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  #1  
Old 06-03-2012, 08:29 AM
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weatherby 300 mag


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Would any one like to share some pet loads for the 300 weatherby mag? I just won one in a gun raffle and would like some info besides what's in the manuals.
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  #2  
Old 06-03-2012, 06:00 PM
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I just use the factory Weatherby loads out of my Accumark in .300 Wby Mag. I've not found one that does not shoot around MOA. I use the 165 gr BT, 180 gr Accubonds, and for most practice, the 180 gr SPTZ. The last time I bought the SPTZ loads, I bought ten boxes for right about $32.00 per box. I sell my once fired brass for $20.00. That makes my practice loads come in at $12.00 per box of 20.
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Old 06-03-2012, 09:44 PM
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I shoot Weatherby ammunition out of my Mark V .300 Wtby. Mag.
180gr. Nosler Partition for elk and moose
200gr. Nosler Partition for brown bear
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  #4  
Old 06-05-2012, 07:37 AM
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Thanks for your reply's I'am a reloader and I might be interested in Worc's once fired brass.
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  #5  
Old 06-05-2012, 10:58 AM
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The brass - Weatherby - is really pricey, but a 300H&H factory or hand load can be fired and thereby fireformed to the 300 Weatherby chamber and there after used just like a Weatherby case.

Don't worry about using a reduced load, a full blown H&H hunting load will do just fine.

Someone's pet load may or may not work well in your rifle, each rifle being a law unto itself!

The only comment beyond that is use quality bullets. Pick one weight, likely 180 or 200gr for the Weatherby then pick a quality bullet - not a typical cup & core design - and providing it gives the desired groups stick with it. DON'T be switching bullets depending on the game hunted! A quality bullet will not let you down, and there is no such thing as "too dead."

However, the wrong bullet can make for lots of meat loss!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Keep em coming!

Crusty Deary Ol'Coot
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  #6  
Old 06-05-2012, 01:25 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by truck driver View Post
Thanks for your reply's I'am a reloader and I might be interested in Worc's once fired brass.
You'll have to wait in line for those

If you fire form H&H brass, the stretching reduces the longevity of the case compared to a factory brass. In the long run you may end up spending more on fireformed brass. Just depends on how much you shoot and reload each case.

I think I may have seen once fired brass on Gunbroker for sale.
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  #7  
Old 06-05-2012, 02:54 PM
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Ten years ago my boss bought a 300 Weatherby Accumart to take to Alaska.I took the rifle home to load up some shells and sight it in.I've always used IMR 4350 and barnes 180gr X bullets in my 300 Win Mag so that's what I used for the Weatherby.You won't get the highset velocity but it sure is accurate.Looking back at my notes ,started showing signs of preasure at 76 grains @ 3164 fps so I backed it down to 74 grs and sighted it in.At 100 yds had two groups at 3/8 inch ,three groups at 1/2 inch, one group at 5/8 inch and one Muskrat.200 yds-2inch group.300 yds-2 1/2 inch group and 400 yds-6 inch group.That was shooting standing up with the gun resting on a plank laid across the bed of my truck.
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Old 06-08-2012, 05:04 PM
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thanks for your replies, you guys have been vert helpful.
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Old 06-08-2012, 09:00 PM
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It has been my experience, that brass usually gives up because of on coming head seperation issues rather then neck issues. Not always, the necks can split and let you down there, but over the years that has not been the norm for me.

Except that is on one batch of Norma brass that came with my used Flat Bolt RUGER #77 - .243. Seems like most of that brass failed with neck problems.

Very seldom so with my normal choice of Winchester brass.

For that reason, and the fact that there is very little, like almost no stretching at the head end of the case during a 300 H&H to 300 Weatherby fire form, that will not likely be a major issue.

If your buying "Weatherby" brass, the cost is so high that it will most assuredly not be as cost effective as the H&H to Weatherby conversion.

Providing Remingto or Winchester brass is available in 300 Weatherby, Then Worc's comments on cost are most likely valid.

CDOC
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  #10  
Old 06-10-2012, 11:52 AM
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I didn't do my research on fire forming 300 H&H that's the reason for buying Weatherby brass and Midway had Timiney triggers on sale.
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  #11  
Old 06-11-2012, 06:02 PM
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Use Weatherby brass, period. Don't screw around with that fire forming. And on that....can someone show me how buying expensive and not always in stock 300 H&H brass and using TWO loads of powder and TWO bullets to get 1 final loaded round, is cheaper then just buying Weatherby brass which is extremely high quality Norma brass?? You might be saving a few bucks, but you're burning more powder, wasting more bullets, and putting more stress on a barrel. Buy it once, do it right.

Midway has actual Weatherby 300 Wby brass, for 38$ a box of 20. Just get the good stuff, don't screw around with anything else or fireforming. You are shooting a Weatherby, not a wild cat or some 30-06 based case. To be blunt, and I say this to everyone who has just taken hold of their first Bee so its not an insult or anything, but, if the cost of admission is too high, sell it and move on. Weatherby is purely a pay to play game. Don't short change it, otherwise you might as well be shooting a 300 Win Mag but with more recoil. Push it HARD, fill the cases, use good bullets, and use the best brass. You wouldn't put Sav-o-Mat corner gas 85 octane in a Porsche GT2, would you?
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  #12  
Old 06-11-2012, 06:04 PM
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Actually just triple checked Midway. It would cost you MORE money to fire form H&H new brass, into Weatherby brass, brand for brand. 56.99$ for 50pc of Hornady H&H, 50.99 for 50pc Hornady 300 Wby, as an example.
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  #13  
Old 06-11-2012, 08:22 PM
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One dosen't learn without asking questions and getting multiple answers. You didn't step on my toes I like straight forward answers. I had already bought Weatherby brass from midway. Wanted to here what others were doing.
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  #14  
Old 06-12-2012, 07:08 PM
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I haven't loaded for mine in many years after I found out the cheap 33$ box of 180's shot good enough for a back up rifle lol.

In my rifle, RL22 was king of the powders in the 165 and 180 weights. Max book charges, actually, sometimes above max charges. Weatherby factory ammo is closer to 70k then it is 60k, and most books seems to load to like 58-62kpsi, but they'll publish WSM or 270 Win loads that are pushing the full 63=64k no problem *eye roll* lawyers!! Load it up using book recipes...then if you aren't getting what you think you should velocity wise, you can start gradually inching up past the book.
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  #15  
Old 06-14-2012, 08:58 AM
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Thanks MileHighshooter I'll keep this info in mind while I'm working up some loads.
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  #16  
Old 06-14-2012, 09:35 AM
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300 Weatherby

I hunted Elk in the past with a 300 Weatherby using a 180 Nosler Part.It is a hard kicking flat shooting great cartridge.It is not for someone that has problems with sharp recoil.It is what it is,a hunting round.I liked Winchester brass in the 300 H&H,I used 375 H&H but the necks had to be turned.Norma brass is good just too soft.

I used 76 Grs IMR 4350 for 3189 out of a 26 inch barrel.This round needs good bullets just like any of the super fast rounds.
It can be a little unpleasant off the bench but you can use a kick killer or sand bag,just keep your eye away from the scope,this round has caused a lot of scope eyes by getting to close.
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  #17  
Old 06-14-2012, 03:29 PM
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Truck Driver,

A few things I saw on some of the sites I have bookmarked for 300 Weatherby brass. Graf and Sons has a sale on brand new 300 Weatherby brass for $25.99 per 20:

Graf & Sons - NORMA BRASS 300 WBY MAG UNPRIMED BULK PER 20

You can also buy once fired from sites such as this one which advertise 100 pieces for $99:

(301h) *Monthly Special* 300 Weatherby Magnum Brass - 100 ct

If you wanted to go the cheap route with once fired Remington brass, here's a site that lists it for $31.25 per 100, $150.98 per 500:

Once Fired Rifle Brass

Good luck.
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  #18  
Old 06-14-2012, 06:19 PM
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Thanks for the info M1Garand.
I owned a Winchester M1 Sniper modle once it even had Redfield Target sights on it. I bought it out of a local gun shop for $150 dollars, wish I still had it.
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  #19  
Old 06-14-2012, 09:34 PM
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I've shot a .300 Weatherby, and a .300 ICL, for many years. (The ICL is just a square-shouldered version of the Weatherby and holds about 1-2 grains more of powder.) Early on, I tried H1000 behind a 180 grain slug and have loved the results. They both like a max load and both are compressed loads at that level. The recoil is substantial on this load, but it is not as sharp as some of the other loads I've tried. It's the most accurate load of any I have tried, and it gets the most velocity-to-pressure of anything I have found, if the load data is to be believed. I load the 180 grain Nosler Partition with 85-86 grains of H1000 depending on the lot, and I consider it ideal for elk. I have shot a bunch of elk with that loading and it has not failed me. Some folks say a Swift A-Frame is better and stronger for elk, but I think it's a bit too stout, and anyway I have only recovered one of the Nosler 180s in all these years so they have no problem penetrating. When I first got the ICL, I had a bunch of fire-formed .300 H&H brass that came with it. Later, when I tried to make my own fire-formed brass from .300 H&H it was obvious that it was a lot of stretching for the brass, and I had about a 10% failure rate, plus the brass only loaded a couple of times before some of it started to show splits. I only mention this because of the earlier suggestion to make your own fire-formed brass that way. By paying attention to what goes on here and a few other places I have managed to accumulate around 300 pieces of once-fired genuine Weatherby brass for little money. I would not attempt making Weatherby cartridges out of H&H brass again. Good luck with your rifle, and let us know how the loads you choose turn out.
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  #20  
Old 06-15-2012, 01:47 AM
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It's a max load in Nosler manual but I used 84.5gr/IMR-7828 with 180gr partiton for elk in the 300 Wby's I've owned. I used Wby and Rem 300 Wby brass. I sold the last of my 300 Wby end of last year.
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