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  #1  
Old 06-30-2011, 05:44 PM
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Herters U9, Opinions?


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My father was going through his closet the other day and decided he needed to free up the space that his ole Herters U9 (.270 Win.) was occupying, so he graciously passed it on to me. Admittedly I had never even heard of Herters... Now I know that they're not "top o the line" firearms by any means but from what I've gathered so far they weren't bottom of the barrel either. On the plus side, this one has had exactly 35 rounds through it and is like brand new.

Unfortunately it is a right-handed rifle and I'm the oddball "lefty" of the family. I can deal with the right-handed bolt but the top ridge of the cheek rest digging into my face is uncomfortable, to say the very least...

This will be the first bolt-action I've owned and my knowledge is slim, so I would really appreciate some input as to what my options are.

1) I'm assuming I'll have to change the stock out and see no chance of finding an original lefty or aftermarket stock for this particular rifle, maybe i'm wrong?

2) What (roughly, of course) would it cost to have a custom stock fabricated for it? Nothing too fancy.

3) Would a composite stock be totally out of the question or just plain impractical?

4)If a custom stock is the way to go, any advice on where to purchase from? (I'm in Ohio)

From what I gather the action is probably a BSA "monarch" (stamped "made in England) though I'm not 100% on that either. It's my understanding that the U9's came with the BSA action and the J9's with a 98 Mauser type.


Any input is appreciated and please excuse the ignorance, I'm here to learn
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  #2  
Old 06-30-2011, 08:01 PM
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A left-handed stock is going to accommodate the bolt handle and probably the ejection port on the left. It won't fit a right-handed action.

I assume you have a monte carlo style cheek piece that you are objecting to. A plain stock should be symmetrical where your cheek rests.
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  #3  
Old 07-01-2011, 01:36 AM
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Welcome to the Forum

Sounds like you have a decent rifle. You could alter the cheekpiece with a wood rasp and refinish the stock area. I have done this to a few right hand stocks because I shoot off the left shoulder. Take care...
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  #4  
Old 07-01-2011, 04:37 AM
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They were built on Mauser actions. No telling the original source. If it has a thumb cut in the left receiver wall, it's probably an old military action. If not then it's a commercial action. Possibly Belgian or Yugoslavian, either would be good.

I agree that you just need a plain aftermarket stock with no rollover cheek rest. Good luck and enjoy.
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  #5  
Old 07-01-2011, 05:19 AM
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Herter's stock style back then was rather 'California' , with the rollover cheekpiece you've described. Someone with some experience at stockmaking could remove the rollover. You would then have a Monte Carlo style stock, but you could shoot it left handed.
Removing the entire cheekpiece would result in a stock with an excessive amount of drop, so, you want to remove the rollover, not the entire cheekpiece.
Herters sold the 2 rifle models U9 and J9. One was a BSA, and the other was a commercial 98 Mauser. I can never remember which model number goes with which one. Both were good rifles, IMO.
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  #6  
Old 07-01-2011, 06:48 AM
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Either action is a quality one IMHO. I think I might simply figure finding a large ring walnut Mauser stock made by Boyds or any number of other synthetic stock makers and installing it to have a ambidextrous stock for shooting. I'm sure you can find one for under $100. Then, I'd put the original stock on GunsAmerica or E-bay and sell it or keep it for future shooters who might be righty and like the "different" style.
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  #7  
Old 07-01-2011, 09:16 AM
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Thank you all for the input, I'm still unsure on a few things though. I've included pics of the rifle/action in case it may help solve some of the issues i'm having.

I have no reason to believe this is a Mauser action, as it was manufactured by BSA, could I still follow Tnhunter's advice and get a "large ring walnut Mauser stock" ?

It is my understanding I need to have a custom stock made for this exact action, and even then I will have to modify it to get it to fit properly?

I don't think I want to modify the original stock unless the alternative will be a costly pain in the rear.

Yep, I'm still lost...












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  #8  
Old 07-01-2011, 09:32 AM
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Bought several of the J9 BSA barreled actions from Herter's when they were being dumped prior to the '68 GCA. Fine rifles - excellent shooters.

If you don't want to mess with the original stock, check around the various stock makers (Google works great for this) to see if anyone has them for the BSA. Find one with a standard buttstock (without Monte Carlo or rollover), as it appears this is used with iron sights only. If you intend to scope it, get a Monte Carlo type to elevate the cheek weld properly.

Sure wish I hadn't traded those old Herter's - but then again, that goes for the many that likewise were traded off.
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  #9  
Old 07-01-2011, 09:57 AM
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I know a BSA collector that would nearly die to have that rifle!! BSA's are top of the line across the pond and very sought after. Most things "Herters" were top of the line or as near to that as could be had for that time.

'Twas me I'd find an after market stock that you could shoot and keep the pretty wood as it is. One of your children may not have your unfortunate affliction and be able to shoot it right handed.

That is one sweeeeet looking rifle.
MmMmMMMM!!

RJ
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  #10  
Old 07-01-2011, 10:20 AM
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Beautiful gun Chrispy, that stock looks a whole lot like a Weatherby to me. Anyway congrats and have fun with it.
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  #11  
Old 07-01-2011, 08:38 PM
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RJ and Fred: I appreciate your compliments gentleman, and RJ if I ever decide to sell it I'll surely let you know And I agree about the original stock, it's not going anywhere.


Kdub: Everything I've read tells me that these are indeed great shooters and I'm happy to have it, will be even more so when I can finally shoot it properly! Unfortunately, it appears that my options are fewer than I originally thought...after about 3 solid hours of scouring the web I've come up with one site that offers a stock for this particular action

Richards Microfit Gunstocks Inc.

http://rifle-stocks.com/


They only provide a 96% "semi-inlet" for it though, which leads me to my next question(s)

How precise must I be in the fitting of the action? I'd like to think I'm a pretty competent fella, good with my hands, and they make it sound easy enough...how badly could I possibly mess it up?

How necessary is glass bedding?

I definitely want to put an optic on it as well, is a stock with a high comb/cheekrest absolutely necessary?


Again, truly sorry for the barrage of questions...please bare with me
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  #12  
Old 07-02-2011, 09:48 AM
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Have done a couple of Richards Microfit stocks and found they do, indeed, need some TLC in the fit and mainly, the exterior finishing. Being a competent handyman, you should be able to complete all required finishing work with little sweat. Basic hand tools and a Dremel come in handy. Final shaping to fit your particular hold require wood rasps and varying degrees of sandpaper.

Glass bedding isn't absolutely necessary. that's something you can determine after regular bedding and accuracy shooting. It is easier to do when first working on the inletting, though. MOST rifles respond better to glass bedding and barrel free-floating. Directions are included in bedding kits and are very easy to follow. My rifles get bedded and free-floated with the action and chamber area of the barrel solidly bedded. A dollar bill (about the only use for one anymore!) is able to be run from forend to bedding when properly relieved.

Personally, I let the manufacture install the recoil pad and sling swivel holes, plus forend and grip cap.

A high comb or cheekrest depend on what type of scope you're planning on installing. Large object bell scopes will require higher mounts to accommodate and move your line of sight up off a standard comb. If you can mount a 33mm to 38mm objective scope in low mounts, then a standard stock will work, but there's still a question of a good cheekweld.
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  #13  
Old 07-02-2011, 12:34 PM
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Chrispy,

The first rifle I put together was from, "Herter's" parts.

Can't say a lot of good for much of their stuff, but that BSA and yes, yours is a BSA, really shot!!!!!!!!

It was a 243win. and like I said, really shot!

Keep em coming!

Crusty Deary Ol'Coot
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  #14  
Old 07-02-2011, 05:48 PM
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Kdub: You've been a huge help sir, I really do appreciate it. I suppose I'm gonna pay the extra $15 for "1/16" Oversized Inletting" to allow for the bedding, we'll see how it goes! I've still got many other questions about inletting/bedding/free-floating etc.. but I'll spare ya

I'll post back when it's completed...or as soon as I hit a snag..


Coot: Yeah there definitely seems to be mixed reviews about Herters as a whole but as far as this particular rilfe is concerned, it seems to be pretty unanimous. You've just given me one more positive to throw on the pile, thank you sir



Now lets just hope I don't knock it's accuracy in the toilet with this new stock installation!
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  #15  
Old 12-22-2011, 07:51 PM
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I have a U9 stock, pretty plain, without the cheekpeice I'd trade for yours, with some cash to boot.
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  #16  
Old 11-17-2012, 02:22 PM
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Got into this one a little late, I have a 59 BSA Majestic Featherlite in .270....LOVE IT. It like yours looks brand new. If you haven't cured your stock problem I have a suggestion. I had a friend with your affliction, come on man they don't call it the right hand for nothing (just kidding) He use to use one of those lace on cheek pads like you see on Garrands. Just a thought...Good Luck and good shooting. philinchaos
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  #17  
Old 11-17-2012, 07:01 PM
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I have seen leather cheek pieces with velcro to fasten it together. They are comfortable. Where to buy I don't know, but I have seen them. That BSA is a great action and have no doubt it will shoot great. Heck, any good boot shop should be able to fix you up. The ones I seen had the rough side out being smoother on the jaw line.
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  #18  
Old 11-18-2012, 07:15 PM
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Own basically same Herters rifle (made by BSA) in 6mm Remington. Bought it in a pawnshop about 4 months ago. Trigger on mine leaves a lot to be desired, but rifle shoots fairly accurately for me dispite the trigger.

One difference I noted between our rifles from your pics. Mine has no iron sights it was not drilled and tapped for a scope like yours. My receiver is machined (integrel mount) for some unusual rings. Lucky for me a fellow member of range where we shoot had what I needed in his collection of old gun parts to mount a larger diameter higer power scope on mine.

If your Dad, didn't show you how to remove the bolt from action. You just need to open bolt and pull it back about an inch and then push forward on the trigger and then while maintaining a forward pressure on the trigger, pull bolt out.
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  #19  
Old 11-19-2012, 12:40 PM
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BSA Majestic

I had the same issue when I bought my BSA Majestic .270 Featherlite. I started doing some research on it and was shocked to find it was made in 1959. It's a beautiful little rifle. 30 line per inch checking, schnabel fore end and factory magnaported and weights 6 pounds. I had quite a time finding scope mounts for it though. It has a dove tail groove down both sides of the receiver so I grabbed some Weaver mounts I had laying around and they did not work, the gap is wider than a weaver (metric) and the feet on a weaver mount do not grip it correctly. I did find a European mount that did fit, I just looked at it and can't see any markings on it, I think it was for a Howa. It also has a pin that hangs from the rear mount that drops into a hole in the top of the reciever. It has always been a sub MOA gun until I loaded up some 140gr barnes X bullets...WOW. One ragged hole at 100 yards and 3/4 at 200 from my lead sled. If you can find one buy it, they are usually shockingly affordable. I see them going for 400 to $500, a steal at any price.
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  #20  
Old 11-19-2012, 02:57 PM
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BSA Majestic

Just found the package from the scope mounts, they are Parker Hale.
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