Newbie here to forum.

I have a Marlin 336C coming in a few weeks. Does anybody have any comments to help me with when I pick it up? I mean is there anything to notice or look for when examining the rifle before I pay for it?

Also what Ammo do you recommend----For break in and target.
I have been reading about the NEW Horandy Lever ammo 30-30. Is it worth it? Also Remington has a rebate of 2.50 a box with a max of 5.00 on their 30-30 Corelok.

Any ammo to stay away from?

Thanks for any help!!!

stash

Every new Marlin levergun I've bought, since 1967, needed two things: a thorough cleaning, and an internal smoothing/deburring.

The deburring/etc wasn't done at the factory, I would presume to keep costs reasonable, and not price themselves out of the market as some other companies appeared to have done.

They're excellent rifles, and only need minimal work and possibly a sight upgrade to go hunting.

After reading the owner's manual, included with every new rifle, follow it's instructions for removing the bolt to give it a perfunctory cleaning.

Then, before shooting/using one, I would lube the internals generously, and cycle the action rapidly a few hundred times, while watching TV one evening, whatever.

Reclean/flush the action, lightly relube it, and you should be good to go except for any sighting upgrades you may/may not want to do.

Receiver peep sights will mount in the two rear scope mount holes atop the receiver.
Wlliams makes two receiver peeps that sit low enough to use the issue height front sight to zero the rifle, because they overhang the left receiver wall - the 5D and the FP.
Skinner makes one - their LoPro, but since it's not adj for windage, the front sight must take up that chore.
All other top-mount peeps are higher, requiring a higher than issue front sight, including the Williams WGRS, the XS, and the Skinner.
All require rear barrel sight removal, and replacement with a dovetail filler blank, so a clear sight picture may be had.

The most common scope bases are Weaver, and XS makes a Weaver-type base which anchors in the rear sight dovetail to carry a pistol or scout scope in a forward position, which some users like, YMMV, for sure.

You can't go wrong with just about any commercial .30-30 loading - I generally buy whatever the least expensive.
After you get into it for awhile, you might want to try to handload for it, which can make it more flexible - especially with cast boolits.

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The only thing I would add to the good advise of the previous poster, is that if you remove the bolt, watch the ejector spring. It will likely come out and you need, not only to keep track of it, but also to correctly reinsert when replacing the lever. It helps a lot to open the lever just to about 45 degrees initially, remove the lever screw and slide the lever out. Then you can reach in the action and get the ejector spring and put it aside. The bolt can then be removed and the bore cleaned similarly to a bolt action. Just reverse these steps to reassemble.

Thank you both for your comments and help!

stashu

I agree with everything posted before, and to add to it;

Before you pay for it:
Look carefully at the wood to metal joints, they should be uniform, no gaps or huge overhangs. Look at the wood so you don't get a Marlin with a really weird stock color like I did :rolleyes:. Look at the metal closely for rust or finishing errors. Make sure the action works without binding and fairly smoothly. Cock the hammer by hand and make sure it does not bind or wiggle excessively. It IS normal for the trigger to "flop" around on a Marlin, especially when it is not cocked.

After you bring it home:
Check all the screws with a properly fitting screwdriver. Ensure the safety moves smoothly, on my 1895 GS the set screw that secures the safety moved and "locked" the safety in the fire position. Get used to handling it safely before you load and shoot it. Put the safety on "SAFE" to load and unload (if it is there, why not use it?) If you want to mount a scope in the traditional spot (not a "scout scope") I recommend the Leupold one-piece mount. The Weaver mount tends to have the scope too far to the rear. I bought a Weaver first, then ended up getting a Leupold, do yourself a favor and just get the Leupold mount (it uses Weaver style rings).

When you shoot it:
You will be very very happy.

Like Rangr44 said, any of the commercial 30-30 is good, they have had a long time to perfect it. The 30-30 is also very easy to hand load.

Andy

These guys have you covered pretty well with good advie. I tested a lot of ammo in my lever- a B92. Hornady Lever Revoultion would be the first thing I would try in any new lever action. Mine loves it and is what I will be sticking with from here on out.

Thanks again to all for your info. This is my first lever and I still cannot fathom why the rounds don't always go off in the tube more often . I mean the rounds are resting against each others primer. To add more the Hornady are even more pointed making me think even they would go off more. Strange.

stashu