What's the poop on foaming bore cleaners or paste type cleaners for copper removal in a gas operated auto?

I've got a can of Break Free foaming copper remover (which worked great in my other guns) that says nothing about using in a gas auto, however, I've got a new can of Gun Slick foaming copper remover that says "not recommended for gas operated autos".

Could a foaming copper remover, or paste type bore cleaner such as Remington's Bore Cleaner/40X or J-B bore cleaner, get into the gas system and gum things up?

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Sean,

"Much learning doth make thee mad" - Festus

You might be "the first kid on the block" to try it hardball. I'd tend to say "no, it won't work better or faster though! Was not designed to do so for scatter-guns and thier ammo.

Prove me wrong!

Cheezywan

It doesn't "gum" things, it downright rusts them. I use and like the Gunslick product, I use it on all my bolt guns and handguns. My Garands, ARs, and Mini 14 get Rem "Brite Bore" cleaner. I tried the Gunslick product on my Mini 14 and a few weeks later I went to go do something and couldn't open the action, I ended up using my boot and kicking it open. I took it apart and found the rust. I cleaned it all up and its good now (luckily no pitting had started).

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UTU, TY&E Service, BNSF

Youy can use it in a semi auto, if you either block or plug the gas system before you use it. If you don't it will quickly work its way into the system and cause rust if you don't clean all out.

Sounds like these cleaners are NOT made to be used without the precautions mentioned by bsn. As with others, I've tried them and have had great success with bolt and lever guns.

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"Firearms only have two enemies - rust and politicans" author unknown

Do they cause rusting, or just remove oil which lets rusting happen more easily? I have been using Wipe-Out Bore Foam in bolt and lever guns without seeing any rusting.... please advise if there are additional precautions.

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MikeG

I only know of Gunslick, and it does remove surface oils. It specifically says to follow the cleaning process with an oiled patch and to wipe down the surface with a lightly oiled soft cloth.

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Buy American, it may be your own job you are saving.
UTU, TY&E Service, BNSF

Okay, great... I'm back to the old, slow method of CU removal. ...Just when the heavens parted and I learned about foaming copper removers.

From what I understand from my new Mini/Ranch Rifle's owners manuel; plugging the gas system is a bit beyond basic field stripping- which is mostly what's covered with the exception of a courtesy parts diagram.

I've searched on some forums that have a lot of Garand shooters and I've seen a few posts about using the foam with the rifles upside down (still horizontal), claiming that the foam will retract or condense some and not ooze into the gas system that way. From using foam on my other guns- it does retract after several minuets, I can attest to that, but it first expands- notably. I would guess some could still get into the gas system of a Ruger Mini despite the upside down thing?

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Sean,

"Much learning doth make thee mad" - Festus

Could you flush the gas system out? Perhaps first with brake cleaner, then something to lightly re-oil it? I'm familiar with the Garand and seems like it would be relatively easy to strip down and maintain, but not the mini-14.

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MikeG

The Mini is super easy, no tools required like the Garand, pop the trigger out and everything else takes apart easily. You can still use the foaming cleaner, just make sure you spray some oil in the gas port. On the mini you'll have to take it apart, on the garand the port is right near the end of the barrel, you could spray a little in there.

__________________
Buy American, it may be your own job you are saving.
UTU, TY&E Service, BNSF

This is pretty much what one person at Ruger's tech support told me when I called them today. The first person I talked to wasn't sure whether or not the foam cleaners were a good idea but they would check on it and call me back. This person did suggest M-Pro 7 products for carbon/copper removal as an alternative to foam saying, that that's what they usually use.

The next person I talked to, at Ruger, said the foaming cleaners were fine as long as I "blew out the gas port with compressed air". Not sure if he thought about these cleaners removing the oil, if there is any, on the gas block and bushing though.

I guess if it's okay if foaming cleaner gets into the gas port as long as you blow it out with compressed air, it must be okay to follow that with a spray of CLP / WD-40 / Balistol into the gas port for rust prevention, followed by another spurt of compressed air to blow out any excess?

The first person's suggestion of M-Pro 7's copper remover didn't go unnoticed. I'm always looking for something else I can't live without, so I picked up some on the way home. I'll see how the M-Pro 7 works and if I get bored with that I'll try the foaming copper remover / gas port blow-out thing.

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Sean,

"Much learning doth make thee mad" - Festus

Well, it didn't take long for me to remember how tedious it is to remove copper fouling with only a solvent soaked patch- no matter what solvent.

I'm going to try the foaming cleaner but I'll disassemble my rifle first so that I have access to the gas pipe. Once I'm done patching out the foam I'll blow air into the gas pipe then blow in some CLP followed by another spurt of air.

That foaming copper remover has me completely spoiled!

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Sean,

"Much learning doth make thee mad" - Festus

Me too, I use the stuff on all my rifles and handguns. Its relatively ineffectual on a shotgun due to the large bore.

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Buy American, it may be your own job you are saving.
UTU, TY&E Service, BNSF

The foaming cleaners seem to leave a sticky residue after they sit for a while. This is not an issue if you run a oiled patch down the barrel after using them. I use the Break-Free foaming cleaner and really like it. After letting it set a while in the bore I run a few dry patches down the barrel, then a patch soaked with CLP, and more dry patches until I'm satisfied.

Sounds like the foaming based cleaners have a base thats water soluable and a wet patch(water) or two removing anything that left behind is a good idea. Of course don't forget to run a oiled patch to protect the bore.

Years ago using water to clean barrels was standard practice when they were using chlorate primers as the salts left behind attracted moisture and promoted rusting.

Sean,
You probably already know this but it's really no problem removing the gas block and eiher plugging or covering the barrel port. Use a new allen wrench if possible. The block screws are staked in, or at least they used to stake'm. Some folks say to use new screws. Use a torque wrench for inch/pounds and get the block even on both sides. You may want to try replacing the gas port bushing with a smaller size.
I hope no one minds if I mention this here, but there is alot of info on the Mini-14 at www.perfectunion.com

Thanks for the reply...

Before buying my Mini I did read up on removing the gas block and trying different size bushings. So far, I don't think I'll need to swap bushings on my rifle. With factory 55gr FMJ loads doing 3,000fps+ it's only throwing my brass about 8-10 feet, not the 8-10 miles that some have reported.

As for pulling the gas block apart for copper removal/cleaning; I'd rather not take the gas block off for routine cleaning so I plan to do the normal carbon removal cleaning until I start to see a copper build up then do the foam thing followed by blowing out the gas port bushing and then spraying in CLP (or similar) followed by another spurt of compressed air.

As I understand it... as long as I get the foaming cleaner out and some sort of rust preventative in I'm good.

This rifle has been a fun gun! I've only got about 150 rounds through it so far but it's breaking in nicely.

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Sean,

"Much learning doth make thee mad" - Festus

Try Boretech copper remover. I is a lot safer than the amonia based cleaners. You can leave it in a chrome moly barrell for weeks with no damage.

kudu40