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  #1  
Old 07-13-2009, 05:59 PM
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Ruger No. 1 Accurizing


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I was told a factory Ruger No. 1 is a 3 moa gun out of the box. Is this true? How do you accurize a gun like this? Is it pretty well the same as a bolt, only no bolt? I was under the impression that this gun was a very accurate gun outta the box. What gives?

I'm thinking of a Ruger No.1 in 25-06
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  #2  
Old 07-13-2009, 07:44 PM
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I don't have one (long story) but they're like every other gun model. Some will shoot out of the box, some need tuning and a few won't shoot, period. Do a search in this forum (Single Shot Rifles.) for "Ruger" and you'll find a fair bit of advice, including the setscrew trick. Click on Search above, then Advanced Search and fill in the blanks.

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  #3  
Old 07-14-2009, 03:53 AM
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someone on hear about 1 year and a half ago did a post with pictures on his bedding procedure at the action and floating of the forearm (except for the forearm screw of course). it was well done as i recall, i search might bring it up for you. i thought it was a Ruger No1, i don't think it was a handi rifle or the sorts, heck half th etime i can't remember my own kids names anymore.
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  #4  
Old 07-14-2009, 07:46 PM
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I have a Ruger #1V in 25-06. It's about 5 months old and has been shooting less than MOA (with the proper loads) since I got it. I too have heard about inaccuracy problems with this rifle, but I've also read more positive reviews than not. Mine is fine and if you get one, yours will be too.....otherwise, Ruger may end up sending another one to you, right?
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  #5  
Old 07-15-2009, 03:02 AM
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Guess I must of been lucky and purchased a accurate one. Don't know of anyone in my circle of firearms owners that have gotten any bad #1's or any other rifle for that matter. Today I'm finding that most hype about something is usually to sell some type of product or service.
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  #6  
Old 07-15-2009, 04:30 AM
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[they're like every other gun model. Some will shoot out of the box, some need tuning and a few won't shoot, period.] - +1

That's pretty much the skinny on it. Mine have always been accurate, with my current -06 regularly grouping well under an inch @ 100yds w/factory ammo - although I put no store in group size for a hunting rifle like the #1.

I'm more interested that it place it's first shot to the POA every single time, period - since I haven't seen the game animal yet that hung around for me to shoot a group on it, unless it was already DRT.

.
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  #7  
Old 07-15-2009, 06:05 PM
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If your #1 isn't grouping, one thing you can try before any more intensive bedding tricks is simply put a rubber washer between the forearm screw and the forearm.
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  #8  
Old 07-17-2009, 10:00 PM
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Have owned 2 #1's. both were dissappointing. A #1V in220swift would only(at best) shoot a 1 1/4in group. A Light Sporter 7mm Mauser couldn't hit a bull in the butt, however it was beautiful. It handled poorly as it was extremely butt heavy,but man it was beautiful. Tried all sorts of things with the forearm hanger on both rifles,didn't work. see ya, Bill
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  #9  
Old 07-18-2009, 01:15 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thegrandenigma View Post
I was told a factory Ruger No. 1 is a 3 moa gun out of the box. Is this true? How do you accurize a gun like this? Is it pretty well the same as a bolt, only no bolt? I was under the impression that this gun was a very accurate gun outta the box. What gives?

I'm thinking of a Ruger No.1 in 25-06

Mine in .45-70 is certainly way better than 3 moa out of the box.

Chris.
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  #10  
Old 07-18-2009, 05:43 PM
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Something you might try...........When you shoot your Ruger try resting the rifle under the receiver instead of under the forearm. Most of my single shots shoot better this way. Another trick: Take the forearm off and rest the rifle on the hanger. If it shoots better this way then you know the fore arm and or foward bedding need work...............Hope this helps..........
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  #11  
Old 07-25-2009, 11:34 AM
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I have a No#1 in both 45-70 and .458. They are very accurate indeed and digest a great variety of ammunition and hold accuracy. Many of the Newbies that start into the Schutzen sport start with the No#1's. before going to the traditional style rifle. I have never encountered one that didn't shoot the advertised.
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  #12  
Old 08-01-2009, 08:12 AM
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The blocks in the end under the spring hanger work wonders, The forearm if laminated or synthetic can be rididly beaded to the barrel. Witch is easier then Floating it. This will make great strides. The butt stock should be ridgidly beaded to the action as well. Sometimes the action can be tweeked to lock up a bit tighter too. Trigger work can help but I like the ruger trigger.
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  #13  
Old 08-01-2009, 04:56 PM
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I think this might be the post Jim H mentioned above
http://www.shootersforum.com/showthread.htm?t=17533
Bones

Last edited by Bones; 08-01-2009 at 05:09 PM. Reason: first link posted did not work
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  #14  
Old 08-04-2009, 08:33 AM
gcf gcf is offline
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As long as they are set up right at the factory, they will shoot like a house on fire - w/ the right load. Problems that I have seen w/ some No.1's include sloppy chambering, overly long freebore, & incorrectly bedded fore ends.

I had an older No.1-S in 45-70, that would group handloaded 405 grain hard cast into 5/8".

I sent a recently purchased (new) No.1-A in 7x57, back to the factory to have a bore issue corrected, not long ago. The issue was resolved quickly, & it now groups my handloads between 0.5" - 0.75", which ain't bad for a factory hunting rifle.

Had the opportunity to discuss fore end contact point / bedding (a real hot button issue) w/ the tech that did the work. If performed correctly in the first place - & there IS a correct way to do it, free floating, tensioners, epoxy, etc., are not necessary for fine accuracy.

Contrary to what you may hear from the critics, a properly setup Ruger No.1 will shoot very well.
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Last edited by gcf; 08-04-2009 at 08:42 AM.
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  #15  
Old 08-04-2009, 01:50 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bones View Post
I think this might be the post Jim H mentioned above
http://www.shootersforum.com/showthread.htm?t=17533
Bones
THAT'S THE ONE THANKS!
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  #16  
Old 08-05-2009, 05:38 AM
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My #1H Tropical Rifle in .375 H&H
shoots 1 1/2" at 100 yds with 300
grain Hornady solids and 1 1/4" with 300
grain Hornady soft nose. I am
using a 1-4X scope and feel
this is quite acceptable
accuracy for a hunting rifle.

The only mod I ever made
was to remove a bit of material
from the forward tip of the
safety thumbpiece so that the
cartridge case does not hang up
during ejection. I've had mine for
about 25 years and really like it.


Bwana Dave
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  #17  
Old 08-08-2009, 06:35 AM
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I have a No. 1 ina 270Wby Mag, It didn't shoot good at all until I hand loaded for it. I blamed the factory ammo.
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  #18  
Old 08-08-2009, 05:39 PM
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I have a #1V in 25-06 that shoots handloads just fine, giving me .6" to 1" groups all day.

I would like to know how you ground down the safety tang. Mine has the same problem - preventing the case from fully ejecting.
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  #19  
Old 08-22-2009, 04:55 PM
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This is what I did to accurize my #1V in 25-06.

http://shootersforum.com/showthread.htm?t=17533&highlight=Ruger+approach

My original intent was to use it double duty as a varmint/deer rifle. Way too much gun for varmints but it can certainly reach out and touch something. Mine is very accurate but truth be told it is a bit finicky as to which bullet it will shoot.

Retumbo is the best powder for my gun with 100 grain Nosler Ballistic tip bullets and Sierra 117 grain flat base bullets. H4831 is the go-to powder with Sierra flat base 87 grain bullets and Speer TNT bullets. Each of these loads shoots well under 1/2 MOA in my gun, usually I get one ragged hole and if the group starts to open up I know it's time to scrub the bore. That being said, I also have loads that shoot baseball size groups. I hope I run out of those bullets soon. I keep trying different powders with them but my gun just doesn't like heavy boat tail bullets. At the range today I put 3 out of 3 shots in a bottle cap at 187 yards. Don't think for a minute the #1 can't shoot well.
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  #20  
Old 08-22-2009, 07:47 PM
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I saw your write-up a couple of weeks ago, Flashhole, and in fact I saved it on my computer. I think what you did is within my means though I might try the Hicks Accurizer. I haven't quite yet found the loads to give me the groups yours is shooting, but it shoots well enough to where I don;t need to spend lots of money on it. That's what makes the things you did so enticing.

Although.......this happened to me last Saturday at the range: I bought one of those walmart bipods and put it on the #1V. Now, this goes against everything I've read about supporting the forearm as close to the action as possible. BUT!....shooting some Nosler 115gr Ballistic Tip handloads I shot a 4-shot, .4" group! I fired five rounds. The first round was up about 1/2" from the upper-most bullet of the 4-shot group. Of course I excluded it from the group measurement

I couldn;t duplicate that with the next set of rounds I had with me...some 120gr handloads that consistently shoot about .75". THis time, with the bipod rest, the group opened up to 1-1/4" or more. The bipod will go on my Rem700 next time at the range.

I have made no modifications to this rifle so, at this time, I'm passively keeping my eyes open for some of that rubber gasket material.
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