Hi everybody, this is my first posting. I just bought a model 92, in 25-20, and it is really a nice rifle with the exection of the lever. Someone polished it, so now it does not match the rest of the gun. The gun is mostly brown with no bluing. It has an excellent bore and wood for being made in 1895. I`ve been searching for a lever to match it, but it`s next to impossible to find one. I`m tempted to fire it, but i`m not sure yet. Anybody who can give me advice, i`m defintly ready to hear from you. Thanks Chuckinator

Hi everybody, this is my first posting. I just bought a model 92, in 25-20, and it is really a nice rifle with the exection of the lever. Someone polished it, so now it does not match the rest of the gun. The gun is mostly brown with no bluing. It has an excellent bore and wood for being made in 1895. I`ve been searching for a lever to match it, but it`s next to impossible to find one. I`m tempted to fire it, but i`m not sure yet. Anybody who can give me advice, i`m defintly ready to hear from you. Thanks Chuckinator

Try brownells, and get some of their plumb brown browning solution, and follow the directions. Your lever may end up too dark, or too light. If too light, make another application. If too dark, just use 0004 steel wool and oil till it matches the rest of your rifle., or you could use a mixture of 2 oz nitric acid, 2 oz muratic acid. (mix muratic into nitric) then disolve iron filings or iron nails (not steel), as much as will disolve into the mix. Strain,and add 1 quart distilled water. Do all your mixing outside in stoneware. as the chemicals provide a lot of heat, and fumes. To use, degrease the part and warm it as hot as you can handle. Apply solution to part ans let sit over night. It will have a coat of rust. use a fine wire brush to card off the rust, and apply another coat of solution. When storing over night it is best to have a bit of humidity, as this helps the rusting process. Keep making coats of soulition untill the desired results are obtained, rinse between coats with boiling water and dry. use 0000 steel wool and oil on part. I've been using this solution for more than 45 years, and have never had a complaint with the results. Copper sulfate can be added to the solution, and a little finer finish is obtained. (MAKE SURE TO WEAR RUBBER GLOVES WHEN HANDLING THIS SOLUTION) Keep all oil away from parts while browning them.(While carding the rust wear cotton gloves.)

M1894

Thanks alot m1894, that`s an ingenious idea. I never thought of fooloing with the lever that`s on the gun. I was bent on getting another lever. I will have to try that.

Thanks alot m1894, that`s an ingenious idea. I never thought of fooloing with the lever that`s on the gun. I was bent on getting another lever. I will have to try that.
I've rebuilt almost all of my 27 Marlin square bolts that way. It's a lot of work when doing octagon barrels, as they have to be draw filed real carefully, so as not to remove factory markings, or change any angles. Remember when doing the lever, don't change any of the angles of contact. There is also another way to color the lever, and that just means that you only have to polish the lever, and use the oven set at 400 degrees, but you have to be careful about watching the colors form, and get the part into oil in order to stop the color change. You can get a real nice bronze to peacock blue this way.( Do not use this method on tempered parts!) It usualy takes from 30 min. to an hour.

M1894