I am having a lot of trouble with case's getting stuck in resizer. Rifle- Rem, 300 ULTRA MAG. I use a good lube and thay still stick, holder will pull head off--- WHATS WRONG WITH THE DIE, AND WHAT'S A EASY WAY TO REMOVE CASE FROM DIE???

There's lots of advice in this Thread:
http://www.shootersforum.com/showthread.htm?t=35136

Which case lube are you using? Your resizing die could be a bit rough.

Bye
Jack

I am having a lot of trouble with case's getting stuck in resizer. Rifle- Rem, 300 ULTRA MAG. I use a good lube and thay still stick, holder will pull head off--- WHATS WRONG WITH THE DIE, AND WHAT'S A EASY WAY TO REMOVE CASE FROM DIE???


The easy way to remove a stuck case is with a stuck case remover. RCBS sells one, just follow the instructions.

Actually that is the third easiest way. The easiest is to not get them stuck in the first place. It doesn't matter which or how good a lube you are using if you don't use enough.

The second easiest is send it back to the manufacturer and they will remove it for you. They usually don't charge much if anything. The problem here is postage and time.

In 50 years of loading several hundred-thousand rounds, very possibly over 1 million, I have stuck exactly ONE case, and I knew I was pushing my luck with that one and got caught. You can use any of the loading tool manufacturers lubes, anhydrous lanolin, Imperial Sizing Die Wax, even automatic transmission fluid, vaseline, cream hair tonics like Wildroot or Vaseline, or even Crisco. I have used most of these at one time or another over the years aand never have stuck any but the one I almost expected to. I am not exaggerating a bit. Use enough lube and you will not stick cases.

So far as what is wrong with your die? Unless it has been damaged or allowed to rust inside the greatest likelyhood is that there isn't anything wrong with it that using enough lubricant fix.

If I was loading for one chamber and had a problem with pulling case heads off I would wonder how close the head was to separating from the case body before I sized it. I stick cases, I try different lubes, I try to determine the number of cases I can size without lubing after lubing one case, and I make stuck case removal tools.

A good case will pull from the shell holder in one piece when the ram lowers, deliberate? If I know I stuck the case I will rotate the shell holder and remove it from the stuck case and ram at the same time, If I suspect a case is close to case head separation I will size it without lube, if the case stays together and pulls out of the shell holder I was wrong.

I clean dies with a towel on a dowel, some use brake clean, copper solvent #9 and they use a de-glazier (cylinder hone) on cylinders, I don't, the glass finish is as good as it gets, but, I do want a go-rillo grip finish on the chamber, that cuts down on case travel.

A case head should not separate when the ram is lowered, when a case sticks rotate the shell holder then remove it from the ram and shell at the same time, I remove the shell holder with the stuck case from the press and invert it then screw it in from the bottom and secure with the lock nut, this allows me a way to hold the die securely, I have experience with stuck cases.

A collector/reloader sent me a RCBS die with a case stuck in it, the die belong to his dad, he took some bad advice on cleaning and then stuck the first case, the problem now? he does not trust the die. After removing the stuck case I road tested the die, I stuck 2 of the first 5 cases, I then lubed and resized 40 full length sized cases, then went back to sizing fired cases, I sent the die back to PA with the instructions, if you want to clean your sizer dies, clean them with a towel on a dowel.

F. Guffey

Just a minute here. Are you pulling the rim off or pulling the bottom 3/8 inch of the case off?
In other words the whole case head. If you're pulling the case head off the case is at the end of it's useful and safe life.

There's advice on polishing dies in this thread. If your cases look a little rougher after sizing polish the die. What make of die is it?
http://www.shootersforum.com/showthread.htm?t=57266

Bye
Jack

after I invert the die with the stuck case I drill the primer pocket/flash hole, I then thread the hole with a coarse thread, I use a 1/2 inch nut that sits on the die and clears the case head, then I place a heavy washer on the 1/2 nut (bridge) then place a but on the bolt that matches the threads in the head of the case, then screw the bolt into the case head then with two wrenches, one to hold the bolt, the other to turn the nut down against the washer, this pulls the case, most use the bolt through a threaded hole in the puller, I do not want to rotate the case or hit the primer punch/sizer ball assembly, and my puller(s) is free.

If you have pulled the case head" that is different, (some) taps come in sets, a bottom tap, starter and blind end, I use a starter tap, that is one that does not make a full cut until it has make from 7 to 10 turns, then grind a bolt to match and install it on the end of a slide hammer, tools for removing cases that have separated are available from Brownell's.

F. GUffey

"holder will pull head off---" Pull off of head? It does not matter if he picked up glue or lube, the shell holder should jump the extractor groove, if he was using Lee shell holders there is a remote chance he would pull the top of the shell holder off, or with a good case and one of my old shell holders the die case and press would still be stuck in one piece.

F. Guffey
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F. Guffey
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Makes sense I guess.

The only two cases I've ever stuck both had their rims pulled off by the shell holder and both, when drilled and tapped for RCBS stuck case pullers, pulled the tapped threads out, leaving the case behind, still stuck. One was a Redding .308 die an the other was a Dillon .223 carbide rifle die. Good dies with good surface finishes and both stuck badly. A long soak in copper solvent was the only solution I found for them (and I am talking about three months here). Had I known better at the time, I would have used the freezing technique before attempting to pull hard, even with the shell holder.

I now apply a permanent lube to the insides of all my steel dies as added insurance against a lubrication mistake. 72 hours in Sprinco Plate+ silver and wipe dry. Haven't stuck one since, though I like to think I am more conscious of double-checking lube application than I once was. No clue how many rounds I've loaded over the years, but the majority will have been pistol with carbide rings, where sticking isn't a possibility anyway. I may just have to allow that I belong to a school of absent-minded lubers.:(

It's been some years since i last stuck one (wood has been knocked on). The RCBS kit worked as advertized. I didn't know of Kroil back then. I wonder if it would help? Maybe tap the case out with the de-cap assembly after a soak in the stuff?

Cheezywan

Put the die in your press upside down, or a padded vise, clamp a pair of vise grips on the case and give it a twist the case will come loose. Unthread the decapper, cut the case with a tubing cutter to remove the rest.

"I use a good lube and thay still stick, holder will pull head off--- WHATS WRONG WITH THE DIE, AND WHAT'S A EASY WAY TO REMOVE CASE FROM DIE???"

I suspect the die is fine. You don't say what your "good lube" is but my guess is it's a spray type.

Anyway, what you're doing wrong is not putting enough of a good lube on the lower portion of the cases, that's where they stick.

Further thought on spray lubes - you have to wait for the carrier to evaporate, or they don't work. Just a general tip.

I've had two stuck cases. When I started reloaded, I didnt lube the inside of the neck on the .325 WSM, and it pulled the decapper out. Then I was loading 22-250's and forgot to change the shell holder from the .532" holder for my mags.

I bought some stuff called "Rooster" spray case lube from Midway. It has a very intense smell, kind of like DEET bug spray. It's a pump bottle, and it is easily the best lube I've used if you judge it solely on ease of sizing. The cases glide in with half the force of any other lube. But, they are rather sticky when done, and need a corn-cob tumble rather than a wipe when you're done.

You should scroll down to the bottom of this page to the "Similar Threads" portion and click on the previous thread on this concern.