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  #1  
Old 07-21-2013, 02:25 PM
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barrell tuners


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Barrell tuners , what are they and how do they work and does anyone here use them ? What is a good brand and what can one expect to get out using them ?
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  #2  
Old 07-21-2013, 02:59 PM
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A barrel will vibrate when you shoot, it twists and turns and changes length etc. etc. etc.. A tuner changes the vibrations in a barrel so that the bullet will leave the barrel when the barrel is at the same point in it's vibration. Reloaders change their loads to find what works with the barrel vibrations, if you don't reload then you try different bullet weights and different brands of ammo. The Browning BOSS is an example of a tuner.

Varmint Al has a couple of pages devoted to tuners.
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  #3  
Old 07-23-2013, 06:12 PM
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I got this from another forum my grandson found , see the below article and ( bless his heart ) he says Gpa is this a comdom for a rifle ? cause we used to put theim on our M16 in Nam ...
I say no , what is it and I read the article and decided to cancle my 200$ tuner and try 8$ worth of heat shrink tubing .. they also tried O rings and got some success on those as well ... So I order some to try on my Savage MKII BTVSS 22 LR ... One guy tired it and claims he got .10 groups of 3 shots using SK I believe it is sub sonic and got one group of 3, in the same hole at 50 meters bench... that , is some shootin' !

"can't hold out on yall so here it is.

I am/have been for a few months now experimenting with High Density 4-1 shrink rate Heat Shrink Tubing and it is promising, I found some for $8 a stick 1" & 7/8" X 36" X 1/16" wall and put it on my Suhl and 40X barrels with interesting results. It is a simple process just lightly oil the barrel slide it on and use a heat gun to shrink it tight then it is air and water tight so some oil will squeeze out, then your done.

It takes all the vibration out and protects your barrel and the heat from shooting helps by tightening and making your barrel even stiffer, mine runs the full distance from the receiver to the muzzle and the tuners slid over the tubing as well. Now there is as close to "dead" as it can get it even takes stock ping out when you put it all back together, and you cant find vibration even with a ball peen hammer I tried.

The pros:
$8 per rifle
Matte finish so no shiny barrel "bling" in hunting situations
Protects rifle barrel from scratches/scrapes & water to most acids if you get the right kind
Can be removed in 2 seconds with a razor knife if you need or want too
Eliminates/dampens all barrel vibration and most stock ping
Looks great almost undetectable unless you are paying close attention
Will even conform to tapered barrels undetectable with the 4to1 (4to1 = 1 inch tube can shrink by 4 times so it is capable of shrinking to 1/4")
Available in 100+ colors
Improves group size
Takes most of the "cold bore shot" factor out (somehow I don't know it just does )
Gets tighter and is made to shrink tighter when barrel starts warming up
Almost like an auto adjustable tuner

Cons: None unless you buy tubing from the wrong wire supply house and they charge by the foot instead of by the stick "
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  #4  
Old 07-23-2013, 06:22 PM
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LimbSaver makes their Barrel De-Resonator, which is slid forward or backward to accomplish the same goal.

Years and years ago we used livestock castrating bands for the same use, I think they are about $3/100 give or take. It may take several to get the results you want.
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  #5  
Old 07-23-2013, 08:24 PM
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It would seem to me that the de-resonator would have to have more mass than just a sleeve of heatshrink, in order to affect the resonance of the barrel. I'm speaking from ignorance, not having ever tried one, but I do understand de-tuning a resonant mechanical radiator.

On the topic of sleeving, There is a product called cold shrink. It is a thick walled rubber sleeve that is held expanded by a retractable pull-cord of rigid nylon wound inside of it. When the expansion cord is pulled out and it shrinks about 50%, the dense rubber thickens to around 1/8-3/16 inch. If you google andrews cold shrink, you should be able to find it. Their usually about 6-8 inches long and come in different diameters. I put some on a set of bicycle handlebars and it made a good, high tactile rubber grip.

Anyway, being thick, dense rubber, it is heavier than any of the kinds of heat shrink I've used, including the poly-olefin lined stuff. I do not agree with the assertion that it's heat retention capability is a good thing for barrels though. Just passing along what I know. I believe a more localized piece of dense, heavy rubber like those de-resonators you can buy would be a better form or resonance breaker.

Hoot

BTW, cold shrink is not reusable and is designed not to move, by virtue of friction, once installed. The only way to get it off is to score it almost all the way through and split it. It is a one shot affair. It can however, be rolled back upon itself with some effort and determination.

H-
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  #6  
Old 07-23-2013, 08:45 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hoot View Post
It would seem to me that the de-resonator would have to have more mass than just a sleeve of heatshrink,...
Just for clarity, the De-Resonator from LimbSaver is not a heatshrink type product.
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  #7  
Old 07-23-2013, 08:46 PM
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Heat Shrink tubing dampens the resonance of steel barrels by several mechanisms:
1. absorption of the basic vibration
2. changing the elasticity of the overall barrel - tubing combination.

NOTE: the quoted article said 'Rigid' type heat shrink, which is very stiff when shrunk so will not allow lateral bending/vibration of the barrel body.

There ar ealso flexible types of Heat Shrink tubing that will still flex and bend after shrinking.
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  #8  
Old 07-23-2013, 09:54 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chevwilliam View Post
Heat Shrink tubing dampens the resonance of steel barrels by several mechanisms:
1. absorption of the basic vibration
2. changing the elasticity of the overall barrel - tubing combination.

NOTE: the quoted article said 'Rigid' type heat shrink, which is very stiff when shrunk so will not allow lateral bending/vibration of the barrel body.

There ar ealso flexible types of Heat Shrink tubing that will still flex and bend after shrinking.
chevwilliam is correct. I read the process they went thru to determine or identify the wave frequency of a/the barrel , pretty cool stuff .
For those not famillar here is a link to some of testing done :

Rifle Barrel Tuner Vibration Analysis
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  #9  
Old 07-24-2013, 03:03 AM
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I've seen both Varmint Al's and Chris Long's work before. Quite a labor of love. What I can not see is the link to the article about the heatshrink experiment in post #3. Can someone put it up again. I love reading stuff like that.

Thanks,

Hoot
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Old 07-24-2013, 09:13 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hoot View Post
I've seen both Varmint Al's and Chris Long's work before. Quite a labor of love. What I can not see is the link to the article about the heatshrink experiment in post #3. Can someone put it up again. I love reading stuff like that.

Thanks,

Hoot
Here ya go Hoot, looks like some pretty honest stuff . I am off to town to get a length or two for both my Savage 340 and Mark II and my wifes H&R Topper , not sure how I am going to get it over the front site on the 340e and the Topper.

New - Wood and Metal Hands on discussions - Rimfire Shooting
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Old 07-24-2013, 09:40 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by paperkite View Post
Here ya go Hoot, looks like some pretty honest stuff . I am off to town to get a length or two for both my Savage 340 and Mark II and my wifes H&R Topper , not sure how I am going to get it over the front site on the 340e and the Topper.

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Thanks. I have not gone with any other form of barrel tuning as I've only recently got my rifle and worked through the ammo vetting process. One question would be barrel clearance of the stock. If your barrel just clears the stock, does the shrink require re-inletting the barrel channel. We have lots of different heat shrink in the shop here at work. NBD to grab a heat gun and throw some on. Am hoping to do an A/B group comparison with no other barrel tuning. Being until recently, mostly a centerfire person, barrel heat is something you normally want to get rid of. I Even have a 12V DC vacuum cleaner rigged up to suck air through the barrel to improve cooling on hot days. I realize rimfire does not produce that degree of heat, it's just hard to think of heat as my friend.

Thanks for re-posting that link...

Hoot
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  #12  
Old 07-24-2013, 04:14 PM
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I am still working on what runs the best in my Mk II. Someone once said the the US manufacturers could not produce a decent BR round for the .22 , I am beginning to understand why he said that having gone thru 6 different " types " of 22 LR and not finding one that will group better than 3 in .6 , so it is off to the foreign brands to see what works. I do have a starting place but it does keep a retired person such as my self busy with the selection and record keeping. I think that if my free floating barrel connects with the laminate stock I will be removing the offending part of the stock as it could ping back to the barrel and as it gets warmer it will push on the barrel.
I got this idea from tuning my M1 Garand stock that some of shooters at the Camp Perry meet do ) sometimes one does not apply all aspects of tuning to all rifles , but I believe we must apply all to each and see what works the best maybe , one step at a time . Soon as I find the ammo that it likes ( the MKII ) I will start the barrel tuning process. Since we cannot hand load this caliber it leaves us to the mercy of the ammo makers when they say " HEY !TRY OUR MATCH GRADE AMMO FOR ONLY 23.00$ TO $28.00 a box of 50. Versuses Fed Champ for $7.95 per 50 , full well knowing BR shooters may shoot a brick a week as most shooters that seek the perfect 250 are want to do .
Oh, and of course you are more the man if you can boast of high scores on the ARA target eh ? . Please post your paticulars on you rilfle and all the good stuff you find out ! I am looking fwd to getting good enuf to try competion next year . This will be fun as I have 3 AR's, an AK 47 , SKS , H&R Topper Hornet , Savage 340e Hornet , Win model 96, maybe the M1 Garand , and my hunting 30.06 that has never gone hunting... to tune .. gonna be a great time ! oh and different velocities to try as well . Just shooting a lowley ,plain jane bullet as accurately as one can, has opened up a whole new direction.
Paul
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Last edited by paperkite; 07-24-2013 at 04:20 PM.
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  #13  
Old 07-25-2013, 06:11 PM
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I got some 1.103 inch shrink tube ( 3-1 ) today with glue in side as they did not have any 5/8" glue free . After a couple tries on a dummy rod at .750 inches ( my MKII barrel mic's at .789 , the tube kept bunching along one side the length test rod. I hads to use my propane hand held tourch to get it to shrink as the hair drier would not get hot enough.. I have decided to just do from forend to the muzzle and see how that shoots . If it shoots good tomorrow I will get my grandsons camera and take a couple fotos so you can see how It bunches along one side . This size will need experimenting before trying to do the whole barrel length. I am guessing that tapered barrels will be no problem but need to use a smaller dia tube. I tried a test section where the barrel just clears the stock ( laminate stock ) the shrink tube is too thick and I do not want to mill the stock down at this point even though it is free floating from the reciever out to the muzzls .
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