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  #1  
Old 05-03-2009, 03:23 PM
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Smile Ruger 22/45 Mark III vs Ruger Mark III Target


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Other than the grip angle of the 22/45 Mark III replicating the 1911 Colt, are there other differences? Does changing the grip angle create any mechanical problems - ie jams, not cycling properly?
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Old 05-03-2009, 04:29 PM
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Bought one for my 5'2" wife to shoot. My High Standard is to heavy for her, as was the standard Ruger.
Have not had problem on with it. Excellent functioning and good accuracy.

Jim
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  #3  
Old 05-03-2009, 05:03 PM
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Originally Posted by Musketcap View Post
Other than the grip angle of the 22/45 Mark III replicating the 1911 Colt, are there other differences? Does changing the grip angle create any mechanical problems - ie jams, not cycling properly?
Both fine guns. As you suspect, the only differences are the grip angle and a couple of parts...believe the bolt stops are slightly different...
Get the one you like best!
Rugers are reliable..jams, when they occur are usually magazine related such as dirty or a bent or broken lip. My Mark I runs just as good as my Mark III.
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  #4  
Old 05-03-2009, 07:09 PM
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The 22/45 also has the safety, mag release and slide lock release in the same place as the 1911. I find it much more user friendly than other Ruger 22 pistols.
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  #5  
Old 05-03-2009, 08:18 PM
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All MKIIIs have the side mag release now. Some guys say the loaded chamber indicator (LCI) causes feeding problems, I have no problems whatsoever with my MKIII 22/45 or MKIII. I think most problems are ammunition related.
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Old 05-03-2009, 11:19 PM
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Originally Posted by mattsbox99 View Post
All MKIIIs have the side mag release now. Some guys say the loaded chamber indicator (LCI) causes feeding problems, I have no problems whatsoever with my MKIII 22/45 or MKIII. I think most problems are ammunition related.
I've had zero problems with the indicator, never even look at that thang, waste of tooling if you ask me...I always just pull the trigger to see if one is loaded. I did drop the magazine safety out...hate those things...
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Old 05-04-2009, 10:12 AM
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I haven't tried to take the Mag safety out, is it pretty easy?
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Old 05-04-2009, 05:38 PM
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It's pretty easy. Pull the barrel unit and grips as you normally would for cleaning. Pull up page 40 and study the schematic...better still, print it.
http://www.ruger-firearms.com/Firear...Manuals/50.pdf
Pin 44 enters from the left side, goes through 43 (bolt stop thumbpiece), the grip frame, 35 (safety), 36 (hammer), 37 (mag disconnector spring), 38 (mag disconnector), 40 (bushing), 39 (disconnector/trigger transfer arm) and stops in right side grip frame.
As you push out pin 44 from the right side, the pieces are going to disassemble faster than you can catch them and the sear (42) will kick up. Leave out 37 and 38 and put it back together. You'll have to fiddle with pushing the pieces back in and pushing the sear down but it's not too hard.
Couple of warnings, item 35 (safety), has a ball detent and spring that is not shown in the schematic, they can fall out so work over an area where small parts are easy to find...(if that place exists)
If you raise item 39 very high, item 29 (trigger spring plunger) can...and will..jump out.
Make sure pin 44 is fully in before tightening the left grip panel, as the panel holds it in, you might crack the panel if the pin was not fully in place.
While you're in there, look over the trigger, might think about a trigger upgrade someday and that's an easy fix also.
Midway has a Volquartsen trigger and hammer kit for about a hundred bucks. I think Clark still sells some trigger parts but I've never seen a kit from them.
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Old 05-04-2009, 08:42 PM
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I think I'll give that a try, it really bugs me when I'm dryfiring for practice.
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  #10  
Old 05-04-2009, 09:42 PM
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Originally Posted by mattsbox99 View Post
I think I'll give that a try, it really bugs me when I'm dryfiring for practice.
And when you look at it, your rusty brain may wonder about shims...will the hammer slide over with pieces missing? Good question, glad you asked.
Actually, the hammer strut goes down into the beveled end of the hammer spring plunger and keeps it centered.
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  #11  
Old 05-04-2009, 10:20 PM
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Have had several Ruger 22s and my 22/45 MkIII is the best one I have had yet.
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  #12  
Old 05-08-2009, 04:15 PM
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Smile Ruger 22/45 Mark III vs Ruger Mark III Target

Thanks for the replies guys. I was down hoisting various models today, and till today I was not aware the Ruger 22/45 Mark III had a POLYMER frame. Now I know state of the art Glocks have plastic / polymer frames. Am I a dinosaur who is destined to pay an un-necessary top dollar thinking machined steel is necessary for a gun frame (trigger guards, magazines etc) or will the polymer work fine? I must say I find the slide release easier to work on the Ruger 22/45 than on the regular Mark III.
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  #13  
Old 05-08-2009, 05:16 PM
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The polymer on the MKIII 22/45 is not a moving part unlike glocks and other plastic guns, so it'll last a long time. I have both and I like them both.
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  #14  
Old 05-21-2014, 09:57 PM
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Using Rugers

I have 9 Rugers here. All Mk III target models. Two are 45-22s and one has a 4" and the other a 5 1/2" barrel. These are for the 4-H Shooting Sports. All shoot better than anyone that has shot them could do. I didn't really want the 22-45s for my shooters because of the plastic frame. Now, after sighting them in, if I could just stop shaking, I think all would make one hole groups at 25 yds. These were bought in different batches and there were some stovepipes and jams when they were new. After 3 or 4 boxes of shells and filing the burrs off the top of the magazines all run great and most problems are ammo related. I cannot see any problem with the loaded chamber indicator. A little more to clean but has caused no problems.

The first 5 guns, which included one for me, got their sears polished and they are slick and consistent now. All are about 3.25 lbs. pull, down from 4 -5 lbs. when new. These now have about 4-5 thousand rounds through them. Rifling still sharp right to the chamber. I notice the plastic bottom on a couple of magazines is getting loose. The bluing is rubbed on the ones that I carry in the plastic boxes that they come in. I would suggest putting some moleskin on the box at the contact spots. Also be careful how tight you tighten the grips. Too tight can cause a crack and replacement.

I bought 5 BuckMark red dots, one for me, for use on silhouettes. Retail before our discount was $49.95. The BSA, which I could not see any difference was 69.95. So I bought the BuckMarks. On mine, I was not happy with the dot. It looked like it had a burr in the hole where the red light comes through. I went back to the gun shop and explained. All he had was a BSA. I paid the $20 and put it on. A world of difference! Plus, I think the battery life is longer. So, be aware and buy the best you can afford.
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