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Old 06-24-2009, 08:52 PM
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Different Types of Rifling...


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When looking for muzzleloader how important is the method the mfg uses to do the rifling ???
etho
The bore in my CVA Optima Pro seems to be very "wavy" to the naked eye when I peak down the bore.
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Old 06-25-2009, 07:01 AM
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http://bettincustomguns.com/Technica...techniques.htm

this might explain it.
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Old 06-25-2009, 02:57 PM
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Very informative link there. Regarding hammer forged barrels: Parker Hale has gone out of business but they had produced cold hammer forged barrels with Whitworth, Henry, and Rigby rifling. Buying a well kept Parker Hale replica or barrel may be smart. They are only going to get more and more rare. Joseph Whitworth was more of an inventor and engineer than anything else. He came up with some pretty cool things involving steel. Sorry for going off on a tangent.

http://www.civilwarguns.com/9602b.html
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Joseph_Whitworth
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Old 07-01-2009, 03:02 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Quicksilver147 View Post
When looking for muzzleloader how important is the method the mfg uses to do the rifling ???
etho
The bore in my CVA Optima Pro seems to be very "wavy" to the naked eye when I peak down the bore.

If it "looks wavy" than most likely it "is wavy".

The rifling "method" is only one-third of the question, the second-third of the question is overall "quality" and the final-third is performance expectations.

The methods used to rifle barrels are:
Button
Broach
Hammer forge
Single-point cut
Electro-etch

Each process has its own unique characteristics and they are listed in their order of use-volume for all barrels, not just ML barrels. Button is the fastest, cheapest and most prone to have heat/stress issues. Broach cutting also induces a considerable amount of stress into the barrel and it's only as good as the cutter quality, the process used as well as the pre-rifling work and post rifling work. Hammer forge is most common to military weapons for the speed of the operation. Electro-etch is relatively new but has advantages.

Broach cut and single-point cut are not the same. Single-point cut makes one groove at a time and requires hundreds of passes of the cutter to achieve full groove depth. Aside from Electro-etch, Single-Point produces the least amount of stress and normally the best finish in the barrel. Broaching cuts all the grooves to their final depth in a single pass; the shorter the broach, the more stress it induces into the barrel - both broach and button processes are susceptible to chatter, binding and quality issues with the blank.
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Old 07-25-2009, 11:09 AM
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I guess it makes some difference, but I have seen the originals of the bygone era more than hold their own against the modern guns. We have bore scoped a few originals and there is nothing really uniform about the lands and grooves other than they are going in the same direction. Pope developed the gain twist for the Stevens company and they were touted as the most accurate of the day. Some rifles were cut deep for patched roundballs and theory supposed that the deeper grooves would allow for more fouling buildup before accuracy suffered and allowed for different thickness of patches. I have an original Jake Painter flint gun that was built locally somewhere in the 1830's. I don't shoot it very often, but the bore looks like a washboard with places in the barrel where the grooves almost disappear. The old gun hits right on the sights from the bench at 40 yards and the caliber is about a .33. It does what it was designed to do - bring home the game that gets within range. I guess you just have to play around with loads and bullets until you find what works best.
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