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-   -   Remington model 11 will not go into battery (http://www.shootersforum.com/shotguns-shotgunning-shotshell-reloading/84699-remington-model-11-will-not-go-into-battery.html)

oldgunarebest 05-13-2013 02:57 PM

Remington model 11 will not go into battery
 
I have a model 11 that will not go into battery with a shell in the chamber. I cannot pull the slide back to eject the shell and there is a shell in the magazine that I cannot remove. The gun will not fire. When I try to pull the slide back the entire barrel moves backward toward the reciever. The shell is the correct 2 3/4 length and the friction rings appear to be installed correctly. Any suggestions on getting the shells out and fixing this issue?

Shawn Crea 05-13-2013 04:12 PM

Welcome oldgun. Some questions that could help us out.

How far from being 'closed' is the action? Is it 3/8" to 1/2", or more? Was it a low-base round, or high base? Was it a reload, or factory round? Wondering if the shell base got crimped/sheared into the chamber on the reloading cycle and jammed it up? Or, if a reload, if there was a swell in the case. Another possibility is that the last shot before loading this one left part of the plastic case in the chamber? I guess another possibility is that part of the action failed and locked things up, but I can't think of anything right off that would tie barrel/bolt together like that.

A fix? I'd take it to a gunsmith. I had thoughts that you could take the fore-end/magazine cap off, secure the gun action in some sort of padded vise, then pull the barrel away from the action, but I don't like the picture that description produces, for safety reasons.

Mainspring 05-13-2013 04:21 PM

There are numerous possibilities, and there may be several issues, especially with an older shotgun like the M11. I would work carefully and slowly because of the live ammo and springs under tension.

~ Engage the safety if possible.

Not knowing the circumstances surrounding this malfunction I will try to cover a couple of bases.

~ The case in the chamber may be live, or it may be fired, and there may be more than one live shell in the magazine.
~ The rings are a brake system, and can prevent the barrel from moving if damaged or lack lubrication. The barrel is also part of the brake system.
- 1) Verify if the rings are properly positioned.
- 2) Add plenty of oil to the outside of the mag tube where the rings are, and in front of the rings and barrel ring. This may help the barrel to move forward. Be cautious as the barrel may move suddenly, it is under spring tension.

Quote:

Originally Posted by oldgunarebest (Post 677286)
When I try to pull the slide back the entire barrel moves backward toward the receiver.

Possible causes...
~ Broken or damaged Carrier Latch.
~ Broken or damaged Carrier Dog.
~ Broken Slide.
~ Worn operating slide notch.
~ Burrs on Link where Operating Handle comes into contact with the link.
~ Improper clearance between the Locking Block and Barrel Extension.

There may also be debris of some sort in the action, spent primer, broken buffer, buffer rivet, shot, or just crud and gunk in general. A damaged Firing Pin may be binding the Locking Block.

In general, the gun needs to disassembled and inspected. I would look for a damaged buffer, damaged locking block and damaged breech bolt. If the Recoil Spring is "square" then it needs to be updated to the newer "round" type wire. Though in general I prefer to replace both the Recoil Spring and Action Spring regardless.

Quote:

Originally Posted by oldgunarebest (Post 677286)
Any suggestions on getting the shells out...

For shells in the magazine, remove the mag cap and the circular shaped spring inside the mag tube. Be cautious as the mag spring is under tension. You should be able to remove the plug, mag spring, shells and follower at this time.

The shell in the chamber may be more difficult to remove. The Locking Block sounds as if it is engaged with the barrel extension, the Locking Block needs to disengage from the barrel extension in order to remove the shell from the chamber.


Quote:

Originally Posted by oldgunarebest (Post 677286)
Any suggestions on... fixing this issue?

I don't like working on guns with both live ammo and springs under tension. I'm familiar with the M11 so I'm comfortable in how the gun works and in disassembling.

I would remove the shells from the magazine, then the buttstock, then the action spring, then the trigger group, then the carrier assembly. I would hold the barrel forward and lightly tap rearward on the operating handle. Other measures may be needed, but I would start with those.

m141a 05-14-2013 12:47 PM

1 Attachment(s)
I used to own one of these guns, that did the very same ailment.
Mine turned out to be a crack in the bolt, on the bottom rail. Ended up finding another bolt from a sportsman model, and it ran fine till I sold it.
That a waaaaaaaays back

xjsdvr 05-14-2013 03:33 PM

Lots of good ideas already----- the whole story kinda spooks me-----maybe a 20ga round jammed in the forcing cone ?????? I don't think I would be jerking on the trigger till I saw some day light down the barrel.

Mike89 05-14-2013 04:06 PM

I just had to retire a Model 11 that froze with the action locked back. Turned out the barrel is broken. This gun has served me well for many years but all good things come to an end. Loved the feel of the long recoil which is now pretty much history.

Vynshah 05-14-2013 10:01 PM

Model 11 woes
 
There are some very good people giving you some good advice. I have my grandfather's Model 11 built in 1924. It has the old "suicide safety" located in the trigger guard. I was having trouble with it until we decided the old buffer in the back of the squareback had breathed it's last. Take a cleaning rod with the barrel pointed in a safe direction and run it down the barrel until it touches. Make the spot and then lay it next to the barrel and it goes almost to the end of the boltl, you have a fired shell. If so, great. Unload the magazine as explained before. Now shove back on the barrel and see if you can get it to move. It is long recoil and the bolt is supposed to move with the barrel. If you can clear it great, if not it's off to the gunsmith you go. Have him check the buffer. By the by, are these reloads? Some autos, especially 11's and 11-48's won't take them unless they are sized perfectly.


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