I need some advice on a firstime project. I have a barreled action, a laminated stock from Boyds and a bedding kit from, Brownels. I attempted to dry fit the action and stock, and could not get the rear action screw to line up. I t appears as though I need to remove some wood from the barrrel channel. Any tips or hints that would prevent me from turning this project into an expensive boat anchor would be appreciated.

Hmmmm...........

Rear tang screw holes won't line up?

Does the recoil lug seat properly in the recess cut for it? Does the barrel and action seem to snuggle down in the stock squarely?

It could be the inletting for either the tang or the trigger guard isn't cut properly. If they seem to fit OK in the stock, perhaps you need to get a round rasp and slightly enlarge the screw hole in the stock. You don't want the rear screw in contact with the stock in any fashion.

Hmmmm...........

Rear tang screw holes won't line up?

Does the recoil lug seat properly in the recess cut for it? Does the barrel and action seem to snuggle down in the stock squarely?

It could be the inletting for either the tang or the trigger guard isn't cut properly. If they seem to fit OK in the stock, perhaps you need to get a round rasp and slightly enlarge the screw hole in the stock. You don't want the rear screw in contact with the stock in any fashion.

The recoil lug seats ok, as well as the tang and the trigger guard, but there is about a 3/4" gap between the barrel and the bottom of the channel. It's a Adams and Bennet standard contour barrel, but it appears that it's a bit to much barrel diameter towards the end of the barrel channel. Just wanted to make sure of the correct thing to do before doing something stupid

If the barrel doesn't fit down in the forearm channel, then by all means, rasp it down until it drops in and try to acheive a dollar bill clearance from tip to receiver ring to free float it.

When you draw up the action screws, run them in until just snug, then rap the butt pad on the floor a couple of firm taps, then tighten the screws to a hand firm (but not squeeky) tight with a normal screw driver or allan wrench, whichever your screws are.

If the groups aren't what you want, loosen the screws, insert a business card shim at the forearm tip, tighten the screws again and see if a little upward pressure will help.

If the barrel doesn't fit down in the forearm channel, then by all means, rasp it down until it drops in and try to acheive a dollar bill clearance from tip to receiver ring to free float it.

When you draw up the action screws, run them in until just snug, then rap the butt pad on the floor a couple of firm taps, then tighten the screws to a hand firm (but not squeeky) tight with a normal screw driver or allan wrench, whichever your screws are.

If the groups aren't what you want, loosen the screws, insert a business card shim at the forearm tip, tighten the screws again and see if a little upward pressure will help.

Thanks again

Mark, If your are going to glass bed the barreled action in the stock then you need to open up the channel more than the fit of a doller bill. The more glass bedding that you have under the barrel the stronger the bedding will be. The bedding will make a mirror image of the barrel and will fill in the void if you place enough bedding material in the channel, and make sure that you use plenty of mold release!! Follow the directions in the box to the letter. If you make a mistake you may not be able to remove the barreled action out of the stock with out a hole lot of trouble. Make you a knife out of a piece of plexy glass,this won't scratch the finish of the barrel, use this to remove the excesst that will come out of the channel when you tighten up the action to the wood. Wait for a while and the bedding will go from sticky to like "taffy" then just cut it away. Also get you need to make sure that the action is inletted all the way to the bottom of the stock and bearing at all points in the wood. Good luck. Bobby

there are several "levels" of bedding. the most common is just the action with attention paid to the recoil lug and tang. some people will also glass 2"or so of the barrel under the chamber.some people glass the full length of the barrel, not very common anymore, most shoot best with the barrel floated, and maybe a pressure point at the end of the barrel channel.
if the chamber area is "cyllinder" and not tapered. i'll sometimes do the 2" foreward of the action, but i usually bed the action only.

monty