I've started thinking about it recently and I feel like going predator hunting next year. Though I've never been predator hunting (neither has my dad or grandpa in a long time), I think it would be a good experience. But there are some things I need to know first.

1.) How is predator hunting here in VA? I live in the eastern part but every year my grandpa goes to Bath County near WV.

2.) Do I need a decoy or is a predator call good enough.

3.) What kind of .243 Win. loads would you recommend (my grandpa handloads)? Keep in mind I'll be using a Remington 700 ADL from the 60s. It still shoots 1" groups @ 100 yards.

4.) Any other tips and tricks I should know?

Thanks.

__________________
- Re-Armored M91/30 Mosin Nagant made by Izhevsk in 1943
- T/C Venture .270 Win. w/ Bushnell Scope
- S&W Model 22a w/ Red Dot Sight

I think I'm doing pretty good for buying that many firearms at 15

Guess I have a couple questions of my own before I try to answer yours. Since I've never hunted in that region, is there a lot of hunting pressure in that area? Does your dad and grandpa call? Are they generally successful?

__________________
Still Learnin' as I go!

NRA Life Member

Monty is right to ask those questions. What will work in one area may not work in another, and it depends mostly on how "educated" the coyotes are in that area. They are crafty, and learn fast, so hunting pressure and methods of hunting can have huge effects on how coyotes behave. So I can tell you what works for me, here, with these coyotes, and that may or may not work for you.

Educated coyotes are very hard to call, and you will likely need to do something they don't expect in order to trick them.

What guns are appropriate also depends on type of country, education level of the dogs, and whether or not the hides are important.

Good advice will require more information about your hunting circumstances.

My dad does own a predator call so I can try to learn by watching videos and reading up on it. Around where I live there are not many coyotes or bobcats. There are a few gray foxes around here and plenty of racoons. But mostly likely I will want to hunt yotes and bobcats up in Bath County for 2 reasons.

1.) My grandpa goes up there every year for either deer or turkey season. Even though it is in vein since the coyotes are so bad up there that Bath County has put a $50+ bounty per coyote. 2.) Specifically there is a place in Jefferson or Washington National Forest (I forget which one) where it's mainly only my grandpa and his buddies that hunt there.

Also, in Bath County it's basically mountains and trees. Unless you're in the right spot you'll be lucky to get a shot past 100 yards or so.

I hope this has helped.

__________________
- Re-Armored M91/30 Mosin Nagant made by Izhevsk in 1943
- T/C Venture .270 Win. w/ Bushnell Scope
- S&W Model 22a w/ Red Dot Sight

I think I'm doing pretty good for buying that many firearms at 15

Remember, I am from Saskatchewan, and that is VERY different from Virginia. I will suggest "generalities" from which you have to pick what you think applies to you.

The number one rule is make sure there are coyotes where you are hunting them. Don't laugh; it is the most important factor for success.

You need a call. Mouth blown is fine, but requires more stealth. If the coyotes come to a sound you are making, you better be still, and cammo doesn't hurt (although it is far less important than being still.) If ranges are short, your scent plume will be an important issue. Scent "blocking" sprays, washes and clothing will not work. You must control how your scent travels, and make sure they can't circle down wind without being seen. Two guys, one to call and one to cover the approaches from another angle, work very well. The dogs are trying to identify the sound, and often pay less attention to other directions. The one advantage electronic calls give is to put the dog's attention where you aren't.

I don't find decoys worth the effort, but our coyotes are not hunted hard. I have seen decoys work, and they may be worth it to you, but we hunt by walking a lot, and I just don't want to carry one.

If I was to buy a pure coyote rifle at this point, it would be a .243. If hides are not important, any rifle from the .204 on up will work at short ranges. At less than 100 yards, the only factor you need consider is how much hide damage are you willing to tolerate. Start with whatever you have.

Use types of calls no one else is using on them. Get to your calling spot undetected. No talking. No slamming vehicle doors. No skylining or wandering through open spaces. Stick to edges. No talking. Watch the wind, and never allow your odor to move into the area to which you are calling. We call with mouth calls in bursts of about 30-45 seconds, and then wait for about 5 minutes. Repeat. If 20 minutes goes by without a coyote, we move. No talking.

During the "wait" times, really, really, really pay attention. Really. Hundreds (it must be by now) of times, I have suddenly realized a coyote was watching me, and probably had been for some time. Those ones are very hard to shoot. You need to see the coyote long before he knows you are there. Pay attention! No talking.

Learn to shoot. A coyote is actually a very small target.

Does that help or raise any questions?

You answered all of my questions. I guess since I live in VA I'll try to find some additional tips for this area when it comes to predator hunting. Thanks.

__________________
- Re-Armored M91/30 Mosin Nagant made by Izhevsk in 1943
- T/C Venture .270 Win. w/ Bushnell Scope
- S&W Model 22a w/ Red Dot Sight

I think I'm doing pretty good for buying that many firearms at 15

Saskshooter covered it pretty well. Only a couple things I might add. My most productive time is usually before sunrise. Watch the other game you happen to see. Most of the time they will realize a coyote is around before i do. There has been several times I raised from a set only to spook a coyote who had been watching me.
What Sashshooter said about a partner is good advice, you can't watch all the approachs yourself. Make sure you are close enough to get the others attention if need be without making any noise. I like being able to see without exposing a profile, so use what you have around you to blend in. Stillness and scent control are the key elements.

__________________
Still Learnin' as I go!

NRA Life Member

Gun Nut I am over here in the UK but have spent many happy hours calling coyotes, greys, and evn the odd masked marauder and hog on occasion down in Texas with one scary occasion with an eagle owl.
ALL of the info given by Sas and Monty is absolutely the minimum you need to have in mind. I have always been amazed how a coyote can stand and look without being seen. There coats are such good camo, particularly in the brush and mesquite down in Texas. You mention trees, lots of 'em. Here in the UK I use high seats against a tree when calling or waiting for foxes to show. If your trees are the nice straight kind you may be able to use a tree climber seat. Not only does this give you a better field of view, but I find the fox here doesn't look up and on occasion have had them come and sit right under the seat. I have watched many youtube vids of calling in the US and Canada but never seen it done from a high seat. Finally in Texas I always took note of any spot a coyote had a drop, because very often like our foxes they had a patrol circuit and you would see them emerge from the same spot on a regular patrol. Just sitting quietly in such a place and watching is sometimes the best idea. May be something you should bear in mind. Best of luck and lets see some pics of your results.