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  #1  
Old 09-16-2007, 08:26 AM
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Ruger Number 1 Triggers - how to improve?


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I didn't have much luck on the search engine for Ruger #1 triggers but I gotta believe there have been numerous posts regarding improving the #1 trigger. Mine is a #1V in 25-06.

Is there an illustrated how-to document somewhere that describes how to work on a #1 trigger? The trigger on my gun is not a horribly bad trigger but could definately be lighter and crisper.

I'd like to try and make it better instead of out and out replacing it. If I can get some good directions I'll take photos of the work process and post them here on the forum.

If I did decide to replace it, what are the options weighing performace against cost?

If you replaced yours, are you satisfied with what you did?

Thanks
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Old 09-16-2007, 11:12 AM
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I bought my #1B off of the used rack Flash. The trigger was adjusted too light so I went the other way. Lightly polished, cleaned, lubed, and adjusted for full sear engagement. I tried it and liked it just fine right there. Is still the best trigger in the rifle rack.

Mine is 1976 vintage. I think I have read that Ruger changed things abit since then. Might not be the same animal any more. I did install the extra power hammer spring. Was supposed to decrease lock time. I could not detect any change in performance from that.

Good gun. I want another.

Cheezywan
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  #3  
Old 09-16-2007, 11:21 AM
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Maybe this article will help some.
http://www.realguns.com/archives/063.htm
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  #4  
Old 09-16-2007, 11:40 AM
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My #1 was built in 1979 and it's adjustments work well. Some of the newer #1's have adjustment screws, but they don't seem to work as well as the older ones. The Moyers trigger below is almost an exact duplicate of the original Ruger #1 triggers and they work exceptionally well.

The ultimate Ruger #1 trigger is the KEPPLINGER below, but it is pricey.

You can hone the sears on all triggers and that will help, but you've got to really watch the sear angles and keep all angles sharp. Most folks that do any trigger work use a sear block that has pins that keep the trigger and sear in correct relationships. Without that your mostly guessing, but I've seen some good work done without a sear block.

Below are the two triggers Brownell's sells.

SINGLE-SET TRIGGER
Stock NumbersSpecifications

Mfr: KEPPLINGER

Traditional European Design; Austrian Made For Mauser, Ruger & Remington

Super-light “set” trigger and standard hunting trigger, all-in-one. Press forward to quickly convert the standard hunting weight pull into a light, match-grade pull. Solid, all-steel construction; screw adjustable for weight of pull. Installed on a Military 98, “set” pull weight was 6 oz., unset was 3 lb. M98 - Requires widening of the trigger slot. M98 W/Safety - Has large, easy-to-reach, sear block; thumb safety on right side of trigger housing. Has polished steel or gold plated trigger. Requires stock and triggerguard modifications plus milling slot in receiver on M98 - only minor fitting for Mk X. Ruger #1 and #3 - Both use factory safety. Range of adjustment of set trigger, 1-3 lbs. No machining required on action. Unset pull weight is determined by sear/hammer relationship - not by set trigger. Remington 700 - Trigger only, uses factory trigger housing safety, bolt stop and sear. Does not fit guns equipped with ISS safety. Winchester 70 - Fits post-'64. Unset - 2-4 lbs. Adjustable for overtravel and pull weight. Safe, resistant to slam fire in the set mode. Gunsmith fitting required. Installation requires minor fitting to the safety and triggerguard slot.

SPECS: Steel, polished and blued, or stainless steel (Ruger #1/#3). M98 also available with a gold plated trigger. Instructions.

Catalog page 91

Stock Number / Desc

495-100-001
Ruger #1/#3 Trigger $267.43




RUGER~ #1, #3 ADJUSTABLE TRIGGER KIT
Stock NumbersSpecifications

Mfr: MOYERS

Fully Adjustable, Clean, Crisp Pull

Completely adjustable for overtravel, weight of pull and takeup. Heat treated and fully finished. Clean breaking trigger enhances the accuracy of your Ruger. No alterations necessary to convert the heavy, factory trigger to a lightweight delight. Gunsmith installation recommended.

SPECS: Chrome moly (C/M) steel, matte blue finish or stainless steel (S/S), matte finish. Instructions.

Catalog page 90


Stock Number / Desc
Price
Qty
More Info
577-100-103
C/M No. 1 Trigger $53.00




Gun Parts
Dropped by Brownells

577-100-001
S/S No. 1 Trigger $53.00
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  #5  
Old 09-16-2007, 02:05 PM
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Thanks for the inputs. I read the Real Guns article and it was sufficiently well illustrated that I could probably do as shown. Now I have to work up the guts to do it. It won't be until after hunting season as I don't want to risk not having the gun available for use.

After having read the RG article is seems he could have gotten almost the same results by changing the spring and smoothing the parts without having to buy a new trigger and replacing it.
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Last edited by flashhole; 09-16-2007 at 05:51 PM.
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  #6  
Old 09-16-2007, 02:22 PM
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Brownell's also sells a hammer spring and a lighter hammer that both decreases the lock time and gives a lighter trigger. I'm not sure how a heavier hammer spring is supposed to make a lighter trigger. I suppose the new hammer has some slightly different sear angles or smaller sear shelf.
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  #7  
Old 09-16-2007, 02:22 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by flashhole
Afte having red the RG article is seems he could have gotten almost the same results by changing the spring and smoothing the parts without having to buy a new trigger and replacing it.

That's about what I got from it too.
I'm going to work on mine, or have it done some time. Just haven't gotten around to it. Busting that stock loose is the main thing that worries me but it shouldn't be that big a deal.
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  #8  
Old 09-17-2007, 01:46 PM
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I just installed a Moyer's trigger last night in my boss's project rifle; it works fine and gave a decent trigger pull. I ended up with better results on my own 22 Hornet #1, however, by welding some "stops" at the right locations and carefully filing them down until creep and letoff were where I wanted them. I ended up with a 2# trigger pull, which is just right for me. This is with one of the newer triggers where the adjustment screws don't do much. I don't recommend this method if you need to ask directions though; it requires a pretty good understanding of the trigger mechanism. (Not bashing anyone here, just saying it can be easy to screw up when you start using a welder on your trigger mechanism! )

Shouldn't be any issue with getting your stock loose, just loosen the bolt and pull the stock off, unless you've bedded it to the gun??
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  #9  
Old 09-25-2007, 06:34 PM
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I had a Kepplinger, but I only shot it for a month, before the rifle was stolen.

When I was installing it, I could not help but think I could make a very effective trigger myself, with no internal moving parts.
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Ruger Number 1 Triggers - how to improve?-kepplingertrigger-1dscf0005.jpg  

Last edited by tnekkc; 09-25-2007 at 06:37 PM.
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