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  #1  
Old 12-12-2012, 04:36 PM
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Ruger 77 w/tang safety


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I have an older model 77 Ruger with tang safety. Can anyone tell me what the torque should be for the action screws? I have heard that the back and front screws should be tight and tighten the middle one to fine tune the groups.
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  #2  
Old 12-12-2012, 06:26 PM
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Welcome to the site Retgman. It is a pretty fair place to loaf.

I have two tang safety Rugers. I've played with the various torques with my Fat-wrench and torque wrench. I tighten the

front angle screw with a$$ tight 90 inch pounds, then the rear screw with 60 inch pounds, and last the middle screw with medium torque to just keep it in.
Clearly the biggest failure on Rugers is that front angled action screw. Bill wanted patents on his guns and this is what they came up with, just saying it pulled the action back and down. Unfortunate.

I'd like to say that the screw torques have improved my groups, they have NOT. I'd also tried the credit card shims in the barrel channel and in front of the action; sort of speed bumps/dampening. Not really any good for me. These early Ruger had low bid barrels, and were not very good. It took the company about 15 years to realize this; and then they got involved with the barrel quality. After this, the accuracy also improved greatly.

good luck, let us know if anything works for you.
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  #3  
Old 12-12-2012, 07:05 PM
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Welcome to the Shooter's Forum Retgman, glad you joined up!

I do about what Harry suggested, tighten the crap out of the angle screw and others are just snug. I always figured the angle screw was a good idea since it pulls the action down and back against the recoil lug. What don't you like about it Harry?
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  #4  
Old 12-13-2012, 03:12 AM
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ruger

thanks, I have had this rifle since1985. It is 300 win mag. w/ McMillan stock which I had full length bedded. It shoots federal premium, nosler partitions pretty good. This year went to Barnes w/ tipped x bullet. It seems to like them also. Never torqued the screws that high, but will see how it works.
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  #5  
Old 12-13-2012, 04:15 AM
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My M77 varmint rifle (243) made in 1978 . It shoots out standing at around 30in lbs.
90in lbs would make me worry about damage to the action (pulling the threads).

Last edited by Remmy700; 12-17-2012 at 05:25 AM.
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  #6  
Old 12-13-2012, 04:55 AM
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Hi Remmy, I'm about 25 miles south of you, but hunt the Rock for rabbits.

Monty, the angle sounds fine, except when one considers that linear extansion and contract of wood and even plastic (temp and time) means that the bearing on the action is changing. Perpendicular screws pull straight down and id the recoil lug is properly bearing, the linear stretch of the stock/action is minimal. In competition you seldom see a Ruger action used.

I like Ruger (must, I have 7) and think they make one of the best looking/finished rifles available anywhere, and a t a good price. But the action has been a restraint on their accuracy; beyond hunting levels IMO.
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  #7  
Old 12-13-2012, 06:12 AM
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I have two older 77s (tang safety guns from the 1970s). Both shoot just great with 'bad' barrels. The only improvements I made were to free float the barrels to avoid point of impact shifts, and to glass bed the actions.

Contrary to what some folks might think, glass bedding the 77 with the front angled screw was just about exactly the same procedure as glass bedding any of my other rifles. Didn't have the least bit of trouble with it.

Once they are glass bedded, then the front screw goes tight, the back screw goes about half as tight, and the middle screw bottoms out snug and that's it. Same as my model 70. Never used a torque wrench on any of them, and action screws always get low-strength threadlocker on any of my rifles.

While some folks may have bum barrels on their older 77s, I don't think that is universally their worst fault. The stocks are big, heavy, and clunky. Heavy is not too bad on the .338 but the Roberts sure doesn't need the extra weight.

Like any rifle, you may have to play a little with the bedding to get it to shoot best. That really has nothing to do with the angled screw, and everything to do with the fickle nature of rifles......
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Old 12-13-2012, 06:20 AM
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Hi retgman,

I am with HarryS on the Ruger action design. I have owned Rugers in 350, 338 and a round top 270. I could never get any of them to shoot sub-minute of angle. They were OK shooters but not what I wanted. I custom built rifles for many years and it wasn't because I didn't know something about bedding a rifle. I built many big bores that shot sub-minute on Mausers and Mod-70s. I felt as HarryS that the problem is the angled front screw. It is very hard to inlet a stock to accommodate the front angled action screw.

Since I didn't use the Ruger action for custom builds I never pursued a solution. I did feel part of the problem was the sharp edge at the junction of the lug. The angle action screw pulls the edge of the stock up into this junction and I always wanted to blunt that edge to see if it would help. Just never got around to it. I think the Ruger action would be a much better shooter with a standard recoil lug design. It sure works for Mausers and Mod-70s. Ruger did this for Marketing and it is the weak point of the action in my opinion.

Frank
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  #9  
Old 12-13-2012, 06:31 AM
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Bill Ruger had patents on his first design the auto pistol. and his partner was an attorney, so patents were seen as #1 to a sucessful product. And i agree with that 100%.

some may want to read Bill Rugers patent on the angled screw. I've read all his patents and find them interesting from both a technology and a marketing view. He made millions on his proprietary sign bases.

angle action screw patent
https://docs.google.com/a/google.com.../US3444641.pdf
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Old 12-13-2012, 06:31 AM
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The junction of the lug and the action? It's just a 90 degree angle, same as a model 70 or a mauser or anything with a two-piece lug.... what am I missing?

Once the rifle is glass bedded then I don't see what difference it would make. There must be something very obvious that doesn't register in my brain.....
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  #11  
Old 12-13-2012, 07:03 AM
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Bought my first M77 Ruger in 7RM back in 1972 and still have it today. There are several more in the vaults to join it, as I think highly of the M77's. The latest is the MkII V/T in .223 Rem. with the heavy lalminated stock and stainles bbl'd action.

After glass bedding and free floating, all the rifles in various chamberings shoot well and hold their POI's from use to use. Mine with wooden stocks get the front screw tightened to 40# - 45# in. torque and the synthetic stocked one go to 60# - 65# in. as recommended by the Fat Wrench torque wrench instructions. The middle screw is tightened only until the floor plate engages with the trigger guard.
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  #12  
Old 12-16-2012, 09:29 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HarryS View Post
Welcome to the site Retgman. It is a pretty fair place to loaf.

I have two tang safety Rugers. I've played with the various torques with my Fat-wrench and torque wrench. I tighten the

front angle screw with a$$ tight 90 inch pounds, then the rear screw with 60 inch pounds, and last the middle screw with medium torque to just keep it in.
Clearly the biggest failure on Rugers is that front angled action screw. Bill wanted patents on his guns and this is what they came up with, just saying it pulled the action back and down. Unfortunate.

I'd like to say that the screw torques have improved my groups, they have NOT. I'd also tried the credit card shims in the barrel channel and in front of the action; sort of speed bumps/dampening. Not really any good for me. These early Ruger had low bid barrels, and were not very good. It took the company about 15 years to realize this; and then they got involved with the barrel quality. After this, the accuracy also improved greatly.

good luck, let us know if anything works for you.
+1, The only thing that I've seen to help the older Ruger 77s is to pillar bed the stock and replace the barrel. Mine in 338 shoots about 1 1/2" at 100- yds. so it's good enough to hunt bear and elk with.
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  #13  
Old 12-16-2012, 12:11 PM
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Hi swamp, because it is angled you need to tight it heavy. Only a component of the toque is force down, perpendicular to the bore. the tang safety models for the most part had bad barresl. Todays heavy barrel Hawkeyes are much, much, more accurate.
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  #14  
Old 12-21-2012, 05:19 AM
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ruger 77

Haven't heard or seen any replacement barrels for the 77. Can anyone tell me where they are offered, or who makes barrels for it?
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  #15  
Old 12-22-2012, 07:08 PM
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The reason for the angel was in theory it creates a solid bed. The 60 degree front screw is very sensitive to correct torque unless bedded(Ruger advertises and I use 90 inch pounds for front and rear with the middle being lightly snug then back of 1/8 turn)
There was a few years that Ruger was sourcing barrels out and they shot horrid but when they started in house again accuracy came back quite well. Unfortunately tang safeties got a bad rep by then. I however had then routinely shoot sub minute both tang and 3 pos safety. My GF uses a 22 250 with pencil barrel in stock class of our varmint shoot competitions and wins often, mind you this is with a sporter stock as well.
I work on alot of 77s and accurate them A LOT , IMO the biggest weakness of them is not investment casting ,triggers or barrels but the factory sporter wood stock itself. Sometimes you have to remove the pressure tip and free float tip of the barrel, sometimes add more pressure and sometimes full length bed the action and barrel. Same issues other makers have.. I have two sitting right here I have done nothing to that are honest .75 shooters,one that is sub .5 and I have also set some down the road,again just like other brands

Last edited by Romey; 12-22-2012 at 07:12 PM.
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  #16  
Old 09-20-2013, 06:10 PM
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Can anyone tell me where I can get new barrel for the older ruger tang safety model 77?
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  #17  
Old 09-21-2013, 05:23 AM
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Retgman, any of the aftermarket barrel makers barrels can be fitted to a Ruger M77. Check the Brownells catalog, and do a search for custom barrel makers like Douglas, Shaw, Hart, Shilen, Pacnor, etc.
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