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Old 03-25-2011, 03:42 AM
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Question hunter hawken 50 cal. breech plug


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I am new to bp have shot a couple of times. I would like to know how to remove the breech plug for easy cleaning. It is a hunter hawkens 50cal cva precution cap

Last edited by racer80w; 03-25-2011 at 03:47 AM. Reason: more info
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Old 03-25-2011, 06:25 AM
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Location: Wisconsin
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The breech plug does not come out of traditional rifles in most cases. There are a few that have a removable plug like the T/C Firestorm, Traditions PA Pellet, and RMC Accusport but for the most part, they are stuck in place. So do not attempt to take them out. You only damage them.

To clean the rifle...

Remove the wedge pin that holds the barrel to the stock. Cock the hammer to half or full and then grabbing the muzzle end of the barrel lift up to about 45º and pull forward. This will slide the hooked or drum button style breech hook out of the tang. Lift the barrel out and set that aside for now.

Take a patch and apply some Windex, Simple Green, Soap and Water, Black Powder cleaner, (some kind of cleaner) to the patch. Wipe off the lock face and and slide that patch behind the hammer and scrub the back side of the hammer. I take Q tips and dip them in cleaner and scrub the nose of the hammer out. Be sure there are no stuck caps in there or it takes for ever to clean. Now with another patch wipe out the inside of the stock and tang area. You can now set that off to the side.

Get a can, bucket, tub, something. I use a coffee can. Fill it with very hot water and a squirt of dish soap. Set that on the ground and put the breech end of the barrel into the water. The water level must be over the nipple area. Now dip a patch in the water, lay that over the muzzle, and push the cleaning jag through that. Slowly, work that wet patch down the bore, pumping water through the barrel. You will see indications of the water jet coming through the nipple in the suds. Pump that real good in there. Remove it and lift the barrel out of the water and let it drain.

Now remove the nipple. Since the water was forced through that, you have cleaned that. With the open treads, put that back in the water and do about three water patches like you did before through the barrel. You will notice that they are coming out clean. That's a good sign.

Drain the water out of it. I take the barrel outside and pour boiling or at least very hot water through it to rinse any soap and chunks that might still be in the barrel. Bring it back to the bench, I apply isopropyl alcohol to a patch and swab that hot barrel. I do this a couple times. You will note that some times the alcohol patch comes out gray. That is normally dirty water. Just keep that up for a couple patches. Now start running dry patches down the barrel until YOU ARE SURE THE BARREL IS DRY.

The patches are clean, the bore is clean, and now is the time to apply oil to a patch and swab the bore of the rifle. This will protect the bore. Take a water patch if you like and wipe the bolster/drum nipple area clean of fouling. I like to push a Q tip carefully into that area and twist it counter clockwise. This will clean and dry the bolster.

Clean the outside of the nipple you removed. You can apply some anti seize to the thread (very small dab) and then replace that. With the oiled patch you were using, wipe the whole barrel and area off. Now return the barrel to the stock like you took it out. Wipe off the wedge pin and replace that right to left.

Wipe the rifle off and you are done. You can put a drop of oil in the trigger area if you like. And maybe if you shoot a lot or suspect fouling going behind the lock plate, take that off and clean the back of the lock plate and oil that up.

No need to take the breech plug out.



TRADITIONAL RIFLE… Lets prepare it to shoot.


Make sure the rifle is clean and empty. So take a patch, lightly apply some isopropyl alcohol and swab the bore of the rifle. When you swab, put the patch over the end of the barrel and push the ramrod with the cleaning/loading jag into the patch. As you work the patch down the bore, work the patch in short strokes. Work from the muzzle to the breech. This is done in the beginning to remove any gun oils in the barrel. After the damp patch, then work two dry patches through the bore. With a dry patch pushed down to the breech, put a #11 cap or musket cap, which ever one your rifle takes, and pop that cap. Now pull that dry patch and check for burn marks on the patch. If you see none, do it again. Once you see the burn mark, I like to pop one more cap. Now you are ready to load the rifle.


Measure out the amount of powder you wish to shoot in your rifle. You can pour the powder from the jug into a powder measure, but never pour from the jug into the barrel of the rifle. So now you have a measured charge of powder down the barrel. Take a patch and if it is not pre lubed, apply the lube to it. Set that over the muzzle of the bore. Now put a round ball onto the patch. With the short starter, knock that ball under the crown. Now with the long nose of the short starter, push the patch and ball as deep as you can, into the barrel. Finish seating the ball and patch with the ramrod.

If you are shooting conical bullets, after you have dumped the powder, put the lubed conical (if the conical requires lube) and with the short starter, drive that conical as deep as you can into the bore. Now finish seating the conical onto the powder charge. Make sure you do so firmly.

Now cock the hammer of the rifle back. And place a cap or musket cap onto the nipple. Carefully lower the hammer down to half cock. Once you cock that rifle it is ready to fire.
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Old 03-25-2011, 02:58 PM
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Join Date: Mar 2007
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cayugad nailed it

He has given very good advice and I agree with everything he said. Take care...
Oberndorf
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