Hey guys, I'd like to get started in reloading. But I don't know where to start or even what questions to ask. I guess I'll start with what I'm loading and go from there. I would be reloading .40s&w, 270win, 7.62x54r, and 30-06. I don't have a big budget and would like to get enough to get me started. Where should I begin?

Everyone here recommends the Lyman Reloading Manual. I would also recommend Modern Reloading by Richard Lee especially if you end up buying Lee Presision eqipment. Many here recommed a Lee reloading "Kit" to start. Many (myself included) recommend both the Lee Classic Turret Press and the Lee Classic Cast single stage press. All the reloading brands are good. Welome to a fantastic hobby. It is useful and saves you $$$ at the sme time.

Hi there, the Lyman book will be your best bet. You might even consider the Lyman turret press too. I've got it as well as Redding's T7 turret press, its a little smaller and has a shorter stroke to it, and is ambidextrous (bet I butchered that spelling).
If your are close to the DFW area, you ought to stop by the Cabellas north of Ft Worth. Theres a feller that works in the reloading section that will show you all the different loading presses they've got and will make it easier for you to make your decision.
Another good choice is RCBS, you cant find a better bunch of folks to do business with. Products and service is first rate.
With all the items you'll be needing, be sure to get a set of calipers. A good scale to look at is the Lyman. I have both a Lyman and Redding scale and prefer the Lyman...it dampens, or settles much faster than the Redding.
I could go on and on. If there is anything in particular you are wanting to know just chime back in.
Good luck......especially finding components.

JR

Stick with the Dillon 550B. It will handle whichever caliber you are likely to load. Bite the bullet, so to speak, & lay out the bucks. They have a warranty that can't be beat & is well worth the investment.
I've had one for about 15 years & has been largely trouble free.

- You need manuals to calculate your loads. I believe, like someone said, to start with the Lyman and Lee.
- You need a press that holds the dies and leverages some force for the reloading operations. I have a Lee Breechlock Challenger. It works fine.
- You'll need dies - one set for each of the calibers you're loading. A full-length sizing die and a bullet seating die are minimum. I use the Lee collet neck-sizing die for cartridges fired from my rifles and I use the Lee factory crimp die on certain rounds.
- You'll need case preparation tools: primer pocket cleaner tool, case trimming and de-burring tools at a minimum. I use the Lee tools....again. They're fine.
- You'll need a scale. I use a Lee beam scale and a small, digital scale to weigh the charges.
- Then you'll need brass, primers, powders, bullets, and some ammo boxes.

A kit may be the way to go for you. I think all the makers offer them. I went with Lee and I haven;t owned any of the others, so I can;t compare them for you. I will say though, after having been around guns and ammo for more than 35 years...... you can pay a little or pay alot... either way you'll end up with the same result, dependant upon your dedication, attention to detail, and effort. I'm pretty certain about that. Having good results with shotshell reloading equipment many years ago, I went with the "pay a little" and would do so again...and again.

Hi WOLFEN:
This is my first posting/response in this forum as I just joined. Like you I’m a newbie and I have been doing research for the last 3-4 weeks. You will find out that you communicate with 100 reloaders and you will get 100 different answers, and they are all the right answers for different reasons.

I will be reloading for 3 pistol calibers (.38 SP, .357 Mag and 9MM) and 4 rifle calibers (.223, .35 Rem, .270 Win and .308 Win). There are differences between reloading pistol vs. rifle (i.e., amount of powder, necks vs. straight case, etc.) which require different dies to be used with the press. There are also differences on whether you will be reloading cases that you fired in your own gun vs. cases you bought from vendors (or picked up at the firing range).

What I have done is to get the Lee’s Modern Reloading manual as suggested by JMORTIMER as well as the old Basic Handloading book by George Nonte, both of which I’m still reading as I respond to your posting. I have also spend considerable time in the forums reading about reloading as well as finding where some short reloading videos are located.

The Lee website www.leeprecision.com/html/HelpVideos/video.html
and the Dillon website www.youtube.com/watch?v=VRZrbv_8kx4
have a few videos that you may find helpful.

After reading numerous posting from many reloaders (many with 20+ years of experience) I concluded that, for the most part, all vendors (RCBS, Lyman, Dillon, Lee, Redding) have good equipment. It appears that Lee equipment is look down because they are probably the cheapest of the bunch, yet many people would not have any other equipment.

I’m currently inclined to get the Lee Classic 4 Hole Turret Deluxe kit being sold by Cabela’s ($190). I’m considering starting with one pistol caliber and one rifle caliber so to the $190 above, I’ll be adding another $100-$150 for the dies (once I decide if I get the deluxe one or the regular ones – it does make a difference), extra turrets so that I can set the dies once, and forget about it, trimming tools (i.e. Lee Zip trim, cutter, chamfer, etc.).

To conclude there is no one easy answer. The more I read the more confusing it gets and the more questions I have. I’ll continue to do research for a few more weeks and then make my final decision. It is a fascinating ‘hobby’ that requires patience, attention to detail, and one that can save you money going forward, not to mention reducing exposure to shortage of ammo. I hope this response helped you some. Good luck!

A couple of manuals (Lyman, Speer, Hornady, or books listed above) will have sections explaining equip. needed and their uses. These are needed 1st and foremost. I would suggest loading 1 pistol caliber and several rifles that a single stage press be considered( save money and learn the process easier). For casual reloader one press is about as good as another. Take your time and ask many questions and the process will become easier and more enjoyable, leading to more shooting & reloading & possible addiction. At that point move to a progressive press, spend all your spare money and time, forget about mowing the yard, washing the car, or other chores, and enjoy your new hobby! P.S. if your wife doesn`t get to upset and use your reloads on you! Enjoy!!!

Well thanks guys, I think I'll go ahead and get a manual first either the Lyman 49th edition or Hodgdon 2009 Annual Reloading Manual maybe both. But I looked at what is available on Lee dies and I didn't see 7.62x54r. That is probably going to be the one I reload the most. I don't know if I missed it or if they don't make it, but it is going to be a big part of what I do. I have been looking at Lee anniversary or Lee classic turret press kits. I know that the turret would be faster but would the other be more accurate or is this not something that I should worry about right now.

Check out the Midway site and order their catalog. Dies are interchangeable between manufacturers (everybody's dies fit everybody's press), so caliber selection won't be an issue in picking a manufacturer.

I started out with a Lyman turret over 20 years ago and have never seen a need for any other. Lee makes good stuff too. If you live near a store that carries the equipment go look at a few.

With proper technique all the manufacturer's presses will make accurate ammo.

You won't be able to load everything you want without a Lyman 49th. It is especially good on cast bullet loads. Great reference.

I think you can shoot .308 winchester in lue of the 7.62 and Lee does have the dies for that case. However, I'm not sure if it depends on the weapon and/or the cartridge size (i.e. 7.62x51 or 7.62x54, etc). You should verify further.

Ok, so I have both the Lyman 49th and the Hodgdon annual manuals ordered. They should be here soon. And I checked around and found 7.62x54r dies. So I guess my next question is, is there any advantage with going with turret vs. single stage other than speed? Just to get started what are some of the basic tools I will need. I know I'll be getting a case tumbler, case trimmer and case prep tools, what else will I need? And on the tumbler which is better rotary or vibratory? And what should I get for cleaning media? Sorry to ask so many questions, y'all are the only people I know to ask.

I have a vibratory tumbler, and it's just great.....I use Lyman "Tough Nut" media, whis is ground nut shells with jewelers rouge in it, both cheap and good...the Frankford Arsenal stuff works just fine. one thing most newbies forget is an inside flash hole reamer..... I do this on all new brass, and I believe it makes a significant difference....also, run your new brass thru your sizing die ( you don't have to full-length size, just neck size ), then check it in the rifle, and then trim it for length...... this pretty much uniforms the cases to begin with..... just some random thots.....

Scale, either beam or digital that measure in grains, calipers for different measurements. Tumblers i`ve only had vibratory, can`t compare. Media, corn cob and walnut are most common, I use corn cob. Many opinions on what is best, get what is cheapest is my opin. The manuals will also tell what equip. you need. As for turret vs. single stage, IMO single stage is best to learn on. Whatever you get don`t try for speed until after you are well versed in the correct process! Take your time and double check each step to get it right. Also get a lube pad and case lube, primer flip tray. I`ll think of other things as soon as I leave. As for questions, keep asking. I wish I had these guys help when I started.

Well how accurate are the turret styles? I would rather it be precise than fast. I was mostly looking at the ease of use. The turret's operation looks much less complicated than single stage, but if single stage is more accurate I may go with that.

It's the single stage that is the simpler tool, with fewer parts than the turret style. The single stage has only one position to attach a die. The turret has a rotating tool head with multiple positions for a die set. Many reloaders believe the single stage produces more uniform ammunition since the alignment between the die and shellholder is fixed but it is also slower to use. With a turret, the tool head may or may not be subject to small alignment errors as the head is rotated to other die positions. If production is a big factor with you, go with either a turret or progressive tool. Hope this helps in explaining the difference.

Number production isn't an issue. I believe in quality and consistency over shear numbers. As long as I can produce at least 100 rounds a week, for each of my calibers, I'll be happy. And I have plenty of spare time.

You answered your own question - get a single stage press. Start there and move on later if you so desire. I wish the Lee Breech Lock was available when I got my single stage as you put the dies in a "ring" that you can snap in and out so you do not have to set up the dies again and again.

So would the Breech lock be better than the anniversary kit?

I would like to have the Breech Lock feature. I bought a Lee "Kit" and I am happy with it but it is 'Pre-Breech Lock - and fortunately for you the Lee 50th Anniversary Kit comes with the Breech Lock Challenger Press. I would get the Lee Auto Prime which is a hand held priming tool and seems to be loved by (most) everyone. I also use the Lee Powder Dippers and charge by volume. Go to Midway and read the reviews on the items you are interested in - I think the reviews are very useful. That will tell you what you need to know about each item even if you purchase from another source.

Powder Dippers? Are those the measuring spoons I've seen?

Yes - Lee Improved Powder Measure Kit ($8.29) . You can fashion them out of bullet cases. They can be modified to a different volume by grinding them down to reduce volume. . Again, I would read product reviews on Midway USA for each item you are interested in buying. There are 32 reviews for the Powder Measure Kit and it rates 4.7 stars out of 5 stars. You will see that there are many who love the powder measures like I do. Simple, accurate, and cheap. What could be better.

I'm going to throw my 2 cents in here. For those who think they will continue in the reloading hobby I am of the opinion it is best to start with a press that will not end up being upgraded to something better later on. I learned this by experience and have used (& later sold) many mostly good to very good presses. Of all the single stage presses I've used, the Forester Co-Ax is the best of the crop and @ ~ $200 on sale is not out of reason for most folks. I like single stage loading but do most of my pistol stuff on a Dillon which is also worth every penny I spent on it. The Co-Ax is truly a wonderful piece of machinery and so very easy to use. Must admit I was somewhat skeptical before buying it, even after reading much praise from others regarding its qualities. Now I'm just glad I overcame my skeptiscm. After having used one for a few years now it just keeps getting better. Nothing is perfect but the Co-Ax is close.

Is loading my volume more accurate than by weight? If so, then what use is a power scale?

Safety, Safety, Safety. I edited my reply above because more accurate is wrong. I will say it is easy and safe if done properly. You always need to check your powder at least once on the first load to ensure the load is safe. Manufacturers have mislabeled powder canisters with the wrong powder. There may be a manufacturing defect. You may dump the wrong powder back in a canister. Weighing the powder charge is an additional safety measure. More "accurate" is the wrong way to describe it. Charging by volume is safe and easy if you know what powder you are using. Read the reviews on Midway USA for each product you buy and you will learn a lot. More experienced reloaders could tell you more. I found this explaination:
Why are Black Powder and Smokeless Powder Measured in Different Manners?
Different Powders are Measured Differently. Why, and how?
By Russ Chastain, About.com
Note: The term smokeless powder does not refer to black powder substitutes such as Pyrodex, Triple Seven, Clear Shot, and so on, but to modern propellants meant for use only in modern firearms intended for its use. For information on how to measure a black powder substitute, contact the manufacturer of the propellant in question.
Some folks wonder why black powder is not metered the same way that smokeless powder is. To further confuse the issue, both measurements are quantified using the same unit of measurement (grains), even though the measurement processes are quite different. Here is some information which may help clear up the confusion about measuring different kinds of powder.

Both black powder and smokeless powder are measured in grains - but black powder is measured by volume, and smokeless is measured by weight.

The reason is that black powder is a simple chemical compound (made of sulphur, charcoal, and saltpeter) of a given grain size (Fg, FFg, FFFg, etc), and can be relied upon to produce consistent loads when measured by volume. A volumetric measure (one small scoop, for instance) of FFg black powder can be expected to contain the same amount of powder - therefore the same explosive potential - time and time again.

Smokeless powder, on the other hand, is made in many variations - and the little particles of powder are made in many different shapes and sizes. One type of smokeless powder will be composed of small short cylinders, and another type made of tiny grains resembling grains of sand.

Being composed of differently-shaped particles would be enough to cause volume to be an unreliable measure of smokeless powder, but besides that reason there's also the fact that each type of smokeless powder is chemically different from the other - so a pinch of one vs. a pinch of another will not produce the same pressures and burning characteristics... even if each pinch weighed the same.

Now, all that said, smokeless powder CAN be measured by volume - if it's done very carefully and attentively, with a guide to follow. Lee Precision makes low-priced powder scoops for precisely this purpose. One must pay very close attention when using these scoops, because a scoop of one type of smokeless powder will not weigh the same as a scoop of another type.

It's best to weigh several scoops of a given powder to ensure that the weight each scoop contains matches your reference chart, and to ensure that you are getting consistent charges from scoop to scoop.

Here it is from Richard Lee:
- "In the 44 years of selling reloading tools with smokeless powder dippers, we have never heard of an accident because of an overcharge of the powder specified... Dippers are inherently safe. They have fixed capacity that cannot get out of adjustment... Even if you grossly misuse a dipper by heaping it, the charge will be only 7 to 12 percent too much. The percentage depends upon the powder type. If you started 10% under maximum, you are probably safe with a modestly heaped charge." - Richard Lee, Modern Reloading, 2nd Edition, 2003, reprint 2007, pg. 90

So basically, its a way to double check and make sure your getting the right amount of powder. Right?

Right. What ever powder measure you use you need to weigh the charge to check how much powder is going into the case. Just to sound like a "broken record" go to Midway USA and read all the reviews of the products you are considering and you will learn a lot. Here is what I like about the powder dipper, I reload .45 Colt and .38 Special and I use Unique powder. Ther is one scoop that hold 9.4 grains of Unique for my .45 loads and another that holds 4.6 grains of Unique for the .38 Special. I just put a Lee Universal Powder Funnel on the die and dump in one scoop. No need to mess around with any other equipment. No need to calibrate a powder measure. I already weighed the loads when I got my powder canister so I never have to break out a scale until I buy a new canister of powder. If you read the reviews you will understand what I am talking about. I like the KISS system- Keep It Simple Stupid for myself.

Well that makes good sense. Alright so I guess I'll be adding a set of powder dippers and a funnel to my list. Man I'm glad I found this forum. I'd hate to have to figure this out on my own. That's the only reason I didn't get into reloading sooner. Thanks. Oh something I forgot to ask was about bullet pullers. Are there dies that fit the Lee breech lock press or do I have to get an impact puller?

The Lee Anniversary Kit comes with a primer attachment to the press. Then, the press does the priming of the case.
With the Lee Breechlock Challenger Kit (NOT the Anniversay), the only difference is it comes with the Auto Prime, which is a hand primer. You load the primer tray, shake to get them oriented up, then put the lid on. Priming is then done by hand. THat's the one I have and I like it. I can also prime on the press, but it's hard to tell when the primer is seated and too easy to apply too much force and, maybe, crush the primer inside the pocket.

I bought a set of Lee dippers. Now, I find I don;t use them at all. With Lee's Powder Dispenser, I just dump a load into an empty case, pour that in the scale pan, and weigh it. THe first couple of loads get dumped into the powder trickler (you might look at the RCBS trickler) until I get the Powder Dispenser set correctly. Then, each one still gets weighed and trickled up to weight before going back into the case to be ready for a bullet.

My advice on accessories is:
- powder trickler (lyman's is nice, but too light. THe RCBS is cast and nice and heavy)
- extra case trimmer
- automotive funnel (small with a large mouth) to pour your powder back into your kegs when finished with a batch. This is especially helpful with Alliant's tall powder kegs - their mouth is smaller than IMR and Hodgdon kegs
- extra bore brushes (to clean the inside of the case neck before sizing or tumbling)
- extra die adaptors (for the breechlock press) so all your dies have an adapter installed on them (KempfGunSHop has them in a 2-pack for about $8. THey also have the Lee presses and Kits cheaper than anyone else I've found)
- small digital scale to check against your Lee beam scale (though I doubt ANY of them will approach its 1/20 grain accuracy). I've used the MTM and the Hornady GS-1500, both about $30. I like the Hornady.
- A dial or digital caliper. I have a $30 SMIEC chinese-made (ugh) dial caliper. It works fine for me, but I've read on here that most like the digital ones.
- Some loading blocks or make your own with a drill press, 1/2" bit, and some 3/4" MDF. Loading blocks are indispensible in my opinion.
- Some J&J, MTM, or other US made plastick ammo cases. I like the ones that hold fifty rounds. Get the right sizes for your calibers.
- Cordless drill. Aside from usefulness in the shop (you probably already have one), it's indespensible when trimming, deburring, and shining tumbled cases.

Those are the accesories I would recommend.

Also, I don;t think Lee makes a "bullet puller" die, but I could be wrong. I bought a Frankford Arsenol one for about $12, I think it was. I've only had to pull about 8 bullets since I started reloading in late December.

I would suggest checking a few gun shops for bargains on used reloading equipment. The shops I frequent often have reloading presses for a fraction of the new cost. Various brands of reloading dies are in the $10 to $15 range along with other reloading accessories. You have to examine what is available, but there are some real bargains around. Take care...
Oberndorf

I have a vibratory cleaner and love it.

I also have a Lyman turret, and prefer it to the single stage because I can have 6 dies set up at once -- I usually have a 4 die 357 magnum set, which leaves room for two others.... Just save time not having to reset dies. I gather the new single stage lock and load set up is another answer for that.

The Lyman turret is blacksmith simple. The turrets that can rotate like a progressive are a little more complex. There is nothing wrong with the single stages if you don't mind changing out the dies every 50 or 100 rounds.

The beauty of the Lee Breachlock setup is: they have the die adapters that screw onto each die. Once you adjust the die with the adapter on it, you don;t have to adjust it ever again (unless you want to tweak it as time goes by). Then you just pop your dies in and out with a slight, 1/4 turn to lock the die in each time you change dies.

I like to reload this way:
- If I have say 50 30-06 cases, I'll neck-size them all with the Collet Die installed. Then I'll trim to length, debur and clean them in the tumbler.
- Then I'll prime them with the Auto Prime (hand primer) after I've decided which cases will get which primers and what loads;
- Then I'll pop out the collet die and pop in the bullet seating die;
- Once the cases are charged with powder, the bullets will be put in with the bullet seater;
- Done.

The pop-in die adapters make smooth work of changing out dies and the adjustment never changes (unless you change it)

Well, I don't know what else to ask. Y'all have been a lot of help. I have a couple of manuals coming in this week so I'll have something to read. So, once I get those in I may have more questions for y'all. Oh, and I think I'll be getting the Lee Anniversary Kit. It may take longer and have more steps but you have to start somewhere. And besides, its a hobby, its suppose to take a long time.

Wolfen - persevere with the reloading. It's a great hobby and so satisfying - I absolutely love it!! I mentioned it on another post but I'm now getting my shot from www.steel-shot.com It's really nice shot and pretty cheap. Email address if you want it: stephen@steel-shot.com I usually drop them a line with my order. Hope this helps