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  #1  
Old 11-18-2008, 03:18 PM
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cleaning oil out of barrel


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after cleaning and oiling the barrel after use, do I need to clean the oil out before loading again? thanks
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  #2  
Old 11-18-2008, 03:43 PM
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I used to always run a dry patch down the barrel before loading. I don't use oil anymore, though. I got a tube of TC Bore Butter and use that. It's the same thing that is used on pre-lubed patches. Stops rust and is better for the bore because it won't gum up with the burnt black powder.
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  #3  
Old 11-18-2008, 04:36 PM
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I agree with using dry patches

Also use a safety pin or paper clip pick to clear the touch hole bushing or nipple of debris. All the best...
Gil
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Old 11-19-2008, 03:33 AM
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For Oil free

If you really want to make sure that the bbl is oil free,give it several shots of NAPA brand brake cleaner.

I never,ever,use any kind of oil in my bbl. Nothing that could have any effect on the powder that goes down it. Cleaner only,no lubes.

Also for better shot groups(consistancy),clean the same way every time. -----pruhdlr
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  #5  
Old 11-19-2008, 07:22 AM
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I use gun oil all the time in my rifles. My favorite is Birchwood Casey Sheath. Why would I not use a quality gun oil in a firearm? Bore Butter is a wax, if you trap any moisture under that wax, your barrel will rust at that point. Bore Butter must also be removed from time to time out of the barrel. If not it will build up and effect the accuracy. Those that use bore butter, I say to them.. your rifle. Do what you want. You will not see any of that stuff in my rifles.

To remove the gun oil before loading, take a patch and apply some isopropyl alcohol. Then swab the bore with that. It will remove the coating of oil from the bore. Then a couple dry patches. I then like to push a dry patch to the bottom of the bore and pop a primer through it. This will clear the fire channel. Now you can load on a clean oil free barrel.
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  #6  
Old 11-19-2008, 07:57 AM
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It's a lot easier to remove oil than to remove rust. I find very few used muzzleloaders which don't have rust pitted bores. Always thoroughly clean and oil your rifle after firing even one shot. Failure to do so will destroy a rifle very quickly. For the final protective coat to the bore I use CLP or Ballistol but there are many good rust protectors, T/C bore butter definitely NOT being one of them.
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Old 11-19-2008, 12:53 PM
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I'm just trying to figure out a good way of preventing rust, since that seems to be a big issue with the barrels. can I use graphite in the barrel? I don't believe that gunks up. thanks again.
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  #8  
Old 11-19-2008, 02:03 PM
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Use the alcohol to clean any residual oil from the bore before loading with black powder. After shooting, I clean and then wipe down good with Ballistol, a non-petroleum oil. This also makes a good patch lube.
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  #9  
Old 11-19-2008, 03:41 PM
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chinoboy

The way to prevent rust in a muzzleloader is to properly clean it after every use. I use hot soapy water, hot water, dry patches and oil patches. If the gun is to be stored, a light coating of gun grease inside and out will prevent rust. All the best...
Gil
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  #10  
Old 11-20-2008, 07:51 AM
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Smile

We hear a lot today like "oh never put any petroleum product in a muzzleloader, it will leave a nasty black tar". we hear that mostly from folks trying to market their own "wonder lube", "nature lube" or "goose grease". I started shooting muzzleloaders back in the 1950's and we didn't know any better. We cleaned with hot soapy water, dried and oiled the bore with whatever gun oil or three-in-one oil we had. And guess what, we never had any problems with "black tar" either. I still follow the same procedure today and I still never have seen this mysterious black tar. I don't even know what they're talking about because I've never seen it.
Now if you load up and fire with oil dripping out of the bore you may indeed have some trouble. It is just common sense to run dry patches down the bore and a pipe cleaner through the flash hole to dry out any oil before loading, just to prevent misfires if nothing else.
If you just follow that basic common sense approach you will never have a problem with petroleum products and by the way, Ballistol is petroleum based, it is just refined mineral oil, which is petroleum.
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  #11  
Old 11-20-2008, 09:37 AM
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I use "Gun Scrubber"
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  #12  
Old 11-20-2008, 01:33 PM
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thanks everyone for your inputs. guess everyone has their own personal way of doing things. I'll take coyotejoe's advice and use some common sense. thanks again.
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  #13  
Old 12-01-2008, 10:49 AM
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I have a two bench guns that were built in '78 and the bores are as shinny and slick as the day I received them from the maker. I clean them with a solution of 1 gallon distilled water, 1 oz each of Ivory dish soap, water soluble oil and hydrogen peroxide, dry the barrel then use Rig or Clenzoil. I prefer Rig but used Clenzoil until I found Rig. Be advised they stopped manufacturing Rig and it is getting hard to find. I wipe the barrels with a couple of dry patches and snap a couple of caps when getting ready to shoot. I have been shooting muzzle loaders for over 30 years and the simple things the old timers did still work the best.
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  #14  
Old 12-04-2008, 05:32 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rdm3797 View Post
I have a two bench guns that were built in '78 and the bores are as shinny and slick as the day I received them from the maker. I clean them with a solution of 1 gallon distilled water, 1 oz each of Ivory dish soap, water soluble oil and hydrogen peroxide, dry the barrel then use Rig or Clenzoil. I prefer Rig but used Clenzoil until I found Rig. Be advised they stopped manufacturing Rig and it is getting hard to find. I wipe the barrels with a couple of dry patches and snap a couple of caps when getting ready to shoot. I have been shooting muzzle loaders for over 30 years and the simple things the old timers did still work the best.
Why is it that we don't believe or listen to the old-timers

until

we're almost old-timers ourselves?

Comments: the scrubber stuff if basically (if not exactly) brake cleaner and brake cleaner leaves zero rust protection.

Isopropyl alcohol commonly comes in 3 strengths in this area: 50, 70, and 91%. Look for the 91--the balance of those percentages are water.

Just in case someone isn't sure about the evil we are trying to avert (rusty bores), here's the deal as I unnerstand it: Barrel (carbon) steel readily oxidizes (rusts) in the presence of oxidizers-water/o2 being the most common one. The residuals of combustion in the bore add lots of nasty, more-aggressive oxidizers (especially in BP) plus the residues give water a place to collect.

It is these byproducts of powder/propellant that, if left in the bore, are going to cause fast-acting, pit-making rust. Once this crud is thoroughly removed, there is not too much to worry about. Anything short of heavy condensation (from temp inversion for example) or exposure to heavy precipitation will simply lead to a light surface rust on unprotected metal.

So I say get it righteously clean, get it completely dry, and lightly oil or not-depending on personal preference, local weather, and when the next round will be loaded.

Yes, I ruined a bbl once...nevermore.
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  #15  
Old 12-05-2008, 11:27 AM
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more shooters have given up black powder because of stuff like ox yoke wonder lube, that makes patches stick in the barrel, hang up ramrods etc. Alchol, hydrogen peroxide and murphys oil soap have been using it for more than 25 years. Cheap and works. Elglide
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  #16  
Old 12-05-2008, 12:13 PM
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A cleaning solution called MAP which is a mix of Murphy's oil soap, isopropyl alcohol, and hydrogen peroxide has been used for years to clean muzzleloaders. You just have to be careful because peroxide can cause flash rusting.. But the stuff does work. I normally mix it 20%, 40% & 40%.
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