On a previous date I had posted regarding sizing and lubing boolits. I need some further advice. I tested some of the boolits in question. They were cast using a 50 / 50 (give or take a little) alloy of wheel weights and soft lead. I used a Lyman 429421 mould. The boolits were run through a .430 sizing die. I barely touched any part of the boolits. I put lube in the lube grooves, but also smeared some on the sides of the boolits. I loaded the boolits in new Starline .44 special cases and used Winchester large pistol primers and 7.0 grains of Unique powder. I crimped using a Lee factory crimp die.

I fired 30 rounds and chronographed them. The average velocity with my Ruger Blackhawk and 4 5/8" barrel was 917 fps. I had leading in the rear half of the barrel. The boolits appeared to be trying to group well though I had two distinct groups a small distance apart. That I suspect may have to do with how I was seeing the target due to light conditions, etc.

I have several more of the 50/50 cast bullets left. I'm considering backing down to 6.5 grains of Unique to see if that helps stop the leading with that alloy, and when those boolits are gone switch to straight wheel weight alloy. I'd really appreciate some more advice on this little problem. Thanks for all your help!

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There are few problems in life that can't be solved by the application of high speed lead projectiles.

Sounds like they may be a little small. have you miked them? I would also use straight wheelweight alloy.

I can send you a small sample of some bigger bullets if you're interested in trying them.

My RCBS 250K's. Water dropped 50/50. They run about .432".

Sounds to me like maybe your bullet is too small.

Have you measured your cylinder throats?

As explained by me in your previous post, undersized cast bullets allow gas to flow past the bullets' bearing surface melting the bullet alloy while the bullet is still in the barrel causing leading.

A small amount of leading is, IMO, normal, especially around the forcing cone and the start of the rifling but much more than that indicates an undersized bullet.

Undersized chamber throats can contribute to leading as they undersize the bullet fired through them. When the undersized bullet hits the forcing cone, gas flows past the bullet's bearing surface melting the alloy etc. If you have undersized chamber throats, a competent gunsmith can ream them out to where they no longer size the bullets but I believe this is not the primary cause of your leading problem.

From your previous post, you've already indicated that your bullets are not even sized by the sizing die and lube is forced around the sides of the bullets so your bullets are undersized to begin with.

Have two suggestions for you:

First, purchase a box of commercial cast bullets (e.g. Oregon Trails Laser Cast) and give them a try. You should experience much less leading which would indicate that your Ruger is not the cause of your problem.

Second, increase the lead to wheelweight ratio of your alloy by adding more wheelweights to any alloy that you still have. The more wheelweight in your alloy, the better. I would also take whatever you have already cast, strip the lube out of the lube groove, and put it back into the casting furnace and add more wheelweights. With more wheelweight in your alloy, you should start seeing a difference when running newly cast bullets through your sizer die. Do not add lead to your alloy at this time. Use straight wheelweight.

There's definitely a "learning curve" in casting bullets and I have trashed some entire casting sessions results by dumping all the bullets back into the lead furnace but as you gain experience, your reject rate drops to nearly zero and that is a good feeling.

Thanks for all the replies. I'm going to cast some bullets using straight wheel weights and see how that goes. I may also back off the powder charge 1/2 grain. The bullets already cast can be remelted (not lubed yet), recast and used in another revolver which does nicely use a 50/50 alloy.

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There are few problems in life that can't be solved by the application of high speed lead projectiles.

Lose the Lee die. Probably swaging the bullet down as it sizes the case, post seating. Try loading a few without using the FCD. Just put a roll crimp on them with the regular seat/crimp die...

I've cast and shot well over 300 pounds of straight wheel weights for 429421's for my Redhawk, sized to .431 and lubed with Lyman's 50/50 Alox. I use Lee's carbide dies for all the sizing, seating and roll crimping. My load is 5.5 grains of Bullseye for plinking (@ 885 fps) and 18 grains of 2400 for "hotter" loads (@ 1150 fps) You can go faster, but with wheel weights' you never know what you get as far as "hardness" so I don't get too carried away.

What I would do is:

1. See what size your bullets are "as cast" as soon as they come out of the mold, then mic them again when they are cold (air cooled) If they are under .431 cold, your mold might be too small. It should be stamped on it somewhere if it is undersized on purpose. Mine come out about .432-.4325 and cool to to .4315-.432.

2. Dump the 50/50 bullets you have, as is into the furnace a few at a time 'til they are gone as Marshall suggested. I wouldn't bother to strip the lube off, just dump them in at say 15-20 per 4 pounds of wheel weights. (there are roughly 32, 429421's per pound) You'll get a bit of smoke, but you needed to test the smoke alarms anyway.

3. I wouldn't back off on the powder charge, as according to my Lyman manual you are already at the suggested starting load for Unique. I'm not sure how Unique reacts to "smaller than starting loads".

4. The Lee dies aren't the problem unless you are taper crimping. This might make the bullet "smaller" by "swaging". I don't know, I'm just thinking out-loud here as I've never used a taper crimp on anything. If I crimp I use a light roll crimp.

5. As Marshall suggested try some "store-bought's" sized to .431.

All the talk on cylinder throats and forcing cones is good advice but try the larger diameter bullet first. It's the easiest.

There is a definite "learning curve" to bullet casting. There a bunch of knowledgeable fellows here that well help you get through.

What are you using to lube your bullets?

RJ

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I'm going to empty the 50/50 alloy out into the ingot mould. I can reuse it later for another revolver that shoots that alloy nicely. I'll then try some straight wheel weights. Right now I'm lubing with Lyman Ideal lube, but am on the last of it and then am changing to White Label BAC lube. I'll try crimping with the seating die.

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There are few problems in life that can't be solved by the application of high speed lead projectiles.

I'd suggest you change one thing at a time. (Lee FCD first), That way you will know what the problem is...

you may want to water drop your 50/50

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