I have a question that hopefully someone can answer for me. I have a Savage 116 that I am very pleased with. However, I really like the looks of the gray/black laminated stocks (700 LSS, T3 Laminated, etc.). I found a stock that is labeled "semi finished laminated pepper" for a Savage 110. Before I order the stock, does this sound like the stock I need to order to achieve the results I desire? In other words, is the ONLY difference between the 110 and 116 wood vs. synthetic stock and blued vs. stainless? Will I be able to put a gloss finish on the stock, too? Also, should I expect my rifle to still shoot as accurate as with the synthetic stock? Any help will be greatly appreciated.

The 110 and the 116 are identical except for finish. The Savage 110, 111, 112 and 116 are all identical, so that stock will work for you.

I can't help you with you finishing question, but I can tell you I put a Boyds lamiante stock on my Savage 111 and glass bedded it, and it's more accurate than before. In general, I'd say if you glass the gun in a laminate, it will be more accurate. The Savage factory synthetic stock, while economical, is not very stiff, and therefore in general less accurate. You should enjoy the result of a new stock.

The black laminated stocks are called "pepper". The brown, or walnut stocks are called "coffee".

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Hi, im also thinking of replacing my 116 stock, i found a site w/ many different types. http://www.martscustoms.com/stocks_page.htm
So the 110 stocks will fit my 116? Thnx alot

Yep, they'll fit. Enjoy.

Check out this site. I have used their stocks for quite a few years and am extremly happy wtih them. These are Richards Micro-fit stocks

http://www.rifle-stocks.com/actions_available.htm

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Bob from Idaho

Where did you find your stock for your Savage 116? I have a 110 that I want to put a laminated stock on.

Thanks,

Jason

You can buy the Laminate stocks from Boyds directly www.boydboys.com or from Midwayusa.com. If you're up for it you can sava a bunch by getting the VIP stock directly from Boyd's. However be ready to sand, sand & more sand those machine marks out, then to get the most out of it it should definatelyat least be glass bedded to your rifle. Contact brownells.com for their acraglass gel & be sure to get some modeling clay to fill in the "lock" areas (grooves, cracks & sutch then apply a thin layer of release agent on the metal & secure the two with surgial rubber & a simalar material be sure to use a Q-tip to clean the holes & threads REAL GOOD then dip the screws in auto paste wax & snug them down. The next day-(and have patience!) remove the screws and I hope you cleaned the holes out right? then hold the stock tight & thump the barrel with your hand and it should pop out for ya. Use the gel liberly in the area of the recoil lug & stay away from the magazine area. I also like to remove some material near the rear tang and carefully glass that area as well. Clean the stock with alcohol to remove any oil then use a coat hanger through the front hole & stain then coat with a fast dry laquer-no poly here. steel wool the repeat 4 to 5 coats & you'll be the envy of your fellow rifle loony. I had great luck with remington 700 pillars if you really get adventurous the grooves pre contured ones from brownells work great. After all this my factory barrelled 308 with asharpshooter trigger (the best! & also from brownells) was the most accurate rifle I ever shot with light for caliber bullets. 125 BT's & 110 Sierra HPs and 150 Hornady SP Light Mags for factory stuff. Good luck!!!