I recently switched over to Miltec-1 for my guns and I have a couple of questions about how to proceed now with cleaning after use.

I followed the procedures on their website, first stripping the old oils out of the guns and then applying Miltec and heating the gun, wiped it all clean, reapplied, re-heated etc... 3 times.

This is their recommendation for seasoning the gun the first time you use it.

Now I'm not sure how to proceed. Next time I go out shooting and come back and need to clean the gun what should I clean it with?

In the past I've used typical products like Hoppes products, but they are a cleaner and oiler in one.

If Miltec wants you to de-oil a gun prior to the first application, when you now clean the gun and use something like Hoppes or similar you're oiling the gun again before you apply your new coat of Miltec. So that seems to go against their instructions of de-oiling your gun prior to 1st applications of Miltec.

Should I be using a gun cleaner that doesn't leave a protective oil on the gun and then apply another coating of Miltec? Or clean it with an all in one like Hoppes 9 and then apply Miltec over that?

I'm confused because it doesn't seem like you can just use Miltec to clean your gun after shooting, but that you have to use something else first.

I think you complicating this process too much.

I worked at a job that issued guns and cleaning gear. We cleaned with Hoppes #9 and lubed with Miltec.

So... use a cleaner, then your Miltec.

End of story.

I've heard rumors the Hoppes9 is carcenegenic. I don't know, but I believe that Slip 2000 works just fine.

Tis also a rumor that Phillip Hemphill lubes the inside of the bbls w/Militec prior to shooting the 50. This is based on lots of guys watching him to learn a secret or two, trying to learn why he has the edge.

I do the same. But, at times I use Slip 2000. I use them on 9s, and .38s shooting lead.

Slip 2000 claims that they are food grade...I don't know why I added that.

You take the rumor and run w/it. There are many that think that Phillip is the best, regardless of last years scores....10 time champion.

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John 14:6

Welcome to the forum (or your first post)!

Years ago.....I thought about the Miltec myself. Not sure what happened, but I hardly ever think about it until it's mentioned. Maybe good stuff. I've used CLP for a good many years. That's what we had in the service, and I relied on that for many years after becoming a civilian again. Thing is........a complicated process really isn't necessary. It's either a clean and lube with different products, or it's an all in one product. I spent many years using different products in different firearms for a specific purpose. I've found that Gunzilla (BC10) does darned near everything I need to do in any of my firearms. Miltec (from what I understand is supposed to permeate metals in a way. It's a treatment from my understanding. Kind of like waxing a car. You can wash and wax......but if you want the best treatment and want it to last.....you need to break it down to the bare paint with a process, and start over from the ground up. Like a clay bar. Remove the contaminants that have bonded to the paint first, then work up. Many folks don't know this, and many don't want to go through the effort nor the expense. Same goes for caring for your rifle inside and out. If copper fouling is an issue.....you use a copper solvent. Lead fouling is what it is depending on your firearm. Some leading is fine, then some is detrimental. 22LR, 30-06, or gas operated AR15. Clean and lube regimens change and should be modular.
Personally.........if I'm going to shoot a rifle often......I never "lube" the barrel. Not necessary. That's kind of like lubing a firing pin channel....(big no no for plenty of firearms pistols and rifles alike). Lube in a barrel creates added pressures without boosting FPS. Matter of fact the lube on the surface more than likely boils or fries inside the barrel. Preservation is long term storage....where a coating in the barrel is good. Rifles should always be cleaned with a patch run through after being in storage and oiled. Patch should come out dry even with possible fouling.
I'm not a fan of any "system" or do it all system. You kinda got to know your metals, and what your clean and lube products can and cannot do and how they will affect your firearms short term and long term. Then you need to know your barrel and your ammo......chrome lined or steel.....corrosive ammo, lead, or jacketed......etc. Commercial products always fill a niche in some way. It might be advertisement, or a claim. Thing is........everything commercially available should be used wisely and for it's specified intention. I've been working with the science of cleaning my own and customer's rifles for over twenty years and I know what works. Miltec might as well be listed as snake oil. There is not a one step do-it-all even though some come very close with that promise. PM me anytime.

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sans remords