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  #1  
Old 08-23-2007, 06:57 AM
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savage barrel nut wrench


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I bought a barrel nut wrnech from Midway and an Adams-Bennet barrel for my first rifle project. I tried the nut wrench last night and discovered that the nut diameter is 1/16 " to 1/8" to loarge and the wrench only goes to the "shoulder" of the nut. What do I have? The rifle is a 30-06, 110E...rifle looks older but I don't know age. It was just a cheap action to do a low cost project rifle barrel switch going to 338-06. Any help is greatly appreciated.
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  #2  
Old 08-23-2007, 09:24 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jwholloman
I bought a barrel nut wrnech from Midway and an Adams-Bennet barrel for my first rifle project. I tried the nut wrench last night and discovered that the nut diameter is 1/16 " to 1/8" to loarge and the wrench only goes to the "shoulder" of the nut. What do I have? The rifle is a 30-06, 110E...rifle looks older but I don't know age. It was just a cheap action to do a low cost project rifle barrel switch going to 338-06. Any help is greatly appreciated.
Sharp Shooters Supply sells a wrench that fits 2 different sized nuts. I have a homemade wrench but don't know if it would fit your gun or not. If you are local to me (western Pa) you are most certainly welcome to try! I must warn you though- this barrel switching habit is rather addicting.
--uplate
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  #3  
Old 08-23-2007, 09:38 AM
NFG NFG is offline
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There are two alternatives sounds to me like. Either a "Wrong Wrench" or a "Wrong nut", not to be too flippant about it.

Savage went to a larger barrel shank when the WSM calibers came out. Measure the OD of the barrel shank where the nut threads on the barrel. The "Standard" barrel measures 1.055" x 20 tpi and the "Large" barrel measures 1.120" x 20 tpi, but I think the OD of the nut was the same. I've never encountered a nut that my wrench wouldn't fit, large shank or standard shank.

I used a pipe wrench to get a nut off the first time I did a barrel swap because I didn't have a wrench. Was careful to hook the teeth into the square notch. It worked OK. Very slight damage that was easy to clean up and reblue even using a brass shim between the lower jaw and nut.

Goto http://www.sharpshootersupply.com/ for lots of good information on Savage.

Call Midway, tell them your problem and they will fix it up. Or...

You can order the correct wrench from Sharp Shooters, return the wrong wrench to Midway and continue your project. Be sure to measure the OD of the nut where the wrench goes so you can compare it to another factory barrel nut.

I've done many savage barrel swaps without any problems going way back to the mid 60's. I used various methods for the older round notched nuts. When all the hoohaa with Savage started I purchased my barrel wrench from Sharp shooters Supply and continue to buy from him. He's good people.

I can't understand the nut diameter difference. Wheeler Eng usually produces excellent products.

The other alternative is an incorrect dia nut installed either by the factory or some one else. In that case I would buy the correct size nut from Sharp Shooters when you get things sorted out.

Hope this helps.

Enjoy
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  #4  
Old 08-23-2007, 10:28 AM
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Well, this may sound dumb...how do you measure the barrel shank at the threads when you can't get the nut off due to wrong size wrench? I don't think the nust has ever been off so it should be a factory nut. Factory original stamped barrel anyway...I guess it may have been taken off and replaced prior to me buying for the reciever. It is a 110 E 30-06 so the WSM barrel diameter should not be at issue in this case. I emailed Sharpshooter and he suggested filing the "teeth" on the wrench down but I imagine I will be left without enough engagement to grip the nut if I do that...I am leery about that option as I may end up not being able to return to Midway if I do that. The other probelm is will my barrel I plan on installing fit this reciever...again, how do you measrue the barrel diameter at the threads if you can't get the nut off with the supposed "correct" wrench. Did Savage ever use a different OD nut, even considering the larger WSM OD threads recently....is the OD of the nut the same for std. barrels vs. WSM barels?? I guess i can always buy a new nut from SS and just go ahead and ruin this one with a pipe wrench. Thanks for any comments.
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  #5  
Old 08-23-2007, 10:37 AM
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In M. L. McPherson's book "Accurizing The Factory Rifle", he shows another alternative.
It was a box-end wrench (12-point) and pins.
He placed the "pins", which were cut from welding rod (or was it brazing rod?) in the nut's grooves, and used the box-end wrench to remove the nut. The wrench is turning against the pins, which are turning the nut.

I wish I could recall the wrench size and pin diameter, but I can't, and the book is buried right now. Maybe I can dig it out later if you want.
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  #6  
Old 08-23-2007, 07:42 PM
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When it comes to savages, Fred at sharpshooters is THE man. My guess is that if he says that filing the teeth will work, he has seen the problem before I spent probably 20 minutes talking with him about a month ago on an aftermarket stock problem i was having with a boyds stock
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  #7  
Old 08-24-2007, 10:35 AM
NFG NFG is offline
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Reguarding the measurements...I was refering to WHEN you got the nut off. As always...posts never quite get all the required information supplied and sometimes assumptions are made.

Any competent gunsmith should be able to help you. It depends on the level of cost you want to expend on the first go'round. Setting the barreled action up on a spin index and milling the slots to fit the wrench shouldn't take more than an hour or so or milling through to the top of the nut threads on opposite sides will allow the nut to be broken.

There are many ways to get your problem solved. Maybe the best way is to send the barreled receiver to Fred at SSS and have him do what's required. He can also face your receiver and barrel nut and install one of his recoild lugs at the same time. All my Savages sport his lugs, some his tactical bolt handles and some just the large ball handles, two with his SS triggers and 3 with Timney's. Something to think about.

As I said a pipe wrench will get it off and a new correctly sized nut is about 20 bucks. I wouldn't grind the wrench teeth as this might ruin the wrench for future use. Just be sure to clamp the receiver ring well and tight so you don't twist the receiver.

DON'T stick something down the mag well and try to hold the receiver, all you will do is twist it. You didn't mention how you were going to hold the receiver.

A little heat with any torch also helps by expanding the nut.

Some extreme methods I've have used on balky mauser and Rem actions is to lathe cut a relief through the recoil lug and or cut the barrel off and drill out, but usually a pipe wrench, a 4' snipe and a LITTLE heat will usually do the trick.

Again...read the tech information on Freds site, it covers some of your questions.

Don't get discouraged. The nut WILL come off. Even though it is a "cheap" project initially, I've found my Savages to be among the most accurate rifles I have...other than some high dollar benchresters...and usually end up with one of them in my hands more often than my Rems or Rugers.

I also have 7 extra Savage barrels in various calibers just to swap around now and again.

Torque the nut to aboutr 50 ft/lbs on any barrel and you won't have any more problems with "cramped or tight nuts" again. 50 ft/lbs is plenty as shooting tends to tighten the nut.

Enjoy
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  #8  
Old 08-24-2007, 06:17 PM
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I definately recommend Fred's Time and Truing of the action. It makes the bolt work so smooth and nice
__________________
My sin, oh, the bliss of this glorious thought!
My sin, not in part but the whole,
Is nailed to the cross, and I bear it no more,
Praise the Lord, praise the Lord, O my soul
!


Not because of who I am, but because of what HE's done, not because of what I've done, but because of who HE is. -Casting Crowns
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