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  #1  
Old 02-15-2004, 06:01 PM
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Location: Rocklin, California
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Smoothing lever action


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I have a new Marlin 1894C 38/357 and was wanted to know how difficult is it to smooth up the action. I tried a Marlin "factory tuned" Cowboy Action Shooter lever action at a gun store yesterday and there was quite a difference.

TIA
Tim
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  #2  
Old 02-15-2004, 06:20 PM
The Troll Whisperer (Moderator)
 
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Tim -

If your levergun is new or fairly new, a lot of cycling the lever and bolt will wear-lap the action to the point it will smooth up considerably. Know some guys who sit watching TV and stroke the lever, much to their wive's annoyance! That will be cheaper than trying to buy custom parts to slick it up.
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  #3  
Old 02-16-2004, 02:52 PM
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Here is a good place to start. www.marauder13.homestead.com/irons.html
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  #4  
Old 02-16-2004, 03:51 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Swany
Here is a good place to start. www.marauder13.homestead.com/irons.html
Swany


Excellent article Swany! I bookmarked that off the ole MT forum for future helps.

I'm one of those that sit on the couch fiddling with the guide gun. There's a couple of rough spots I'll get around to smoothing but for now it's more fun to cycle the action.....by the way it does help.

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  #5  
Old 02-16-2004, 04:44 PM
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What I do when I get a new lever is work the action about a 100-200 cycles a day for 5-7 days. You would be surprised at how much this slicks up the action. It doesn't hurt to take it down and polish the internals per the website mentioned either. I do both and it's amazing the difference. I don't even shoot mine until I have done the above procedures.
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  #6  
Old 02-16-2004, 08:17 PM
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Thanks for all your suggestions. Took the lever off and removed the bolt for the first time this evening. Removed some burrs on the bottom of the bolt that were scratching the carrier assembly where it rides under the bolt. Also touched up the carrier assembly edge where is was rough with some 600 grit sandpaper. Still, it had a spot of resistance that I discovered was due to the hammer being depressed. Likely too strong a spring as mentioned on the websight. Confirmed this by pressing the hammer all the way down and cycling the action, the was now smooth.

Thanks again,
Tim
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  #7  
Old 02-17-2004, 03:11 AM
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I typically do a complete disassembly and inspect each component Removing any obvious burrs with a flat trigger stone. I then polish components with krokus cloth. I tend to stay away from trigger, sear, and hammer egagement surfaces. I then slather the bolt and lever areas with J-B bore cleaner when I put everything back together and cycle the snot out of the action. Tear it back down, thoroughly clean and lube, and put it back together.
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  #8  
Old 02-17-2004, 01:07 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kdub
Tim -

If your levergun is new or fairly new, a lot of cycling the lever and bolt will wear-lap the action to the point it will smooth up considerably. Know some guys who sit watching TV and stroke the lever, much to their wive's annoyance! That will be cheaper than trying to buy custom parts to slick it up.
kdub,
My wife and I sometimes watch old Gunsmoke reruns. Sounds like a perfect way to watch Marshall Dillon and smooth out the action at the same time. <G>
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  #9  
Old 02-17-2004, 01:10 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BABore
I typically do a complete disassembly and inspect each component Removing any obvious burrs with a flat trigger stone. I then polish components with krokus cloth. I tend to stay away from trigger, sear, and hammer egagement surfaces. I then slather the bolt and lever areas with J-B bore cleaner when I put everything back together and cycle the snot out of the action. Tear it back down, thoroughly clean and lube, and put it back together.
BABore, just how difficult would it be to break down a Winchester Model 94? Looks like LOTS of pieces to me.

Thanks and regards,
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  #10  
Old 02-17-2004, 01:23 PM
The Troll Whisperer (Moderator)
 
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The Marlin lever actions are pretty easy to break down to get at the lever and bolt. The Winchester is a different matter - best to leave it alone unless you want something to occupy your time for a while. Probably better off watching the Gunsmoke serials and just working the lever!
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  #11  
Old 02-18-2004, 03:46 AM
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Fast Draw,

Never had the displeasure of tearing down a "94". If I had the itch to test my patience and blood pressure, I do the following;

Clear the bench top
Have a good exploded view
Use a notepad for sketches or digital camera
Go real slow, work on subassemblies one at a time
Keep notes on disassembly order
Know when to back off and take a break

If you get stumped you can also;

Call a shooting buddy for a "I told you so dumb a@#".
Head to the local smithy. Be sure to bring batter for the crow your going to be eating.
Lock yourself in your gun room with your "94", a pistol and one bullet. Don't come out until your finished.
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  #12  
Old 02-18-2004, 09:51 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BABore
Fast Draw,

Never had the displeasure of tearing down a "94". If I had the itch to test my patience and blood pressure, I do the following;

Clear the bench top
Have a good exploded view
Use a notepad for sketches or digital camera
Go real slow, work on subassemblies one at a time
Keep notes on disassembly order
Know when to back off and take a break

If you get stumped you can also;

Call a shooting buddy for a "I told you so dumb a@#".
Head to the local smithy. Be sure to bring batter for the crow your going to be eating.
Lock yourself in your gun room with your "94", a pistol and one bullet. Don't come out until your finished.
BABore,
Well, come to think about it this lever gun looks pretty clean to me!!!
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  #13  
Old 02-19-2004, 06:52 AM
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Fastdraw:

Altho the Winnie is not nearly as easy as the Marlin, They're not that hard, especially the rebounding hammer versions where the hammer, trigger assy. mainspring and lower tang all come out as a single unit. I have put some instructions down to act a general guideline. Others may feel free to edit or add their own comments.

Please, please make sure you have a good set of properly fitting screwdrivers.

Winchester 94Takedown:

1) Remove the rear butt stock screw on the receiver tang and remove the butt stock
2) On those earlier Winnies that do not have the rebounding hammer, loosen hammer screw. Now push down on the hammer and remove the screw, then pull hammer out and remove the spring and lower tang by pulling straight back. See following for rebounding hammer versions or go to step 4

3) On rebounding hammer versions make sure hammer is not cocked. Remove hammer screw. The lower tang, trigger and hammer come out as a single unit. Jockey and rotate to remove.
4) Loosen and take out the large screw on the top left side of the receiver and from the right side, push the pin out to the left that holds the lever in with a nail or small drill.
5) Remove the screw for the lifter.
6) Remove the forward lever screw on the bottom of the lever tang. You can now remove the lever cross pin. Pull the lever down and forward off the locking block. Pull the bolt straight out to the rear.

Re-assembly is the reverse sequence:
1) First in goes the bolt.
2) Then the locking block.
3) Now the lifter and screw. Tighten same.
4) Install the lever, slipping on over the bottom of the locking block. Then make sure that the tip/nose of the lever is in the slot in the bolt.
5) Reinsert the pivot pin, on the bottom of the receiver, for lever/tang assembly. and retighten the retaining screw
6) Make sure the bolt is pushed forward all the way, and then insert the pin for the bolt thru the hole in the bolt to secure the lever. You may have to jockey the lever to get the forward tip of the lever to line up with its screw hole to get the pin in..
7) Replace the retaining screw on the left side of the receiver.
8) On the rebounding hammer version, reinsert the hammer, lower tang and trigger assembly. In the case of the non-rebounding hammer version go to step 9.
9) Now push the hammer in and then the hammers screw then tighten that up.
10) Now you can put the stock back on and you are done.

After you do it once or twice it becomes second nature.
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  #14  
Old 02-19-2004, 05:10 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oaklane
Fastdraw:

Altho the Winnie is not nearly as easy as the Marlin, They're not that hard, especially the rebounding hammer versions where the hammer, trigger assy. mainspring and lower tang all come out as a single unit. I have put some instructions down to act a general guideline. Others may feel free to edit or add their own comments.

Please, please make sure you have a good set of properly fitting screwdrivers.

Winchester 94Takedown:

1) Remove the rear butt stock screw on the receiver tang and remove the butt stock
2) On those earlier Winnies that do not have the rebounding hammer, loosen hammer screw. Now push down on the hammer and remove the screw, then pull hammer out and remove the spring and lower tang by pulling straight back. See following for rebounding hammer versions or go to step 4

3) On rebounding hammer versions make sure hammer is not cocked. Remove hammer screw. The lower tang, trigger and hammer come out as a single unit. Jockey and rotate to remove.
4) Loosen and take out the large screw on the top left side of the receiver and from the right side, push the pin out to the left that holds the lever in with a nail or small drill.
5) Remove the screw for the lifter.
6) Remove the forward lever screw on the bottom of the lever tang. You can now remove the lever cross pin. Pull the lever down and forward off the locking block. Pull the bolt straight out to the rear.

Re-assembly is the reverse sequence:
1) First in goes the bolt.
2) Then the locking block.
3) Now the lifter and screw. Tighten same.
4) Install the lever, slipping on over the bottom of the locking block. Then make sure that the tip/nose of the lever is in the slot in the bolt.
5) Reinsert the pivot pin, on the bottom of the receiver, for lever/tang assembly. and retighten the retaining screw
6) Make sure the bolt is pushed forward all the way, and then insert the pin for the bolt thru the hole in the bolt to secure the lever. You may have to jockey the lever to get the forward tip of the lever to line up with its screw hole to get the pin in..
7) Replace the retaining screw on the left side of the receiver.
8) On the rebounding hammer version, reinsert the hammer, lower tang and trigger assembly. In the case of the non-rebounding hammer version go to step 9.
9) Now push the hammer in and then the hammers screw then tighten that up.
10) Now you can put the stock back on and you are done.

After you do it once or twice it becomes second nature.
Thanks for your reply... Now for the embarassing part. How do I know if I have a "rebounding hammer version" for my 20 year old Winchester 94? Thanks.

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  #15  
Old 02-20-2004, 02:40 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fastdraw
Thanks for your reply... Now for the embarassing part. How do I know if I have a "rebounding hammer version" for my 20 year old Winchester 94? Thanks.


If it's got a safety notch at half cock, then you DON"T have the rebounding hammer version.
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