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  #61  
Old 12-22-2012, 07:00 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hasse-91 View Post
What caliber are you talking about, nvshooter?
The .458 Accurate Reloading. Uses the 375RUM brass. I guess it's opened-up at the neck, "shouldered down" a bit and a .458-diameter bullet squeezed in. Doesn't leave much of a shoulder, but it does not have a belt. There are a whole bunch of the AR rounds. Five or six, I think. They were designed and developed to use commonly available brass, a common boltface diameter of .532" and to fit into long-action receivers with minimal-- if any-- problems. You should be able to do a quick search and find some juicy info about them. They've been around since 2007, I think. I'd suspect dies and various stuff are available to form and reload this caliber. Because it is an operational (and advertised) round, you know there is a reamer and headspace gauges available to do the gunsmithing.

Good to hear from you, Hasse. Keep the questions coming. I shall try to answer to the best of my knowledge...

Quality Cartridge Reloading Brass 458 Acc Rel (Accurate Reloading) Box

Last edited by nvshooter; 12-22-2012 at 07:04 AM.
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  #62  
Old 12-22-2012, 08:17 AM
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Brass for Hasse's .458 super-boomer...

Quality Cartridge 458 Accurate Reloading

.458 Accurate Reloading brass: 20 cases; 60 bucks. Don't let 'em lay. Gotta be reloadin' dies available if the brass is being sold commercially. Redding? Forster? RCBS? Hornady? Don't know. Shouldn't be hard to find, though...
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  #63  
Old 12-22-2012, 08:47 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nvshooter View Post
The .458 Accurate Reloading. Uses the 375RUM brass. I guess it's opened-up at the neck, "shouldered down" a bit and a .458-diameter bullet squeezed in. Doesn't leave much of a shoulder, but it does not have a belt. There are a whole bunch of the AR rounds. Five or six, I think. They were designed and developed to use commonly available brass, a common boltface diameter of .532" and to fit into long-action receivers with minimal-- if any-- problems. You should be able to do a quick search and find some juicy info about them. They've been around since 2007, I think. I'd suspect dies and various stuff are available to form and reload this caliber. Because it is an operational (and advertised) round, you know there is a reamer and headspace gauges available to do the gunsmithing.

Good to hear from you, Hasse. Keep the questions coming. I shall try to answer to the best of my knowledge...

Quality Cartridge Reloading Brass 458 Acc Rel (Accurate Reloading) Box
Wow, thatīs a nice case! Iīm just not really shoore what caliber i could shoose.... I would like to have something thatīs alreaddy made right now when I donīt have the monney for custom dies and all that i need. Anny sugestions? I btw hate "midway sweden". It doesnīt contain as much good stuff that your midway does!
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  #64  
Old 12-22-2012, 09:57 AM
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Originally Posted by Hasse-91 View Post
I would like to have something that's already made, right now when I don't have the money for custom dies and all that I need...
My advice then is to step back, Hasse. Just wait. Look around. Don't buy just because you think you must. Take your time. Look for used guns that may fit your need or desire. Only a very few times have I bought impulsively, and those guns were later sold at a loss. Didn't want 'em, deep down in my heart. One, I just disassembled and threw away-- its parts scattered from dumpster to dumpster about town. Point is, take some time to think about what you want. Maybe start saving for something really special. Ought to be some very fine, handmade guns to be had in Sweden. You do make the Saab and Volvo there, so high-order manufacturing and custom handwork is not a foreign concept to the Swedes. I'm a trucker. Just about 20 years, now. One thing I tell first-year drivers when they ask me about X, Y or Z regarding trucking is that "You can almost never get into trouble by going too slow." Same with buying guns. Same with just about everything. It took me five years of driving to learn to "go slow." I have just accelerated your learning curve 'bout buyin' guns by that five years. Choose wisely...
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  #65  
Old 12-22-2012, 10:43 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nvshooter View Post
My advice then is to step back, Hasse. Just wait. Look around. Don't buy just because you think you must. Take your time. Look for used guns that may fit your need or desire. Only a very few times have I bought impulsively, and those guns were later sold at a loss. Didn't want 'em, deep down in my heart. One, I just disassembled and threw away-- its parts scattered from dumpster to dumpster about town. Point is, take some time to think about what you want. Maybe start saving for something really special. Ought to be some very fine, handmade guns to be had in Sweden. You do make the Saab and Volvo there, so high-order manufacturing and custom handwork is not a foreign concept to the Swedes. I'm a trucker. Just about 20 years, now. One thing I tell first-year drivers when they ask me about X, Y or Z regarding trucking is that "You can almost never get into trouble by going too slow." Same with buying guns. Same with just about everything. It took me five years of driving to learn to "go slow." I have just accelerated your learning curve 'bout buyin' guns by that five years. Choose wisely...
I know exactly what you mean nvshooter! Iīm taking it quite slow. It all started when i got my first rifle. A Husqvarna 1640 30-06 Springfield, itīs a "custom" M98. Husqvarna builded it on a M98 at first and then made som own things on it. I like the action, they has good price because they arenīt made annymoore. I haven been trying some other rifles and actions but i still come back to this action. Whatīs positiv is that they made another action in Magnum, 358 Norma Magnum. So itīs not at problem to create a custom gun from them. I have choosed to use them for my projects. They costs about 300-800 US right now. And i have founded 3 gunsmiths that could help me with rebarrel and other problems. So right now itīs just to choose wich caliber i want in 458. I want to get some caliber to start on and then feel it, and then i know if itīs something for me or not. African calibers has been moore popular here in Sweden so itīs not to hard to get them sold if i really dont want them.

I really appreciate that you all take your time and help me! Iīm speechless! No one here on a swedish forum would ever type this much and help like this! Thank you all!
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  #66  
Old 12-22-2012, 11:27 AM
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Talking ...20 years with the 375-338

I see several comments and theory’s on the 375-338 (375 Taylor) and comparisons but no real users of the cartridge. As for the 375 Taylor I have a custom (wildcats are all custom) rifle that I used for guiding in Alaska for several years and found it to be more than adequate for all the game hunted. I chose this caliber because I wanted a shorter 2.5 inch action. With the 235 Speer Hot Core at 2870 FPS its deadly and I have taken deer, sheep, caribou and moose without fail and with this bullet it shoots as flat as a 180gr. from a 30/06 out to 300 yards. My middle load is the 260 Nosler Partitions at 2687 fps. A better Moose load it also has been outstanding for Elk and inland bears.

Moving up to the upper end for the dangerous game my loads are the 300 gr. Partition, 300 Hornady DGX or DGS at 2555 fps and have used the Barnes 350 at 2293 fps. All are accurate and typically all the combinations I have talked about shoot at or under an inch. All of these loads are heavily tested and chrongraphed. Each load produces over 4000 foot pounds at the muzzle and over 3500 at 100 yards. All depending on bullet construction would be more than sufficient for the big bears close up. On one occasion the 300 Nosler put down a 10 footer in Alaska at less than 25 yards.

I have owned rifles in the 375H&H, 375-338, and 375 Ruger. The 375 Ruger for a short time during a cartridge review for a magazine and found that during testing and reloading there is not a lick of difference between them. I know the gun writers say the 375 Ruger out performs the other two but that’s not the case. True my 375-338 has a 24 inch barrel so the velocity I am getting is a little skewed but not by much. Recent testing all three with the similar components (260 Accubonds were used only because I have several boxes given to me) I came up with the following data. The 375H&H, 2616 fps and shot an inch and half; 375-338, 2651fps and as usual shot under ū of an inch and the 375 Ruger 2639 fps and shot right at an inch. This is information is condensed but suffice it to say the loads were found to be close to maximum, accurate in the rifle used, several powders used (and yes even the Superformance to try to get the max out of the Ruger) and Federal 215M primers.

So….. my 2 cents …. If you find any of three calibers in any rifle and it fits your budget you will have a great round to take to the woods. For a tid bit more….. the 375-338 Taylor DOES NOT use the belt for head space (ing). The only two cartridges that typically do are the 300H&H and the375H&H (I have both) as they do not have a real visible shoulder. They were designed that way for (cordite) to permit smooth feeding from the box magazine and in double rifles as they do not possess a rim.

Rifles:
Remington 700 Custom Shop 375 H&H, 23inch barrel
Mauser vz-24 Custom Hart Barrel, 375-338, 24 inch barrel
Ruger M77 Haweye African, 375 Ruger, 23 inch barrel

I do not give out complete recipes for reloading for obvious reasons.

Last edited by Rando300SAUM; 12-22-2012 at 11:30 AM.
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  #67  
Old 12-22-2012, 12:33 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rando300SAUM View Post
I see several comments and theory’s on the 375-338 (375 Taylor) and comparisons but no real users of the cartridge. As for the 375 Taylor I have a custom (wildcats are all custom) rifle that I used for guiding in Alaska for several years and found it to be more than adequate for all the game hunted. I chose this caliber because I wanted a shorter 2.5 inch action. With the 235 Speer Hot Core at 2870 FPS its deadly and I have taken deer, sheep, caribou and moose without fail and with this bullet it shoots as flat as a 180gr. from a 30/06 out to 300 yards. My middle load is the 260 Nosler Partitions at 2687 fps. A better Moose load it also has been outstanding for Elk and inland bears.

Moving up to the upper end for the dangerous game my loads are the 300 gr. Partition, 300 Hornady DGX or DGS at 2555 fps and have used the Barnes 350 at 2293 fps. All are accurate and typically all the combinations I have talked about shoot at or under an inch. All of these loads are heavily tested and chrongraphed. Each load produces over 4000 foot pounds at the muzzle and over 3500 at 100 yards. All depending on bullet construction would be more than sufficient for the big bears close up. On one occasion the 300 Nosler put down a 10 footer in Alaska at less than 25 yards.

I have owned rifles in the 375H&H, 375-338, and 375 Ruger. The 375 Ruger for a short time during a cartridge review for a magazine and found that during testing and reloading there is not a lick of difference between them. I know the gun writers say the 375 Ruger out performs the other two but that’s not the case. True my 375-338 has a 24 inch barrel so the velocity I am getting is a little skewed but not by much. Recent testing all three with the similar components (260 Accubonds were used only because I have several boxes given to me) I came up with the following data. The 375H&H, 2616 fps and shot an inch and half; 375-338, 2651fps and as usual shot under ū of an inch and the 375 Ruger 2639 fps and shot right at an inch. This is information is condensed but suffice it to say the loads were found to be close to maximum, accurate in the rifle used, several powders used (and yes even the Superformance to try to get the max out of the Ruger) and Federal 215M primers.

So….. my 2 cents …. If you find any of three calibers in any rifle and it fits your budget you will have a great round to take to the woods. For a tid bit more….. the 375-338 Taylor DOES NOT use the belt for head space (ing). The only two cartridges that typically do are the 300H&H and the375H&H (I have both) as they do not have a real visible shoulder. They were designed that way for (cordite) to permit smooth feeding from the box magazine and in double rifles as they do not possess a rim.

Rifles:
Remington 700 Custom Shop 375 H&H, 23inch barrel
Mauser vz-24 Custom Hart Barrel, 375-338, 24 inch barrel
Ruger M77 Haweye African, 375 Ruger, 23 inch barrel

I do not give out complete recipes for reloading for obvious reasons.
Thatīs really interesting information right there Rando300SAUM! One of my biggest dreams is actuly to travel to Alaska or Canada and hunt moose and bears. Thatīs one of the reasons that i want to have 375. Itīs interesting that you have been trying thouse kalibers. But if the 375/338 C-T not headspace on the belt, the 458WinMag would do it, or am i wrong? The whole case is a neck on that cartridge.

Werry interesting reading!
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  #68  
Old 12-22-2012, 01:59 PM
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Hasse-91

My comment on headspace referred to bottleneck cartirdges. True the 458 is a staight wall since it does not have a rim it must headspace on the belt. As for the 375 Taylor (375-338) I make the brass from once fired or new 338 cases and no fireforming, load up and go. For a time I would make up reduced loads to form the brass but found that it was not necessary. I load full power 235 Speer loads for off hand shooting and practice and they are ready to go. I find that the 375 Taylor is cheeper to reload than the 375 Ruger do to the cost of the brass.
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  #69  
Old 12-22-2012, 02:04 PM
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not production tolerances

Dear Hasse,

The 450 on the Ruger Basic case has just enough shoulder to head space onto. It's not enough for any factory to go with, considering production tolerances between different factories. If a factory put in enough case taper to work, in over the counter rifles, there wouldn't be any shoulders left. Ruger might squeeze out a 404 (.423), but why? Their boxy rounds do in twenty inch barrels, what the older ones do in 24-26 inchers. They are a little more like the shorty Rem 600 Carbines in 350 Rem mag. There were 416 and 375 wildcats made on this too. But they split stocks repeatedly. I've heard that Ruger won't send out a 23 inch barreled 416 Ruger, in a Wooden stock, for that same reason.

The man from Alaska is correct, in that you won't tell the difference in the field. But I didn't see what twist he was using to stabilize a 350 gr. bullet. I think it gets down to a 1 in 10 or 1 in 11, which will be expensive, unless you can have your 358 Norma rebored and rerifled to it. I would need a 1 in 10 or 1 in 11 twist barrel to stabilize the Hornady 450 gr. Target bullet, made for the Chey Tac's, at my lower velocities around 2200 fps. My 1 in 14 twist will stabilize the Woodleigh 450 gr. Round nosed soft points and solids, at that velocity. This must have a mind numbing recoil in a nine pound rifle.

I'm going back to the range with my Mauser .416, and a bag of NOS (New old Stock), 410 gr. solids, just to see what happens. I don't think I will shoot very many over the bench. In my "lively" rifle, recoil will be something else. Your 375, shooting 230 to 260 gr. bullets will produce the recoil of the 358 Norma, with those same bullet weights, too. There's no free lunch.
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  #70  
Old 12-22-2012, 09:35 PM
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Having built 2 375 Taylors or 375 X 338 Win I can say that this cartridge duplicates the 375 H&H in every way.

In todays world and because of the cost savings I would actually purchase a 375 Ruger on a Savage platform and call it good. The cartridge will hammer everything correctly hit. Can be used on every continent though they may not have ammo like the 375 H&H.

I am currently wildcatting the 338 X 375 Ruger and its running right with the 340 Weatherby.

Living in Alaska most of my adult life I get to see real life proformance on what these cartridges will do. Bring that 358 Norma along over if you ever make it and I will be happy to swap you out of it. It is an amazing cartridge and any number of things can be employed to alter that recoil or all but elliminate it.

The 358 Norma runs right with the 358 STA (Shooting Times Alaskan) and that is excellant company to keep.

Neal
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  #71  
Old 12-23-2012, 01:13 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rando300SAUM View Post
Hasse-91

My comment on headspace referred to bottleneck cartirdges. True the 458 is a staight wall since it does not have a rim it must headspace on the belt. As for the 375 Taylor (375-338) I make the brass from once fired or new 338 cases and no fireforming, load up and go. For a time I would make up reduced loads to form the brass but found that it was not necessary. I load full power 235 Speer loads for off hand shooting and practice and they are ready to go. I find that the 375 Taylor is cheeper to reload than the 375 Ruger do to the cost of the brass.
I think i would fireform it first, it would be a diferent preasure inside the case the first time you fire it if not formed. But how do you put the bullet in the case if the neck isnīt the right diameter?
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  #72  
Old 12-23-2012, 01:29 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by carpooler View Post
Dear Hasse,

The 450 on the Ruger Basic case has just enough shoulder to head space onto. It's not enough for any factory to go with, considering production tolerances between different factories. If a factory put in enough case taper to work, in over the counter rifles, there wouldn't be any shoulders left. Ruger might squeeze out a 404 (.423), but why? Their boxy rounds do in twenty inch barrels, what the older ones do in 24-26 inchers. They are a little more like the shorty Rem 600 Carbines in 350 Rem mag. There were 416 and 375 wildcats made on this too. But they split stocks repeatedly. I've heard that Ruger won't send out a 23 inch barreled 416 Ruger, in a Wooden stock, for that same reason.

The man from Alaska is correct, in that you won't tell the difference in the field. But I didn't see what twist he was using to stabilize a 350 gr. bullet. I think it gets down to a 1 in 10 or 1 in 11, which will be expensive, unless you can have your 358 Norma rebored and rerifled to it. I would need a 1 in 10 or 1 in 11 twist barrel to stabilize the Hornady 450 gr. Target bullet, made for the Chey Tac's, at my lower velocities around 2200 fps. My 1 in 14 twist will stabilize the Woodleigh 450 gr. Round nosed soft points and solids, at that velocity. This must have a mind numbing recoil in a nine pound rifle.

I'm going back to the range with my Mauser .416, and a bag of NOS (New old Stock), 410 gr. solids, just to see what happens. I don't think I will shoot very many over the bench. In my "lively" rifle, recoil will be something else. Your 375, shooting 230 to 260 gr. bullets will produce the recoil of the 358 Norma, with those same bullet weights, too. There's no free lunch.
Okey. I have to think about the ruger brass and 458 bullet alittle... If something else is possible. I will probobly shoot bullets around 300-350gr, nothing less. The 358 i will have as a project will have a Boyds Prarie Hunter Pepper Laminate. It will be alittle heavier than original and take the recoil better. The barrel will be a Lothar Walter 24" or 26" (600-650mm) to get out the max of the cartridge and get it more stable and heavier. Thatīs for the both of them, 375 and 458.
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  #73  
Old 12-23-2012, 01:35 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 338 Hammertyme View Post
Having built 2 375 Taylors or 375 X 338 Win I can say that this cartridge duplicates the 375 H&H in every way.

In todays world and because of the cost savings I would actually purchase a 375 Ruger on a Savage platform and call it good. The cartridge will hammer everything correctly hit. Can be used on every continent though they may not have ammo like the 375 H&H.

I am currently wildcatting the 338 X 375 Ruger and its running right with the 340 Weatherby.

Living in Alaska most of my adult life I get to see real life proformance on what these cartridges will do. Bring that 358 Norma along over if you ever make it and I will be happy to swap you out of it. It is an amazing cartridge and any number of things can be employed to alter that recoil or all but elliminate it.

The 358 Norma runs right with the 358 STA (Shooting Times Alaskan) and that is excellant company to keep.

Neal
Oh, i see. I just donīt want to have to manny rifles (the maximum here in sweden is 6 rifles). Thatīs why Iīm looking at 375 so i could hunt everywhere in the world, 458 for bigger games and a good stopper for bear hunting with dog here in sweden. But shoore, if wou want to swap a 358NM for a 375/338 Taylor thatīs no problem
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  #74  
Old 12-23-2012, 09:54 AM
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New Year 2014

Hasse-91,

Why don't you come back at the end of this new year, 2013, and tell us which six rifles you have then. I have a Marlin Guide Gun, so I'm covered for the 45 cal. already. I bet you will still be using your 9.3 x 62mm, because of the recoil considerations. I know my 8mm Wildcat Mag. doesn't rock me as bad as my 338 RUM, although they run together. By 2014, the RUM may be overhauled into a lighter recoiling belted Fifty cal. or a 404 Jeffery, rimless. But neither will be RUM wildcats, unless PT&G will sell me one of their oversized bolt bodies, with a custom left hand cocking cam.

Merry Christmas, and a happy 2013. You never have said where you live in Sweden, but the weather's finally broke open here in N. Central Idaho, and we have a little sunlight for once. Plenty of snow for alpine skiing within 50 to 100 miles or so, both North and South of us. Four to five feet on top of the runs, and bare pavement driving up to the ski lodges. The best of both worlds.
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  #75  
Old 12-23-2012, 10:54 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by carpooler View Post
Hasse-91,

Why don't you come back at the end of this new year, 2013, and tell us which six rifles you have then. I have a Marlin Guide Gun, so I'm covered for the 45 cal. already. I bet you will still be using your 9.3 x 62mm, because of the recoil considerations. I know my 8mm Wildcat Mag. doesn't rock me as bad as my 338 RUM, although they run together. By 2014, the RUM may be overhauled into a lighter recoiling belted Fifty cal. or a 404 Jeffery, rimless. But neither will be RUM wildcats, unless PT&G will sell me one of their oversized bolt bodies, with a custom left hand cocking cam.

Merry Christmas, and a happy 2013. You never have said where you live in Sweden, but the weather's finally broke open here in N. Central Idaho, and we have a little sunlight for once. Plenty of snow for alpine skiing within 50 to 100 miles or so, both North and South of us. Four to five feet on top of the runs, and bare pavement driving up to the ski lodges. The best of both worlds.
I think you didnīt understand what i said. Here in sweden you are alowed to own 6 rifles at the most. I does NOT want to own 6 rifles! I try to choose wisely and not just buy all of them because i THINK i would need them. The 375 and 458 has always been interesting, and i would really want to own them. At the moment i own 6,5x55 Swedish Mauser, 30-06 Springfield, 9,3x62 and a 12 Gauge. All of them will have to go exept the 12G. A 270Win or 280Rem will replace the 6,5. a 375 will replace the 30-06 and a 458 will replace the 9,3. Thatīs what i want. The only thing that stop me right now is monney....



I live in a little town namned Järvsö. Itīs alittle bit north of the middle of the country. itīs 350km north of Stockholm. Itīs almost 100cm of snow here, Itīs not that cold now, about -5* celcius. Alittle snowy but the sun shines alittle. Now itīs dark as coal here and the klock is 21:00.

Last edited by Hasse-91; 12-23-2012 at 11:02 AM.
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  #76  
Old 12-23-2012, 12:19 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hasse-91 View Post
I think you didnīt understand what i said. Here in sweden you are alowed to own 6 rifles at the most. I does NOT want to own 6 rifles! I try to choose wisely and not just buy all of them because i THINK i would need them. The 375 and 458 has always been interesting, and i would really want to own them. At the moment i own 6,5x55 Swedish Mauser, 30-06 Springfield, 9,3x62 and a 12 Gauge. All of them will have to go exept the 12G. A 270Win or 280Rem will replace the 6,5. a 375 will replace the 30-06 and a 458 will replace the 9,3. Thatīs what i want. The only thing that stop me right now is monney....



I live in a little town namned Järvsö. Itīs alittle bit north of the middle of the country. itīs 350km north of Stockholm. Itīs almost 100cm of snow here, Itīs not that cold now, about -5* celcius. Alittle snowy but the sun shines alittle. Now itīs dark as coal here and the klock is 21:00.

So they count the shotgun as part of your six long guns? I see dropping the 30-06 & 9.3 but I'd keep the 6.5x55 so you have a smaller gun. Besides, I've always read that the 6.5x55 kills big game way better than one would think and the lighter recoil would be a nice diversion from the big boomers you're looking to get.
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  #77  
Old 12-24-2012, 07:22 AM
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So they count the shotgun as part of your six long guns? I see dropping the 30-06 & 9.3 but I'd keep the 6.5x55 so you have a smaller gun. Besides, I've always read that the 6.5x55 kills big game way better than one would think and the lighter recoil would be a nice diversion from the big boomers you're looking to get.
Yes, they count every gun, rifle shotgun that need licens. A total of 6 licens guns. Only a airgun with less than 200m/s V0 doesn't need a licens.

Shoore, there is no problem to kill bear or moose with 6,5*55. But it doesn't interest me anny moore, it's actully booring to shoot. It's not a big problem to get the recoil down with a good silencer. The 270win or 280rem isn't a much differens than the 6,5*55 I think.
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  #78  
Old 12-24-2012, 09:20 AM
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Sizing...

Hasse, you asked a few posts up how you are to get the bullet to stay in the neck if the case has not been fireformed. Answer: You must first resize the cases in your resizing die before you charge with powder and slam a bullet into the case. The yet-to-be-fireformed case is still a tiny bit smaller than the chamber. The chamber will have a few thousandths (of inches) of clearance around the base and around the shoulder. The unfired case will fit. You fire it, it blows out just a few red hairs, then it's a hand-in-glove fit from there forward until the stars fall from the sky.

I have a picture of two of my mildcat cases side-by-side with a .30-06 case. The one to the far left is cold-formed and unfired. The case to the far right has been fired. You can see the ripples have been flattened out by the pressure of combustion and the sharp ledge where the neck had been turned has been pressed into the .120-inch (3.048 mm) radius inside the chamber at the shoulder. This radius is to make sure the case clears the sharp corner in the chamber.


Last edited by nvshooter; 12-25-2012 at 12:28 PM.
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  #79  
Old 12-24-2012, 01:37 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nvshooter View Post
Hasse, you asked a few posts up how you are to get the bullet to stay in the neck if the case has not been fireformed. Answer: You must first resize the cases in your resizing die before you charge with powder and slam a bullet into the case. The yet-to-fireformed case is still a tiny bit smaller than the chamber. The chamber will have a few thousandths (of inches) of clearance around the base and around the shoulder. The unfired case will fit. You fire it, it blows out just a few red hairs, then it's a hand-in-glove fit from there forward until the stars fall from the sky.

I have a picture of two of my mildcat cases side-by-side with a .30-06 case. The one to the far left is cold-formed and unfired. The case to the far right has been fired. You can see the ripples have been flattened out by the pressure of combustion and the sharp ledge where the neck had been turned has been pressed into the .120-inch (3.048 mm) radius inside the chamber at the shoulder. This radius is to make sure the case clears the sharp corner in the chamber.

I think you mentioned it before but what case are you making your 300 NDM off of? How does the capacity compare to the standard 300 Win mag?
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Old 12-25-2012, 04:44 AM
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Join Date: Dec 2012
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nvshooter View Post
Hasse, you asked a few posts up how you are to get the bullet to stay in the neck if the case has not been fireformed. Answer: You must first resize the cases in your resizing die before you charge with powder and slam a bullet into the case. The yet-to-fireformed case is still a tiny bit smaller than the chamber. The chamber will have a few thousandths (of inches) of clearance around the base and around the shoulder. The unfired case will fit. You fire it, it blows out just a few red hairs, then it's a hand-in-glove fit from there forward until the stars fall from the sky.

I have a picture of two of my mildcat cases side-by-side with a .30-06 case. The one to the far left is cold-formed and unfired. The case to the far right has been fired. You can see the ripples have been flattened out by the pressure of combustion and the sharp ledge where the neck had been turned has been pressed into the .120-inch (3.048 mm) radius inside the chamber at the shoulder. This radius is to make sure the case clears the sharp corner in the chamber.

Oh, never seen that before! Now I understand how it works! :-)
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