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  #1  
Old 05-20-2004, 04:17 PM
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Join Date: Apr 2004
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Roll Crimping Slug Hulls to fit the Load


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I am hoping to get some feedback on this, but it may be too "experimental" for group interest. My project is to use lee 7/8 oz slugs and reloader #5 with an ACTIV tg-30 wad (I have a small stash) to create a low recoil slug load at the 1590 - 1600 fps range. I am using new (never loaded) ACTIV 2 3/4 hulls. I am using the supplied data from lee (an also on the accurate web site), with the 20 gauge 135. nitro-card in the shotcup below the slug. The shotcups are too long for the slug (probably ok with star crimp, but ugly with roll crimp) and the hulls are too long for the load if using a roll crimp. I know that the standard answer is fill wads. Fill below the one piece wad, fill in the shotcup below the wad and raise the load and slug to the required height, then roll press. I know I can get "bigger powder" and use it for filler etc. I do not use my press to reload slugs, so I have no real incentive to use the standard (don't have to reset the whole press) processes. I full length resize my hulls using an old MEC Reconditioning tool which also knocks out the primer. I reprime, then scale measure the charges, hand seat the wad, place the nitro card, then the slug. The height of the charge with the specified components comes in at about the 2" mark if the shot cup is trimmed to fit the slug plus nitro card. I am going to trim the wadcup height to fit the slug and nitrocard. I am going to reduce the charge 20% as a starting point, and I am going to cut the case to 2 1/4", about whats needed to fit the orignal charge, wad, nitrocard, and slug. I am going to use my drill press and roll crimp tool to create a hull that is going to come in at a little over the 2" mark rolled. I have book loads for 2" and 2 1/4" 7/8 oz loads, so they exist, but I am going to stick with the orignal recommended components. Since I am using the original loads components (with all the inherent compressability needed for original slug and powder combination) and since my roll crimp theoretically releases at the same point on the pressure curve regardless of the time it takes to reach the pressure, what significant change has occured by shortening the case to the load components, charge, and slug? I have not changed the slug, components, or charge (I am planning on using the 20% reduced charge as a starting load and chronographing the tests as I increase back to velocities to try not to blow myself up). With the exception of "blow-by" needing the extra space (filled wad space) to pressurize the entire case, why would the 1/2 in finished case length make a difference. thanks in advance, RC
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  #2  
Old 05-21-2004, 05:00 AM
Riflemen10x's Avatar
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Location: western New York
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Sounds like it would work to me

The only problem you might find it the longer the run up to the forcing cone the more accuracy will drop off with some slugs.you might want to try to star crimp and not have to worry about all this other triming and stuff.
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  #3  
Old 06-11-2004, 06:09 AM
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Join Date: Apr 2004
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Follow up on the Experiment

I cut 2 3/4 in Activ hulls to 2 1/4 inch and others to 2" length. I used Activ TG 30 wads. I put in the load specified .135 nitro card then trimmed the wad cup to the shoulder of the 7/8 oz Lee slug (leaving the nose) extending about 1/4 inch above the shot cup. I charged the case with varing powder charges up to and including the specified full load of 40 grains of accurate #5, then roll crimped the case. I ended up with a shell with an overall completed length of 2 inches roll crimped onto the meplate of the slug itself. The accuracy of these loads is better than the factory remington 2 3/4 slug loads that I was using a comparison. HOWEVER... I have now discovered the problems of trying to "resize" the cases for reuse. I will continue to evaluate this approach because it allows me to fit my hulls to my loads rather than the other way around, but, in the end, it may just be easier to "stack stuff" into the hull to reach the height needed.
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  #4  
Old 06-19-2004, 07:15 AM
James Gates's Avatar
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I thought I would jump in here on this one since we have been working with all types of slugs for two years now. We have tested many types of slugs and factory slug loads.
With the Lee key Slugs we have found the best accuracy has been with AA5 powder. We had no real success using one piece wads though. It appeared that the slug needed a better base under it to assure alignment. The best loads have been made up with the Ballistic Products Obturater over powder wads, nitro wad, pure cork filler wads, and the Federal 1 1/4 oz shot cups (out of production, but still on Ebay), and a rolled crimp. Loads as close, can be made by cutting of the legs of some 1 1/8 oz. wads and using it as a shot cup. Pure woll 20 ga wads work good to bring the slug up to slightly above the wad's lip.We also cast the Lee's out of wheelweights and heat treat them. If one decides to use a Foster type slug......be sure to press a 20 ga wool wad inti the hollow base. This keeps the filler wads, etc., from blowing into the base. We found on recovered factory Foster slugs, over half had filer wada blown into the base causing poor accuracy.
The best of all is a bore size hard cast slug weighing between 1 1/8 and 1 1/4 oz. Our Predator (565 grs) hollow base slug is .730" and can be used in chokes down to .725". With this weight we found Blue Dot to be best......James
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  #5  
Old 06-20-2004, 07:47 AM
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Mr. Gates, I went to the Accurate Web site and find no reference to AA5 powder in their product line anymore. Is there a substitute or am I chasing the wrong manufacturer? Like the Federal Shot Cups and the Activ hull, this powder may be "gone". I can't find reference to it on the powder chart here at beartooth either. Any advice? thanks in advance. rc
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  #6  
Old 06-23-2004, 03:30 AM
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I found out what I should have known. AA5 is the same as Accurate No. 5 which is what I am using. Silly me.... thanks to all. rc
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  #7  
Old 07-25-2004, 03:23 PM
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Now to make that Lee slug really work! Cast them from wheelweights. Ckeck out Ebay for some of the older Federal shot cups 1 1/4 oz. (12SC114) or 1 1/2 oz. (12SC112). Put enough 20 ga. wool wads inside the cup tp bring the top of the slug even with the top of the shot cup. Use AA5 charge depending on the slug weight. Put a Ballistic Products X12X over powder wad over the powder. Use enough pure cork wads to bring the top of the slug to the top of the hulls mouth. Roll crimp..........No you have the same load as Dixie Slugs Dix-Lee slug. Should be used in Cylinder and Imp.Cyl. barrels........James.
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  #8  
Old 07-25-2004, 03:29 PM
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For your information...........James
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