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  #1  
Old 04-04-2005, 05:29 PM
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1895 trigger job?


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Hey yall,
I was just curious how much it cost for you to get a gunsmith to do lighten the trigger pull on your 1895? And is this better than the WWG happy trigger?
thanks, John
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  #2  
Old 04-05-2005, 11:40 AM
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txpilot,

IMHO a trigger job could be done to your specifications by a good gunsmith for $50-$60. The WWG trigger is a lot more expensive and you do not know where your trigger pull will end up. I have had two of the WWG triggers and they are great but I still had to do some work on one rifle to get the trigger pull down to where I wanted it to be as the origional pull was well over 8#. That was before I learned how to work on my own Marlin triggers. In fact, I took the WWG trigger out of that rifle and sold it (the trigger).

I am definitely not knocking the WWG trigger as they certainly do work and i have read a slew of good reports about them.

Maybe someone else will chime in on this.

Dave
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Old 04-05-2005, 02:28 PM
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VTDW is right dig in and try it you will probably like the fact that you done it your self. However if you do not feel confident in doing this task, don't as trigger work can also be dangerous.
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Old 04-08-2005, 03:28 AM
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VTDW - Do you mean you had a WW trigger w/ 8# pull? I've never heard of one over 3#. Maybe I read you wrong.
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Old 04-08-2005, 05:07 AM
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MAINER,

Sorry, but I sometimes get in a hurry with my words. No, the WWG trigger was not 8#. The factory trigger was over 8#.

One of the fellas that works for me brought in a trigger pull scale that topped out at 8#. We tried it several times and it always topped out max way before the trigger would pull. I know it was a very bad trigger from the factory because the WW trigger reduced the pull but not nearly enough for that particular rifle. I read a lot about most Marlins having a very heavy trigger from the factory. Most but not all. I am pretty sure my experiences was unique as every report I read says the the WW trigger is great. I think so as well but just had a very lousy trigger and seer to work with. Say I purchase another Marlin with a heavy trigger pull, but not of the over 8# variety; I would not hesitate to purchase the WW trigger if I didn't have the time or inclination to do the job myself.

Dave

Last edited by VTDW; 04-08-2005 at 05:14 AM.
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  #6  
Old 04-14-2005, 08:42 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by VTDW
MAINER,

Sorry, but I sometimes get in a hurry with my words. No, the WWG trigger was not 8#. The factory trigger was over 8#.
Dave -
My Marlin 375 was the same way - very heavy trigger. I replaced ti with a WWG and the result was a dramatic improvement.

Since then I have started working my own triggers. I don't have a trigger pull gage, but the WWG in the 375 is still one of the lightest and smoothest I own.
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  #7  
Old 11-11-2005, 12:36 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by txpilot
Hey yall,
I was just curious how much it cost for you to get a gunsmith to do lighten the trigger pull on your 1895? And is this better than the WWG happy trigger?
thanks, John
The WWG I put in my 1895GS has a pull of around 2.5# - and is very smooth. It's not as good as the VERY sweet accu-trigger that came from the factory on my Savage, but few triggers are...
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Old 11-11-2005, 01:04 PM
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I've got a 1949 336Rc in 30-30 that I just reworked action and trigger, the trigger pull breaks at 24oz. This gun is going to be a cast bullet shooter and will have many mods done in the future. One is getting rid of the bbl bands, 16 1/4 bbl, modified lever loop. But that's a ways off, when I retire next May 1st. Triggers when you understand them are easy to lighten up.
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  #9  
Old 11-13-2005, 09:53 AM
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Working on these trigger/sear combos is rather easy. A very simple system. My sear had a groove cut in it and the trigger was catching that. It took about 5 lbs to break, but was very crisp. Worked the groove out of it and was down to about 3.5. Wanted just a hair less so polished with Arkansas stones and it breaks at ~2 lbs now. Also had to "narrow" the sear on the hammer to reduce the creep after the groove was removed.

Just don't get carried away. Go lightly. The sear on the hammer determines the height at which the hammer contacts the bolt for cocking during the last half of the cycle. If you take too much sear off, the hammer can rotate a little much on the return trip and the bolt will catch it and get locked up. Until I get a new hammer to rework, a hammer extension lets the bolt ride over the hammer.

The notch in the hammer sear caused me to have to remove a little too much material to remove it.
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