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  #1  
Old 04-28-2012, 06:55 PM
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decapping military brass


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I have military cases and i want to decap them. My die isRCBS 30-06 sizing die and ive broke or bent three decapping pins so far. any suggestionswould be appreciated also what can I use to kill live primmers? thankyou Mister c.
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Old 04-28-2012, 07:25 PM
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you should use a universal decaping Die RCBS has a Heavy duty one BUT people say the Lee universal decaping Die is stronger and cheaper

are you talking about the primers you decap??? if so I think putting them in an oil bath will work (QT motor oil)

Rick
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Old 04-28-2012, 07:59 PM
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I've got the RCBS HD decapper. Never had a pin break on it but it can only be used on .270? and bigger. While it will work on your 30-06 it won't work, for example, on a .223 or 25-06.

Any thing oil based will kill a primer, like you've akready been told.
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Old 04-28-2012, 08:13 PM
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decapping military brass

.I have both Universal decapping dies, the Lee has a collet that holds the decapping pin and the decapping pin will move into the collet so it doesn't break if set correctly, when this happens you loosen the collet, push the decapping pin flush with the top of the collet and tighten the collet.
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Old 04-29-2012, 02:44 AM
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The Lee die with the sliding collet system is real nice. It has saved me from breaking dies when I accidently get a Berdan primer in the mix. And ... it works with all size cases.
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Old 04-29-2012, 05:16 AM
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It was probably just luck but the last time I decapped military cases, I ran 500 of them without a hitch with my RCBS 30-06 sizing die. One thing I do is make sure I've entered the flash hole before completing the ram stroke.

You might call RCBS and tell them about the bent/broken decapping pins. They might just send you a package of them for free. The call costs nothing.

I never kill live primers. They're used in my plinking ammunition. YMMV
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Old 04-29-2012, 11:00 AM
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Don't assume oil will always, and instantly, kill primers. I've seen WD-40 not kill old military (corrosive) primers. Maybe it should - it didn't when I tried it. You never know.
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Old 04-29-2012, 11:08 AM
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Don't assume oil will always, and instantly, kill primers. I've seen WD-40 not kill old military (corrosive) primers. Maybe it should - it didn't when I tried it. You never know.
Isn't WD-40 silicone based?
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Old 04-29-2012, 12:28 PM
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Oil will get them. But it does not happen instantly. Needs time to wick into the priming mix. I have witnessed it on stored oily firearm left loaded.

Only sure way to kill them is to fire them.

Cheezywan
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Old 04-29-2012, 02:48 PM
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I recommend the universal Lee decapper die. I use to deprime before cleaning cases. Works for all cartridges too.

Well, maybe not for .50 cal machine gun.
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Old 04-29-2012, 03:30 PM
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It depends

I reload all kinds of military brass using my standard RCBS dies and have never had a problem. Broken decapping pins may involve Berdan primers, flash holes off center or dies improperly adjusted. Just the idle thoughts of an idle fellow. All the best...
Gil.
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  #12  
Old 04-29-2012, 04:23 PM
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I use a Lee decapper [ Decapper Base 30 Cal } for decapping military brass.I have also used my standard 30-06 RCBS dies.I think most die sets that are made for military rounds usually have a heavy duty decapping stem and pin in them.I may be wrong. Are the decapping pins bending or is the decapping stem?I knock out the primer then trim the cases to proper lenght ,then ream the primer pockets in a Wilson trimmer tool.Then I deburr the flash hole on the inside.After that I full length resize the brass.

Last edited by 264shooter; 04-29-2012 at 04:26 PM.
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  #13  
Old 04-29-2012, 04:37 PM
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decapping military brass

Kroil works real good for killing primers .
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  #14  
Old 04-29-2012, 06:20 PM
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decapping military primmers

thanks for all the info from everybody on decapping and killing primers, well appreciated........mister c.
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Old 04-29-2012, 07:09 PM
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Be sure you don't have Berdan-primed cases. You'll break decapping pins in Boxer-style deprimers from now until Doomsday. Boxer-primed cases should deprime with very little more trouble than commercial loads, although repriming can be a hassle if you don't swage the crimp out of the primer pockets.
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Old 04-30-2012, 04:10 PM
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I do not trust oil or water to "kill" primers.

Last time I tried decapping military crimped primers they started going "bang" and I will never do it again. Fired the empty primed brass and spent the extra time cleaning a barrel but not more decapping live crimped primers.

As to breaking pins. On fired military brass I routinely plan on loosing 3 decapping pins for every 100 rounds decapped -- been doing it for years and those are the averages.

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Old 05-01-2012, 08:08 AM
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Having heard the standard advice that oil or other liquids will kill primers, I have done a few experiments with various liquids, to see if they really will kill primers. The answer is, yes, eventually.
The experiment was years ago, but, best I can recall, I tried wd-40, Break Free, Hoppe's#9, Liquid Wrench, and 3 in 1 oil. WD-40 seemed to be the best primer killer, but, none of them reliably killed a primer in less than 3 days. Some primers would be killed more quickly, but not all- and sometimes, not many.
In my experiments, I put a drop of liquid directly into the cup of a loose primer (not in a cartridge case). I suspect putting some liquid in a primed case would kill primers, but not quickly.
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Old 05-01-2012, 08:18 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Barstool View Post
I do not trust oil or water to "kill" primers.

Last time I tried decapping military crimped primers they started going "bang" and I will never do it again. Fired the empty primed brass and spent the extra time cleaning a barrel but not more decapping live crimped primers.

As to breaking pins. On fired military brass I routinely plan on loosing 3 decapping pins for every 100 rounds decapped -- been doing it for years and those are the averages.

Barstool(er)

Get yourself a universal decapping die like the one made by Hornady. It has heavy duty pins and will push out crimped primers with ease. You can also decap live primers without worry as long as you push them out slowly. Sudden impacts are what set off primers. If you take it slow and easy and sneak up on them, so to speak, no worries.
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Old 05-01-2012, 08:48 AM
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Isn't WD-40 silicone based?
Fish oil, if I'm not mistaken.
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Old 05-01-2012, 10:01 AM
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Alas, you are (mistaken, that is). WD-40's got Facts & Myths page on their web site, and just past half way down on the scroll bar is the fish oil myth and what they believe the origin of it was. WD-40 actually uses specialized mineral spirits and other petroleum distillates. If you go to their MSDS link and look at the French MSDS and other MSDS's from countries whose laws require more detail in an MSDS than ours does, you'll get some of the specific compounds. Their history page is amusing, too.

I agree with idea of putting Kroil to work. PB Blaster will work, too, but it smells a lot worse. Squirt a case half full with kroil, tap it to clear air bubbles, then empty that case into the next, and so on, until they've all had some exposure to it. That should leave enough to get through over time. The Kroil should wick throughout the case and between the case and primer cup pretty well. Whether it will kill the primer or not depends on how intact its protection is, but dead or alive, the Kroil should weaken any bond that's formed between the case and primer cup, and may well weaken the primer sealant bond as well. That way the crimp is the only remaining obstacle to removal. It'll still be tough in some makes of ammo, but at least it won't be assisted by those other factors.

I find the permanent pin on the Lee universal decapper to be best on military cases. It's tougher than typical. Also, it has empty space around it in the die in case of an accidental primer firing. Work slowly and deliberately and wear safety glasses, hearing protection and gloves any time you are decapping live primers.
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