the Lyman manual.

Here's my bench setup. I liked my RCBS Rockchucker, but found the Lee was ergonomically easier to use.

http://i136.photobucket.com/albums/q172/faucettb/Reloading/ReloadingbenchRemodel-40.jpg

Getting the measures up off the bench along with the powder scale at eye level makes for more bench space and ease of use.

http://i136.photobucket.com/albums/q172/faucettb/Reloading/Shopanddog-34.jpg

http://i136.photobucket.com/albums/q172/faucettb/Reloading/LeeSafetyscaleoncustomholder.jpg

I do all the casting on the same bench along with loading for the shotguns. My two Lee shotgun loaders are on a piece of round plywood and can be fastened to the bench from under bench storage by using a half inch bolt and a wing nut.

http://i136.photobucket.com/albums/q172/faucettb/Reloading/bulletcasting2.jpg

Here's my shotgun loaders on their little lazy susan.

http://i136.photobucket.com/albums/q172/faucettb/Reloading/shotgunloaderturntable.jpg

Kits are just fine for starting out, but the most important question you should first ask is "How much do I plan to load & How many calibers?" This will determine how advanced the equipment needs to be to meet the answer. Many reloaders have had buyers remorse wishing they had gotten a progressive or something bigger.

I'm finally ready to start reloading my own but have no idea were to start. RCBS Seems like a press, powder scale, micrometer, and i have no idea what else. Cheaper than dirt list a lee 50th anniversery that might have everything i would need.

#1 Get wife's permission
#2 Find out where she will allow this to happen
#3 Recheck #1 & #2
#4 Avoid casting bootlits..... just like reloading it's way to much fun which reduces time for the honey do list.

If Bob didn't mention it get a couple good reloading books like lyman's, Speers, ABCs of reloading and or Lee's. Be sure to check out this site for pics of bench set up. At site similar to this are 100s of threads covering what's best to start off with Dillon vs. RCBS vs. Lee vs. Lymans. The truth is they all work very well. Cost was my concern so I most of my stuff is Lee and have no complaints. I really do recommend starting with a single stage press. It the KISS thing till ya KNOW what each step requres....rechecking:D. Even if you upgrade later the single stage will stay on you bench and get used!
The micrometer is great to have but when checking OALs I like dial or digital calipers.
Remember to recheck 1&2:p

"I can't see a bit of difference in the accuracy of ammunition loaded on any of the presses available today. This means the least expensive Lee equipment loads as good of ammo as Corbin's 1300 dollar press."

After some 47 years of loading, DITTO!

Some folks try to make reloading almost a black art with incantations to be spoken around idols of green or blue. Nonsense.

All our makers produce fine, functional tools and suggesting a newbie jump onto advanced gear the rest of us grew into over a perod of years and tens of thousands of rounds is foolish. Especially so if he NEVER gets into tens of thousands of rounds a year!

The Lee Anniversary Kit does fine for a LOT of people, it's all many of them will ever need too.

I would recommend a new reloader start with a single stage press rather than a progressive. Rembrandt it right about a progressive being a good tool if your planning on loading a lot of handgun or 223 ammo, but, it's not the way for a new loader to start out learning to reload.

Another poster recommended that you get several manuals and that's also a good idea. I like Lee's and Lymans, but have a dozen or so altogether. Speer's is good reading as it discusses the history of each cartridge in it's manual. If you use a particular bullet such as Seirra or Hornedy I recommend their manuals as they are bullet specific.

I started with the Lee anniversary kit a couple of years ago and have no complaints. for me being able to get started with a low start up price was important due to Daboone rule #1. I have added a few pices of equipment but the kit had pretty much every thing I needed to start and I have had many hours of enjoyment at my loading bench. Get started have fun and as others have said get several manuals and read as much as you can. If you run into questions along the way there are many good people her to help you out

RodneyJ

I started with the Lee anniversary kit a couple of years ago and have no complaints. for me being able to get started with a low start up price was important due to Daboone rule #1. I have added a few pices of equipment but the kit had pretty much every thing I needed to start and I have had many hours of enjoyment at my loading bench. Get started have fun and as others have said get several manuals and read as much as you can. If you run into questions along the way there are many good people her to help you out

RodneyJ

Check out Midway or Natchez. Lee Anniversary with Breech Lock is nice cause it has bushing to change out dies. Set them up once and then just take them in and out with the bushing attached. Wish they had it when I got the Anniversary Kit. Also, The Turret press Kit would also be a good choice. I've got both of them. For what it is worth Richard Lee said if he could only own one press it would be his Turret Press. I use the Lee Auto Prime to prime and the Lee Powder Measure Kit to charge the case. The Lee powder measure dippers ensure accurate powder charges without having to keep checking charge weight. One of the dippers hold 9.6 grains of Unique which is perfect for .45 colt. Many people consider the Lee Auto Prime to be the single most useful pieces of reloading equipment. Can't disagree with anything faucettb said.

I started years ago with an RCBS Jr (single stage) press, a scale and a set of dies. I reloaded rifle and pistol ammunition for years, with the only addition after a couple of years being a powder measure. I primed using the press, and sifted powder for the rifle rounds with a small spoon and a bowl onto the powder scale pan. Pistol cartridges were loaded with powder scoops, many of which I made myself, until I bought the Lee set. Loading can be simple or complicated; I recommend simple to start and get other stuff as need arises.

In addition to the other sites, check Kempfgunshop.com. They have a good selection of Lee, in-stock (that's key), and are as low or lower than others.

I went with the Breech Lock Challenger kit. It comes with the hand-primer (auto prime I think they call it). IF I had it to do all over again, I'd get the Classic Cast press or the Classic Turret Press (like Bob has) and assemble all the other stuff (scale, hand primer, dies, trimmers and chamferers, etc.). Not that the Breechlock isn;t a nice press, it is, but the Classic Cast catches my eye more and is a bigger, beefier press. At the time I ordered, I really didn;t fully understand the process and therefore depended on a Kit to ensure I got everything I needed.

I second the motion for good reloading manuals. Lee and Lyman were recommended to me as two of the most helpful (along with others, of course) and now that I have several manuals I can only pass on that same recommendation. The Lyman is the easiest to read because it has larger type, it gives a little history behind each cartridge, but it has less loads. The Lee is very comprehensive and, since they don;t sell components, has the most loads, reaching across a broad spectrum of bullets and powders. Both are invaluable reading that teaches the process and reveals the pitfalls before you begin to reload. You can also pick up Hodgden, Alliant, Vihta Vouri, and other powder pamphlets for free at your gun stores, and they help add to your load selection but usually give little reloading advice.

Good luck!

Lee, Lyman, RCBS kits are all good values. You don't say what or how much you shoot. I started with a Lyman turret kit and have never seen a need to go to progressive, even when I used to shoot a couple hundred rounds a week. I like a turret or C frame press better than an O frame, but that's just a personal preference.

The kits get you a lot of the odds and ends you will need at a discount.

I think a lot of it may be what color you like, red, orange or green.

Before you decide on which set to purchase, suggest you find a place where you can do the "touchy/feely" test on the items. Along with price differences, starter set items can have subtle differences in how they feel and perform. I'm from the old school of measure twice, cut once. Wish I had taken my own advice as my first reloading set was purchased based on cost which led to improvement upgrades years later. After making your choice, go shopping for the best price. Don't forget to factor in shipping costs as that can make an "on-line" purchase closer in price to buying locally. Also, some great buys can be found in used equipment on-line from sellers who have decided that reloading was not their "bag". In this case, would suggest you not purchase used die sets but rather, buy them new. Just my dos centavos from someone who's been reloading since '63.

Thanks for all the great responses. Im leaning toward lee turet or anniversary set. Ill be loading 22 hornet(dont have the gun yet) 308 win and 7-30 waters. Does the lee pacesetter set come with a sizing die and what does a factory crimper do, its says it increases accuracy.

Im leaning toward lee turet or anniversary set. Ill be loading 22 hornet(dont have the gun yet) 308 win and 7-30 waters. Does the lee pacesetter set come with a sizing die and what does a factory crimper do, its says it increases accuracy.

Yes, the Pacesetter set comes with the sizing die. All complete dies sets do.
I don't know what guns you are loading for, but the bullet seating die in the Pacesetter die set will crimp bullets too. Not all bullets need to be crimped, though.
If you do need to crimp, the Lee Factory Crimp die will do it, but you probably don't need it for 22 Hornet. If you are shooting the .308 in a bolt or single shot gun, it shouldn't require a crimp either.

I have tried the Factory Crimp die on a couple of different cartridges. I can't see any increase in accuracy, and for a couple of types of bullets, it actually made it worse.

Jumbo,
The Pacesetter sets come with a full-length sizing die. This die sizes the entire case. You can use it on all your brass, but it isn;t necessary with brass that has been fired in your rifle. That brass has fire-formed to your rifle's chamber. If you want, you can neck size that brass with a Lee collet die. This die sizes only the neck, leaving the remainder of the cartridge unchanged. I've read this can improve accuracy and also that it allows more reloads from a case because the case isn;t stressed so much when sizing.

The collet neck-sizing die is sold seperately or as a set if you buy the Deluxe Rifle Dies. These dies come with both the full-length and the collet die, in addition to the dead-length bullet seater that comes in a Pacesetter set. The only thing you don;t get with a Deluxe set is the Factory Crimp die. That can be purchased seperately for about $10 but, like Dean said, few use it. I have a factory crimp die and have only used it on a few reloads - just to try it out. I don;t use it any more. The bullet is seated tightly in the case and doesn;t need a crimp, unless you're reloading for an auto-loader or for some other reason that the bullet may be impacted harshly and need a crimp to stay put.

I started out handloading in the last 10 years. I have really enjoyed it. I bought the Anniversary Kit from Lee and I have had great results. I think you learn a lot from using Lee equipment because it allows you to think outside the box. Nothing has to be the way it always was. To get that economic factor some of those things have to be done differently. Especially when machined parts are concerned and doing it with more economical materials. I have not broken anything yet but when I do I will be able to replace it without much money. That being said, the good stuff is a joy to work with also.

So it seems that the first step is to size the case and remove the primer. Does this size the diameter and the case has to be trimmed in a separate proses. Whats the difference between full lenth sizing or neck sizing. And one more how accurate are the powder dippers(scoops)Vs. the drum type measurer. Thanks for the help ill try to save only the hard questions from now on in.

Full-length sizing removes the primer while, at the same time, the tapered (decapping) mandrel is pushing down through the neck, opening it and ensuring roundness. At the bottom of the stroke, a collet squeezes the neck inward, making it smaller in diameter. Also, the collet is squeezing the outside of the case body, ensuring it meets minimum (or maximum) dimensions. On the upstroke of the ram, the mandrel, whose widest part was previously down deep inside the case, is pulled through the neck, opening it to ensure its inside diamter is round and to minimum/maximum specs.

A collet neck-sizing die has a straight (not tapered) mandrel which also decaps the primer. The die does not resize or alterthe case body. Instead, at the top of the stroke, the collet squeezes the neck against the un-tapered mandrel, ensuring it meets minimum/maximum dimension.

Case trimming and deburring should occurr after the sizing stage, because the case length can change in the sizing process.

With Lee dies, a powder dipper comes with every set. The size of the dipper is equal to the average amount of powder used for that caliber. The dipper are measured in CC's, and in the Lee Modern Reloading manual, a column is used to show how many CCs for a particular charge - within a relative tolerance. I used mine for awhile, dipping out a scoop of pwder, carefully scraping off the top so it was even, then weighing it in the powder scale. It was relatively accurate, within a few tenths of a grain, but that wasn;t accurate enough for me. Plus, what if I wanted a grain more? or two grains less? I think they're designed for reloading at the range. They'll do for that purpose, but not for accurately working up loads that are consistent.

ON EDIT: I have upstroke and downstroke of the ram inverted (reversed), but I think you understand.

So it seems that the first step is to size the case and remove the primer. Does this size the diameter and the case has to be trimmed in a separate proses. Whats the difference between full length sizing or neck sizing. And one more how accurate are the powder dippers(scoops)Vs. the drum type measurer. Thanks for the help ill try to save only the hard questions from now on in.
If you're doing a caliber that has carbide dies available, get the carbide. They're easily worth the price increment.

Yes, the length is trimmed separately.

I got rid of my Lee dies, and bought RCBS. The lee depriming pin's shaft is held in the die by a collet, and I couldn't get the dang shaft to stay in place; it kept slipping upward. RCBS are held in place by threaded rods that lock in place with locknuts. I think the lee locknuts that hold the dies in the press with an O-ring are crap, too.

Baking is done with measuring spoons. Measuring explosive compounds into a container I'm gonna ignite while holding in my hand and near my face - well, I'm not gonna do that with baking tools. I use powder measures that I can set up with a scale, and I calibrate that scale using check weights.

Baking is done with measuring spoons.

Not if you ask my wife or mother in law, they don't need no stinking spoons!

I'm finally ready to start reloading my own but have no idea were to start. RCBS has a kit that seems like it has everything you need and lee seems like there inexpensive. I want to start slow and build up. Should spend the extra if ones better than the other or will the lee work the same. What is the minimum amount of tools in need to get started. Seems like a press, powder scale, micrometer, and i have no idea what else. Cheaper than dirt list a lee 50th anniversery that might have everything i would need. Thanks for any help.


I received a Lee Classic Cast Iron Turret Press for Christmas . I like it . If it is in your price range , see if they sell it as a kit .

If not , consider their cast iron single stage press .

God bless
Wyr

Whats the difference between full lenth sizing or neck sizing.

Stretch gave you a pretty good idea of the mechanics. What you probably need to know most at this point is the application. If you shoot semi auto rifles, you will need to full length size your cases to make sure they will all chamber. Many semi autos don't have enough force on the moving bolt to chamber rounds that haven't been full length sized.

Neck sizing will get you more loads from a piece of brass, usually, but if you want to neck size, you have to use that brass in the same firearm it came from in the first place, and it will have to be a bolt gun, or maybe a single shot. Once brass is fired, it assumes the shape of the chamber it was fired in, and if you only neck size it may not fit in the chamber of another gun. Even if using the same gun and brass all the time, you will probably have to full length size, or at least bump back the shoulder now and then.
There is nothing wrong with F/L sizing all the time for any gun, if that's what you want to do.

All straight walled cases get full length sized.

Trim after sizing, as others have said. Brass stretches from the sizing operation. Trimming before sizing is fruitless.


And one more how accurate are the powder dippers(scoops)Vs. the drum type measurer. Thanks for the help ill try to save only the hard questions from now on in.

Dippers work great. You just have to use them consistently. Some people don't like them for one reason or another, and they enjoy saying so. If they were good enough for Dean Grennell, they're probably good enough for anyone else. However, they are not the proper tool for working up maximum loads. If you want to load hot, weigh everything.

Don't let someone talk you out of a certain brand. Everyone doesn't like something.
It's true, RCBS is just as good as Lee or Redding, but any manufacturer's dies will load excellent ammo. There are usually no problems with anybody's dies, although I have had trouble with some that did not come in a red box...

Before ya start, here's something to think about:D

Originally Posted by Dakota Red 1 View Post
Hey, here is something that isn't in the manuals. Cats are not good reloading helpers. Throw their furry a$$es out of the room and shut the door. If you don't have cats shut the door anyway. They are sneaky. And for any reason don't leave a shallow pan of case tumbling media on the floor.

Suggest you get the Lee Delux die set, it include their excellant collet neck sizer, omits the factory crimp die. The FCD is sold indivitually, for not much, if you do want to try crimping.

The vaule of crimping, or neck sizing, varies with the rifle. Nothing's automaticlly better or worse in this game.

Suggest you get the Lee Delux die set, it include their excellant collet neck sizer, omits the factory crimp die. The FCD is sold indivitually, for not much, if you do want to try crimping.

The vaule of crimping, or neck sizing, varies with the rifle. Nothing's automaticlly better or worse in this game.


Neck sizing only , tends to mak / let the brass last longer .

I do not crimp bottle neck rifle brass .

God bless
Wyr

If I had it to do all over again this is what I would do :


.............."Instructions for the New Reloader"

(1) By a reloading manual (preferably Lyman's Or Hornaday's)

(2) Read the reloading instructions (ALL of them)

(3) repeat step (2) until understanding sets in..

(4) after step (3) is completed, THEN purchase equipment.....


all you really need is a decent manual scale (rcbs 10-05 or better), A press, a powder measure, a trickler, a decent caliper, a deburring tool, a case mouth chamferer, some case lube, (a case lube pad is nice), an inside neck brush to lube the necks, dies, bullets, powder, primers, and some brass (it would be good if the brass was the same caliber as your rifle), and you could get started.....most of these things will be found ina "Kit" from most of the major manufacturers ....the best buy would be used on e-bay, and if your worried about it, it's pretty hard to hurt reloading equipment unless you work at it......just type in "rcbs" and start slobbering...... :)

P.S. the only dumb question is the one you didn't ask..... ASK ! it's better than getting hurt.....

If I had it to do all over again this is what I would do :


.............."Instructions for the New Reloader"

(1) By a reloading manual (preferably Lyman's Or Hornaday's)

(2) Read the reloading instructions (ALL of them)

(3) repeat step (2) until understanding sets in..

(4) after step (3) is completed, THEN purchase equipment.....


all you really need is a decent manual scale (rcbs 10-05 or better), A press, a powder measure, a trickler, a decent caliper, a deburring tool, a case mouth chamferer, some case lube, (a case lube pad is nice), an inside neck brush to lube the necks, dies, bullets, powder, primers, and some brass (it would be good if the brass was the same caliber as your rifle), and you could get started.....most of these things will be found ina "Kit" from most of the major manufacturers ....the best buy would be used on e-bay, and if your worried about it, it's pretty hard to hurt reloading equipment unless you work at it......just type in "rcbs" and start slobbering...... :)

P.S. the only dumb question is the one you didn't ask..... ASK ! it's better than getting hurt.....



You have to be careful on EBay . If you do not know prices , a lot of the stuff is priced around new . Sometimes higher .

Compare prices with , say , midwayusa.com .

God bless
Wyr

The sale price of used equipment, especially die sets, on FleaBay exceeds the price of new reloading equipment in stock at our local Cabela's and Bass Pro. Shipping and postage add an additional 10 to 20 percent.
Most spread in prices seems to be - surprise - 9mm, and .223, which are not in stock anywhere I've looked in DFW.
Does anyone have a why on this? Is RCBS as far behind as Rock River?

Well boys, that all depends on if you can get a good buy at an Auction.... many times I have beaten the retail price resoundingly, and the piece was like new, so I guess it all depends on where you quit bidding......I will not deal with the vendors on there that don't have a good feedback rating, and I think that helps some, and I try hard to fine the items that I need that are advertised "As new Condition" or something like that.... and I'm patient...... or, trying to learn patience anyhow..... :)

I am puzzled about why you recomend a single stage press and LNL.or is you idea of a single different than mine.after 70 yrs I have definate ideas of what works best.mine may be different than others.please enlighten me.
I think the Lee turret press is the way to go.and I cant see spending for the LNL adapters.
I have 3 turrets and 2 1000s,green machine,RC,herter,bonanza,5 trulines,
and a modern bond.am I missing something here and all other sites.:rolleyes::D

I am puzzled about why you recomend a single stage press and LNL.or is you idea of a single different than mine.after 70 yrs I have definate ideas of what works best.mine may be different than others.please enlighten me.
I think the Lee turret press is the way to go.and I cant see spending for the LNL adapters.
I have 3 turrets and 2 1000s,green machine,RC,herter,bonanza,5 trulines,
and a modern bond.am I missing something here and all other sites.:rolleyes::D


I received the Lee Classic Cast Iron Turret for Christmas . I hace used it mostly for hand gun ammo , plus .45-70 . So far I really like it .

If you do not want auto-index , just remove the shaft that rotates the turret & you can use it as a single stage press .

Lee has seconds - turrets for $ 9.00 each . I do not know how this compares to the LNL adapters ?

Sooner or latter I plan to try it on .223 , .7.62 NATO & .30-06 .


God bless
Wyr