How many of you guys here aneal your rifle brass necks?If so,when? I do my 25.06 case necks about every 3 or 4 times.I have never had a case neck split yet,but,don't want to either.I discard them after the necks get thin looking or measure way below what they ought to be.

I also anneal brass for my 25-06s. I also anneal for any case that I'm reforming (such as making 7Rm into .338s) or using with Lee Collet dies. Guess I don't do it as often as you do though.

__________________
Still Learnin' as I go!

NRA Life Member

Anneal the hard to get brass (7 Dakota, 6mm/284, 6.5x257AI, etc.), but really don't bother with the more common stuff. Most factory brass is annealed at the factory and probably won't need re-annealed for a half dozen reloads or so, depending on how hot you load them.

__________________
NRA Benefactor Member
NRA Certified Police Firearms Instructor
NRA Certified Range Safety Officer
NAHC Life Member

"Firearms only have two enemies - rust and politicans" author unknown

I'm on 20-some reloads in my 25-06, much of it is re-sized 30-06.
Have never had to anneal yet. My 308 is in the 50's for reloads.

I have on my 30-06 stuff. 12th and 13th reloads on much of it.

__________________
Be popular? Heck, I have enough friends.
and...
"That way lies madness".

I have been using RWS Hornet brass for about 10 years..this stuff was dead soft..a thumbnail would easily dent mouth with light pressure. I use Redding bushing neck sizer die, and recently I noticed that when bullet seating, some were seating extra easy..checking case mouth revealed very hard ..so I have begun annealing them.

I anneal cases when forming brass such as making 308 Marlin Express from 270 Winchester cases. Any type of serious case forming requires annealing.
The factory cartridge I have found which benefits most from annealing cases is the 25-20 WCF. I shoot 4 different 25-20’s and I cannot keep my brass separated – I doubt it would help much – After 5 shots there is a noticeably different feel in bullet seating. 25-20 cases stretch and I am able to detect the difference in feel while case trimming. The necks and case mouths becoming hard and brittle. Regular annealing of the necks will keep 25-20 cases in service for many years.

__________________
slim

I've had to anneal 25WSSM brass right out of the bag, before even the first loading. There was a run or few of just ridiculously hard WSSM brass.

__________________
"A government big enough to give you everything you want is a government big enough to take from you everything you have." --Gerald Ford

I anneal most rifle brass after every 5th firing. This includes 25-06. I've noticed quite a difference in resistance on the cutter when trimming to length after 5 or 6 firings, depending on the cartridge.

__________________
Stretch ®

"If you are a reloader and you don't know Lee, you don't know Jack" - Floydster

DON'T BE SCARED©

I use to own a .17 Ackley Bee built on a martini action. Had to form my own ammo as there were no places selling wildcat cartridges back in the late '60's. I would first form .17 Bee cases from .218 Bee cases using RCBS forming/reloading dies. After forming my .17 Bee cases, I had to aneal my brass or they would neck split on first firing.

I anneal 30-06, 30-30 and 7.62x39. I anneal every 7th shot and have cases that have been shot 70+ times and still going strong.

If I don't anneal my 6mm brass regularly, it will split in a heartbeat. I anneal most all of them, but the 6mm eats the stuff if not done every three or four loads. I need to have the barrel set back just a little to tighten the head space back up because it will eventually blow the bases out anyway so I usually trash the brass after 10 shootings.