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  #1  
Old 03-03-2012, 08:52 AM
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Smile Reloading the M1.30 Carbine


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hi,
thanks for looking at this

I'm just starting to reload for my .30 carbine and I want to pick the brains of you guys ???

what do you like as your best loads, I want to use cheap cast bullets because it is an auto loader and I like to pull the trigger hehe

Rick

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  #2  
Old 03-03-2012, 09:34 AM
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2400 is my go to powder for all rifle cast bullet shooting.

If you cast your own the Lee 309-113F and C309-120-R both chamber fine in my Inland and RockOla.
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  #3  
Old 03-03-2012, 09:53 AM
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Cast bullets in an M1 Carbine can cause you issues with the gas piston freezing from lead buildup. I had the piston freeze up in less than 500 rds of cast bullets and getting it out to clean the lead off was extremely difficult because the lead was holding the piston in place and there is very little to grab on to.
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  #4  
Old 03-03-2012, 10:30 AM
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I'm looking at using bullets like this, what do you think ???
BERRY 30M1 CARBINE (.308) 110gr RN BULLET 250
MO BULLET CAST 30c (.309) 115gr RN

Rick

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  #5  
Old 03-03-2012, 12:02 PM
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Please read the first "Sticky" at the top of this forum. Be wary of loads posted on the internet other than by the powder or bullet manufacturers.
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  #6  
Old 03-03-2012, 01:44 PM
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kdub
thank you I did read that stcky and I do understand the warnings BUT common scene would tell me to check any info against that of power and bullet manufactures

sorry if I did wrong

Rick
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  #7  
Old 03-03-2012, 04:55 PM
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You didn't do wrong, Rick. In fact, reloading the 30 Carbine is not as straight-forward as many other rounds, so you might just be saving yourself a LOT of headache.

There is no way I'd mess with cast bullets in your semi-auto rifle. For the savings you'd realize, it just isn't worth the headache. When you can get FMJ's, NOT plated, for $.10/ea, why bother with the cheap stuff? http://www.hi-techammo.com/hitech.zk...C&object-menu6

Now, when it comes to reloading this fussy little bugger, you have GOT to keep in mind that it headspaces on the mouth! After resizing the cases (even if they're brand new) you will want to measure each and every one. Your gun may be different, but most are pretty fussy about the case length. With mine, cases that are ~1.286" or under will likely result in a light primer strike and FTF. Cases that are ~1.293" will fit too tight in the chamber and the bolt won't close on the action. It's a royal pain to get it back open, too!

Do yourself a favor RIGHT NOW, if you're going to load, and reload, these cases. Buy a Lee case length gauge and trimmer. You do not want to have to fuss with 'em.

As far as loads go, don't over-think it. This is a small-capacity, high-pressure round with a very narrow range of suitable bullets and powders. The smart thing to do is stick with H110 and small rifle primers. (It is called H110 because that is the bullet weight most commonly used with the 30 Carbine...H110/W296 was MADE for this cartridge.) The advice of using 2400 is also very solid. Go with published data from a reloading manual or go to Hodgdon's website. Don't listen to me or any other fat-fingered, would-be ballistician...go to the pros and be safe!
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  #8  
Old 03-03-2012, 05:01 PM
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broom_jm;
I don't get what this means (I think) "headspaces on the mouth" can you explain it so a 5 year old would understand hehe

Rick

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  #9  
Old 03-03-2012, 06:01 PM
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Headspace is what keeps the cartridge case from entering the chamber, going all the way down the bore, and falling out the muzzle onto the ground

The .30 carbine does this when the mouth of the cartridge hits a shoulder in the front of the chamber. Some cartridges do it by the shoulder, rim, or belt. But the .30 Carbine uses the case mouth, so length of the brass is critical.

Make sense?
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  #10  
Old 03-03-2012, 06:06 PM
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There is no rim or shoulder on the case for it to get head space off of, it's the same for many cases, 9MM, 40 S&W 45 ACP, therefore the case need to be a fairly specific length, if it's to long the bolt won't close, if it's to short you may get misfires from the firing pin pushing the round into the chamber from no support.
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  #11  
Old 03-03-2012, 06:44 PM
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Thank you all for clearing that up that is what I thought but being I never reloaded for pistols in the 30 years I have been reloading I wanted to be sure I was on the right page
I think I need a case gauge for the 30carbine I have a RCBS case trumer

broom_jm, were do you buy 30 cal FMJ for $.10 each ???

again thank you all

Rick

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  #12  
Old 03-03-2012, 07:02 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RACWIN375 View Post
Thank you all for clearing that up that is what I thought but being I never reloaded for pistols in the 30 years I have been reloading I wanted to be sure I was on the right page
I think I need a case gauge for the 30carbine I have a RCBS case trumer

broom_jm, were do you buy 30 cal FMJ for $.10 each ???

again thank you all

Rick

I have a couple different trimmers but really prefer the Lee case length gauge and trimmer for the 30 Carbine. With it, you do not have to worry about trimming them a little too short, which basically turns them into junk. If the case is too long you just chuck it up and trim to the perfect length, every time.

If you check my post above you will see a link to the website with a great deal on lead for 30 Carbine.
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  #13  
Old 03-04-2012, 01:11 PM
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I like a minimum book load of 14 gr. H110 as per Hodgedon with a 110 gr. RN bullet. Good velocity and mild kick. Works great in my buddy's .30 Carbine Blackhawk also.
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  #14  
Old 03-04-2012, 04:31 PM
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I would like to add the 30 carbine case can be thicker IMHO (and harder to size) than some stright walled brass, more so on Lake City or other military brass. I use Redding Sizing wax (on each case) to keep from getting the case stuck in the sizing die (carbide or no). It just makes it easer to put through the press. One can will last a long, long, long time.
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  #15  
Old 03-04-2012, 05:02 PM
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That's affirmative on lubing .30 carbine cases, even with carbide dies. Some of the cases are very thick and tough as said above. It is much simpler to just go ahead and lube them all lightly, although some recommend lubing every other one.
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  #16  
Old 03-04-2012, 06:29 PM
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Smile

I use Hornady one shot or the Dillon lube should that be OK?? I have new RCBS carbide dies working on a Dillon 550
I also reload 375 WIN and it you don't lube them well it's pain too

thanks for the info keep it coming

Rick

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  #17  
Old 03-04-2012, 07:11 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by COSteve View Post
Cast bullets in an M1 Carbine can cause you issues with the gas piston freezing from lead buildup.
This is true if the bullet is not of the correct size and or the lube isn't correct. Also finding a good powder and charge help reduce leading. Keeping an eye on the rifling when cleaning will steer you in the right direction. A little trial to find what works pays off in savings on bullets cost. Plus its a lot of fun.
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  #18  
Old 03-05-2012, 04:47 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RACWIN375 View Post
I use Hornady one shot or the Dillon lube should that be OK?? I have new RCBS carbide dies working on a Dillon 550
I also reload 375 WIN and it you don't lube them well it's pain too

thanks for the info keep it coming

Rick

Yes, the One-shot or Dillon spray should work fine, just be sure you are coating them uniformly.

I will tell you right now that there is no way I would load 30 Carbine on a Dillon 550. The case length is simply too critical and unlike straight-walled pistol rounds, they DO grow!

If that is the only press you have, treat it like a single-stage, for the most part, when loading this cartridge. At the very least, size all of your cases at one time, measuring them and separating into 3 different lengths.

1) 1.286" and under
2) Between 1.287" and 1.292"
3) 1.293" and over

You can try shooting short/long cases in your gun and see what results you get. Maybe yours will be more tolerant than others...but I have yet to see a semi-auto 30 Carbine that is. In general, cases that measure 1.286" or less after sizing will not fire reliably. Cases longer than 1.292" will frequently jam the action.

If you try to use the Dillon 550 to process cases from once-fired to fully loaded again, without measuring case lengths, you will most likely wind up with some FTF's and some jams. Those that are just barely too long, but still let the action close, will be forcing the case mouth into the end of the chamber, possibly driving pressures up. Even if that doesn't occur, the wasted components from short rounds and the hassle of regular jam ups is more headache than you'll want to deal with.

Batch load your 30 carbine cases, measuring each one, every time. Or, pay through the nose for factory ammo. :twocents:
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  #19  
Old 03-05-2012, 05:33 AM
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broom_jm
very good info
how about using a crip on this load
I have a lee factory crimp die coming

thank you for the info

Rick

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  #20  
Old 03-05-2012, 08:38 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RACWIN375 View Post
broom_jm
very good info
how about using a crip on this load
I have a lee factory crimp die coming

thank you for the info

Rick

In my experience, a crimp has not been needed. If you DO use one, it needs to be a slight taper crimp or the type of crimp the Lee FCD will provide. I've loaded several thousand 30 carbine rounds to this point and not used a crimp on any of them.
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