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  #1  
Old 01-17-2011, 10:49 AM
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Posts: 5
gunsmithing?-stevens model 67 series E .410


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I have a Stevens model 67 series "E" .410 pump shotgun. This gun was a Christmas present from my dad when I was in the 4th grade. I squirrel hunted with this gun for years until a few years ago when I began having trouble with the gun jamming. When a shot is fired, the next round in the magazine tube will jump over the tang on the "slide" as all the parts diagrams call it. I have been looking for a solution to this problem for the past 5 years. I have contacted all the manufacturers and online gunsmith shops such as Savage and Brownell's. I have had this gun at 3 different gunsmiths around here and none of theme were able to fix it or agree with me as to what exactly the problem is. Well, I'm not a gunsmith, but as it turns out I do know a thing or 3 about mechanisms and design. It is aparrent to me that if I ever want this gun in usable condition again I am going to have to fix it my self. I know that the tang on the slide assembly is worn and is too short. I need to weld it up and reshape it to get it back to its original dimension. If you have one of these guns turn the gun upside down and load a shell into the magazine. The spring in the magazine tube keeps pressure on the shell so that it rests against the "tang" on the slide. The spring pressure that is keeping the shell against the tang allows the shell to follow the slide back, where at the end of the stroke, it is dropped onto the lifter, which then kicks the shell up in front of the bolt as the entire action is moving forward. Then, the bolt pushes the shell into the chamber. On my gun the tang on the slide is worn. When I fire a round, the next shell in the magazine jumps over the tang. When this happens, the lifter is now jammed because the entire action needs to move all the way back before the shell is dropped onto the lifter. I know this sounds a little hard to follow, but if you have one of these guns, just turn it over and load a shell. You will instantly see how the shell rests against the tang. I need to know the dimension of that tang. If anyone out there has this EXACT model and feels confident disassembling and reassembling it, please measure this dimension with calipers (as shown in the photos below) and let m know what it is. Your efforts will be greatly appreciated.

On a side note, I appreciate ALL the help I can possibly get with this, but please understand that I have exhausted every possible resource for replacing this part. Unless you know of someone who has one of these guns and could help me or would like to sell me theirs for parts, please do not post blind links to gun parts websites unless you happen to know for 100% certain that they have the part I need and it is in stock. As noted above I have been going through every possible resource and lead for the past 5 years and I have heard/seen them all. No one has this part and no one has been able to help me so far. So, unless you have seen this part or a parts gun on the internet for absolute certain, please don't make any blind suggestions or post any blind links. I don't want to come off as rude at all, but I either need a direct answer as to the dimension that the tang is supposed to be or a direct link to this part or a gun that is for sale for spare parts

Thanks.











The current dimension is .620" as shown in the last photo. I need to know what this dimension is off of a working .410 ga.

Thanks again.
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  #2  
Old 01-17-2011, 12:57 PM
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Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Batchelor, La. 70715
Posts: 735
I don't have the measurment unless the height of a 12ga might help you. However, when you get ready to do the build up get you a can of heat-stop paste from Brownell's and follow the directions. The stuff works and will protect the rest of the part from any possible heat damage. If it was me I would just build it up and dress it back down till I got the needed clearance. If you want the measurement off a 12 say so and I'll go break mine down and measure for you. Here endeth the epistle. Goatwhiskers the Elder
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  #3  
Old 01-18-2011, 10:38 AM
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Join Date: Jan 2011
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It might not be a bad idea for me to know what that dimension is even if it's for a 12 ga. At least it will give me a place to start. By the way, thanks for the tip on the heat-control stuff. Also, if it's not too much to ask, could you possibly load a shell in the magazine and post a picture of it in the gun for me? Just stick it in the magazine and turn the gun over and take a pic where I can see how it rests against the tang. Even if I can't use your dimension I can make mine proportional to what yours looks like. I'm a little worried about getting it too long and having it sit against the primer. I'd like to see what yours looks like with a shell in the magazine tube.

Thanks.
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  #4  
Old 01-19-2011, 04:14 AM
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Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Batchelor, La. 70715
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Me and picture posting don't get along too good. However, I can help. Time for some old time gunsmithing. The lug should be squared off with the corner just barely rounded. Yours is badly worn, and when rebuilt should overlap the rim of the cartridge between 1/32 and 1/16". An easy job, and not critical, just some time involved in fitting. I would use the 5% nickel rod offered by Brownells. Here endeth the lesson. Goatwhiskers the Elder
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  #5  
Old 01-19-2011, 10:22 AM
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thanks for the lesson. I'll let you know how it turns out. Got to order some of that rod first.
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  #6  
Old 01-28-2011, 05:40 PM
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Join Date: Jan 2011
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just found out on another forum that this is the exact same gu as the Savage model 30. Now why couldn't the "experts" at Savage and Brownell's tell me that? Ordered this part new. We'll see what happens when I t get it in and get it all back together.
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  #7  
Old 01-27-2012, 10:36 AM
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Join Date: Jan 2012
Posts: 1
Treeinwlaker, if you are still involved with this post do you mind telling me where you got the part. I just got a 12 today with the same problem. You had me pretty worried because I didn't like the idea of welding to fix the gun. I'm not even sure I'm brave enough to take it apart after seeing several people asking for help putting theirs back together.

If you can give me the name of the company you found I will order what I need to. Thanks for taking the time to document so well.
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  #8  
Old 12-13-2012, 03:48 PM
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Join Date: Dec 2012
Posts: 1
i hope you check on your threads, I am new on this forum and just happened upon your thread. the problem with your shotgun isnt your slide or bolt the problem is with the composite trigger guard. the flapper that flips the round up to be chambered rests on the trigger guard there is a dimple on the rear of the flapper it is "sagging" the guard will need to be built up with epoxy or the flapper will need to be redimpled. you could put a small spacer like a washer under it and glue it down that should fix it good luck!!!!
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