Can anyone give me any hints on gumsmithing something like a Yugo M48 Mauser? I'd like to once make a sporter rifle out of a Mauser even though it's generally not advised because of the cost to do it, however, I could do all of the work involved and just want a sporter that's a Mauser for no other good reason. As far as I know, the M48 Yugo, which is fortunately available in quantity to me (a reason for possibly trying it with this rifle) locally is not totally standard Mauser Model 98 Pattern. I know that it deviates from the pattern in the length of action, and maybe other areas too. I'm sure that this would require different stocks. Would this require too much effort for this particular version of Mauser that someone would advise making another choice of Model 98 Action? If so, which action and who as a supplier might have one? What about a VZ 24?

Thanks,

Danny

gas, I don,t know much about the m48 but I build most of my custom rifles on the m98, it make a great custom rifle. The VZ 24 is about the best action that you can get in the m98 I think, good steel, heat-treating and machining. If you want a book that will tell you all about Mauser bolt actions, get The Mauser Bolt Actions A shop Manual By Jerry Kuhnhausen. I use this book all the time for identification and tech. answers. Bobby

Check out Richards Microfit stocks, they are cut to match the action and a standard sporter weight barrel and nearly a drop in fit. The prices are too cheap for what you get, (quality) and they're turn around time is quite excellent.

http://www.rifle-stocks.com/

Here's the action data and prices from Richards..

Mauser 48 Military - Short Action - Large Ring (7-5/8" Between Lug Holes, 1-3/8" Front Receiver Ring) Cut standard for an original stepped military barrel. A #1 or #3 contour barrel channel also available on request at no charge. Now available 99% Inletted for a press fit, requiring very minor fitting.
M48 Yugoslavian, M48A Yugoslavian, VZ500, 1924 Yugoslav (***1924 Yugo was made both Long 7-13/16 & Short 7-5/8"***)

Old Sporter 102 style pricing

CALIFORNIA CLARO WALNUT
Claro Walnut is used on all stocks unless a different hardwood is specified at time of order.

Economy Grade - No Dealer Discount $49.97 Grade AAA Extra Fancy $229.00
Standard Grade $69.97 Exhibition Grade $295.00
Select Grade $79.97 Grade A - Feather Crotch or Burl in Butt $169.00
Semi-Fancy - Oversupply SALE $89.97 $99.00 Grade AA - Feather Crotch or Burl in Butt $229.00
Grade A Fancy - Oversupply SALE $117.97 $129.00 Grade AAA - Feather Crotch or Burl in Butt $295.00
Grade AA Fancy $169.00 Exhibition - Feather Crotch or Burl in Butt $345.00



AMERICAN BLACK WALNUT

Economy Grade - No Dealer Discount $49.97 Grade A Fancy $129.00
Standard Grade $69.97 Grade AA Fancy $169.00
Select Grade $79.97 Grade AAA Extra Fancy $229.00
Semi-Fancy Grade $99.00 Exhibition Grade $295.00



QUILTED MAPLE / FIDDLEBACK MAPLE

Economy Grade - No Dealer Discount $69.97 Grade A Fancy $169.00
Standard Grade $79.97 Grade AA Fancy $229.00
Select Grade $99.00 Grade AAA Extra Fancy $295.00
Semi-Fancy Grade $129.00 Exhibition Grade $345.00



ENGLISH WALNUT

Standard Grade $79.97 Grade A Fancy $169.00
Select Grade $99.97 Grade AA Fancy $229.00
Semi-Fancy $129.00 Grade AAA Extra Fancy $295.00



BASTOGNE WALNUT

Economy Grade - NOT AVAILABLE Grade A Fancy $169.00
Standard Grade $79.97 Grade AA Fancy $229.00
Select Grade $99.00 Grade AAA Extra Fancy $295.00
Semi-Fancy $129.00 Exhibition Grade $345.00



MYRTLE

Economy Grade - NOT AVAILABLE Grade A Fancy $169.00
Standard Grade $79.97 Grade AA Fancy $229.00
Select Grade $99.00 Grade AAA Extra Fancy $295.00
Semi-Fancy $129.00 Exhibition Grade $345.00

Hope this helps. I'm building a .35 Whelen right now on a m-48 action and expect ot be ordering a stock soon.

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I took my new Yugo M48A Mauser to the range last weekend and it requires some front sight adjustment. On inspection the front sight is off to one side and this explains why it shoots 2" groups 4" to the right of center at 50 yards. Does anyone know how to remove the hood, and adjust the front sight?

I have zeroed in my M91/30 but this M48A appears to be different and I have not as yet found anything that explains this on the WEB.

Thanks,

-Ralph

like bobby said

__________________
BULLEE01

I've had 3 rifles built on Mauser actions; done none of the work myself. A 338-06, and 6.5-06 on VZ.24 actions, and a 416 Taylor on a '98 action. All are nice shooters and I really like all of them. None are as smooth as a Mod 70 action, but I haven't had that fine work done to them.

The M48 is a slightly shorter action the than VZ.24 and the '98. I didn't think the M48 was suitable for the 2.5" class of cases like the 35 Whelen? Could be wrong as I don't know if the magazine lengths are different between the models, or if ramps can be modified enough to feed reliably for the shorter action.

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NRA Endowment Member
SCI Member

The cover will just slide off either to the front but most likely to the rear.
The front sight is just dovetailed in place, knock it to the side away from the direction you want the point of impact to go.

Here's a novel concept but it also shows the sights pretty well.

The 48 can be smithed carefully to use the longer case but you can't run them through a stripper clip, they'll be too long normally.

Another nice page.

__________________
Never leave 'til tomorrow what you can blast into inexistence today.

Thanks for the information on the adjustment; that way I won't get confused!

Have you given the Mojo rear sight a try? What do the SnapSights for the front do for you?

-Ralph

Not the Mojo sights as such, I've used the same type of sights on olympic/position style rifles before and they do work well if the front sight hole is sized properly in comparison to target size.

It works extremely well on round targets.

__________________
Never leave 'til tomorrow what you can blast into inexistence today.

Just finishing up a .35 Whelen on a VZ24 action, have a .338/06 on the same action, and built a 7mm/08 on an M48 about three years ago. You can do everything yourself, but get the book mentioned first!

Most of the tooling needed can be rented, if needed.

I am now in the process of finishing up a Yugo 48. It is chambered for .35 Whelen. I did not have to do anything to the shorter receiver to make the cartridge fit and feed. It is about the largest cartridge that this size receiver will take without altering it. I used a Boyd's stock and an Adams's & Bennet barrel.

http://www.boydsgunstocks.com/Search...sp?Search=yugo

The Boyd's stock fit the 48 action very well. No problems there. The biggest problem I had was getting the orginal barrel off the receiver. They used some kind of varnish to glue the barrel onto the receiver and man, it did not want to come off. I rented a reamer from 4D:

http://www.4-dproducts.com/

and got the headspacing taken care of. The Yugo's tolerance's are not that precise. You will have to work to get the shoulder square and the bolt should be lapped as they usually do not engage the receiver evenly. The receiver threads are not very stronge either. May have to chase them to clean them up. Also be careful when removing the old barrel as they may break off. I am now awaiting the arrival of my front sight to complete the rifle.

I have put MOJO's on three of my M48's and 24/47's. They take a little getting use to. They do allow the point of aim to come down as these rifles tend to shoot high using the military sights. Also there is no permanent modifaction done to the sights, they can be switched back to the orginal if needed.

I recently acquired a yugo m48. Good condition except the barrel was badly pitted. I bought a replacement barrel from Numrich and after threading in the new barrel and getting the headspace correct, the front and rear sight mounts are canted to the left. I know I can heat the solder underneath to rotate them, but how do I make sure they are lined up correctly and square to the barrel?
Any Ideas?

when headspace is correct I use the bottom of the receiver as my square. Once its held square and level in vise or jig the sights are stripped, all parts are removed including screws and freed from solder by carefully heating and moving forward to an solderless area When cool the sights are gently tapped back into position. A small level is used to square rear sight first and then the front. Sometimes eyeball alignment is used instead but takes good judgement. When correctly positioned the set screws on both front and rear can be used to hold them in position during re soldering. Care must be taken NOT to contaminate the solder surfaces or solder the set screws in place!!. You can can then remove screws again drill a small retaining dimple and reinstall screws. Use the old holes as a guide to size and depth. The old ones will be hidden when doen. After a few tries its easiler.

Thanks Vintovka. I had tried the eyeball alignment, but it still didn't look right. I hadn't thought of using the bottom of the receiver as a level area. Makes sense.