whats the best way to remove leading from a barrel any help would will aperated

Take a worn bore brush, wrap in bronze wool, not steel, and scrub away. 15 or 20 strokes ought to do it. Won't hurt the bore, works better than anything else I've tried and fast too. Goatwhiskers the Elder

I like the old Lewis Lead remover to get the majority of it out. It's fast and gets the majority, then follow up as above to finish the rest.

Don't know who (if anyone) is making it anymore. Hoppe's was, for a while, but I think they may have sold it to someone else?

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MikeG

Brownells still sells them.

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If you have an old pair of denim blue jeans, cut some patches out of this (you want a tight fit in the bore) run them thru the bore. You'll see the lead stuck to the patch when it comes out.

There is also a non-mercuric lead solvent bore cleaning product now available called Wipe-Out No-Lead. I tried it. You let it sit for little awhile in the bore, then this carbon black crud patches out on standard patches. Lead gone. No brushing.

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Nick

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Although most folks caution to always use only strands from a copper potscrubber wrapped around a bore brush to scrape out lead, the fact is that the steel used in a cheap-o ptscrubber is too soft to do the least harm to rifling. If you can't find a pure copper one -- and they can be hard to find -- a steel one will do no harm and will work at least as well, if not better, than a copper one.

I think I'd be wary of trying that in a .22 rimfire barrel, though. A lot of those are pretty soft steel.

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Nick

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"First contemplation of the problems of Interior Ballistics gives the impression that they should yield rather easily to relatively simple methods of analysis. Further study shows the subject to be of almost unbelievable complexity." Homer Powley

The regular Wipe Out works pretty well too, at least on 22's.

RJ

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Would this work on heavy leading such as in revolver forcing cones?

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"Let his days be few; and let another take his office."-Psalm 109:8

unclenick , I tried that wipe out lead remover and it caused two of my barrels to rust inside . Atleast it looked like rust ,the patches kept coming out brown.Took quite a few to clear it up with oily patches . Arnie

Scott0116,

It'll work on any lead AFAIK. Like any bore cleaner, if your fouling is exceptionally heavy then you may need more than one application.


Arnie19,

They go through so much development work with this kind of product that it is hard to imagine they wouldn't have noticed if it actually caused rust, and would not have released it if it did (as that would quickly ruin their reputation). I've used it in my K-frame Smith .38 Special target revolver (blued; not stainless) with no problems. One line of the company's product description says:

"3."NO-LEAD" ™ Brushless Lead Remover ™ has a unique action that causes it to turn to a pastel pink as it dissolves lead. When the color does not change from the clear red color: that means all the lead has been dissolved."

In other words, you may need to use it more than once, and when the solid reddish color stops happening, that's when the lead traces are actually gone. I got Black crud out and some yellowish liquid which may have been old oil. Mix pastel pink and yellow and it would look pretty much like rust. I assumed the black I saw was a converted lead compound, but on reflection, that might also have simply been actual carbon that had been trapped between layers of the lead. This is a gun I got second hand, and if the lead in the chambers might have been older and thicker than I realized. If you get a nice polish on the lead it can fool your eye that way.

I have had an accidental combination of different cleaners cause rust before. It was long ago and I don't recall figuring out the particular mix that did it. It was after fighting extra heavy copper in a barrel and trying a number of things on it. Lead-out instructions specify that it is compatible with the same company's Wipe-Out bore cleaner, which they recommend you use after using No-Lead to remove carbon fouling and, presumably, any traces of remaining No-Lead. You might give that a try. Also, you could ask their customer service about your experience. Email: gethelp@sharpshootr.com, or call 785-883-4444.

My expectation is you saw something that looked like rust but isn't. However, it's also possible for very old layers of lead to cover up old rust underneath. If you have an actual pit, that's almost certain to be the cause. I once cleaned out an '03 barrel that looked to be in great shape with my borescope, except for some slight color inconsistencies. I was using Gunzilla CLP, which is a superior carbon softener, and as I do with old barrels I get, I got it sopping wet with the Gunzilla and plugged the ends and set it aside. After it sat for awhile, (I probably forgot about if for a month) I pulled the plugs and patched it out. All this liquid black sludge and rust came out. It took a number of additional patches to clear the rust. When I went back in with the borescope I saw a number of pits in the bore. The Gunzilla didn't do that. These were just old rust pits than had been glazed over with carbon (the discolorations I saw at the first inspection) and when the Gunzilla dissolved the carbon, the rust was re-exposed. Gunzilla is also one of the best products I've encountered for removing rust from a surface if you let is soak for a spell, and it did that job, too in this instance, which is what came out on the patch. All the pits had very clean, rust-free bottoms on the second scoping, and all the discolorations were gone.

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"First contemplation of the problems of Interior Ballistics gives the impression that they should yield rather easily to relatively simple methods of analysis. Further study shows the subject to be of almost unbelievable complexity." Homer Powley