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  #1  
Old 03-06-2017, 06:59 AM
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Marvel Mystery OIl


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Just wondering what your thoughts are on substituting Marvel Mystery Oil for Kroil either by itself or mixed with Shooters Choice as bore cleaner?
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  #2  
Old 03-06-2017, 07:59 AM
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Its' better than rat pee and not as good as straight Shooter's Choice or Hoppe #9, IMO.
It's great for engines, though.
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Old 03-06-2017, 12:11 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JBelk View Post
rat pee, AKA Hoppe #9,
Fixed it for you Jack
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  #4  
Old 03-06-2017, 12:19 PM
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WHAT!? Bad mouth a man's only true cologne?? Are you some kind of heretic??

Truth be known, all I've ever cleaned barrels with is military Cleaning Compound Solvent. I don't use JB either. A tube of Ultra-Brite toothpaste has the same amount of the same grit and is much cheaper and everybody has it.
I use ATF for most gun oil and use home-made copper remover if I need it. I was in a shop just other day helping the 'smith and noticed he had fifty bucks worth of "magic juces" on his bench. Nobody has ever shown me a preservative better than Rangoon Oil or a solvent better than the cheapest on earth.
Nothing in gunsmithing is 'special' but 6-48 screws and now True Value Hardware has them too!
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  #5  
Old 03-06-2017, 01:52 PM
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Marvel Mystery Oil is 69 % mineral oil ( Johnson's Baby Oil is mineral oil ) , 29 % Stoddard Solvent (Mineral Spirits , AKA , paint thinner) the remaining 1% are 3 long named chemicals that are in Dry Cleaning Fluid.
The stuff is basically mineral oil and paint thinner with a tiny amount of dry cleaning fluid.
Kroil is a penetrating oil MMO would not be a good substitute. For a penetrating oil , mix equal parts ATF and acetone. For a barrel cleaner , mix up some Ed's Red Bore Cleaner.
The MMO will not hurt your gun it just doesn't have much solvent in it to cut crud.
MMO is not a bad general purpose CLP , the mineral oil is used in Rem Oil and the Stoddard Solvent has some cleaning ability.
Mixing it with shooters choice will not help the shooters choice's cleaning properties , you will be adding mostly mineral oil to the Shooters Choice.
When Shooters Choice CLP first came out I tried it , I thought that by trying to do two things , it wound up not being very good at either.
The bottom line is to mix some up and try it. Might be just great for your needs .
For years I had heard about Ed's Red Bore Cleaner , finally got around to trying it and discovered it to be a lot better than most of the overpriced products on the market.
Gary
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Last edited by gwpercle; 03-06-2017 at 01:54 PM.
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  #6  
Old 03-06-2017, 06:51 PM
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I have a generator that was running very poorly and idling rough. I changed the spark plug, air filter ,oil filter, fuel filter and put in fresh gas. Nothing helped. I was sure a new carb was required.
I decided to try the Marvel oil. I added an ounce to the gas tank and after three hours running, it was working like new. Good stuff
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  #7  
Old 03-06-2017, 09:47 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JBelk View Post
Bad mouth a man's only true cologne??
Are you some kind of heretic??
Cologne.... Maybe that's what that stuff would finally be good at, and yes.

To the OP:
Honestly I suppose it depends what you want the MMO to do in this mix, or why you need to add to your cleaner to begin with. As you can see from the friendly teasing with JBelk, I totally understand adding to #9. The only strong things about it is the stink and price.

But seriously what is it you want to accomplish, and at what price? I make gallon batches of E.R. because it works as quickly and effectively on powder fouling as 90% of the cleaners out there, but costs a fraction of what they do. It isn't marvelous or mysterious, it's just useful without requiring a mortgage.
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Last edited by Darkker; 03-06-2017 at 09:57 PM.
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  #8  
Old 03-09-2017, 06:25 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by .22-5-40 View Post
Just wondering what your thoughts are on substituting Marvel Mystery Oil for Kroil either by itself or mixed with Shooters Choice as bore cleaner?
What are you cleaning?
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  #9  
Old 03-10-2017, 04:13 AM
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I use Ed's Red for anything except heavy copper removal. As far as Marvel Mystery Oil goes, I know many guys use it, and I'm sure it's fine but what I've found, through a different pass time, is that the Marvel Mystery AIR TOOL oil is better. It has a corrosion preventative added and shows no signs of thickening or gumming up even years after application.
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  #10  
Old 03-10-2017, 04:52 AM
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The basis for most all 'gun oils' is 'compressor oil'. We can buy it cheap as auto transmission fluid. I've found that gun people don't like it because it has no smell. You CAN make your own private product by adding 'flavors' to it.
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  #11  
Old 03-10-2017, 07:57 AM
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OK,I got it! A little ATF, a little English Leather, and a little "Ole Stump Blower" from a Mason jar, and I've got a new gun oil! Thanks Jack!
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  #12  
Old 03-10-2017, 08:18 AM
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Quite literally, one of the most comprehensive test done on gun oils with military spec rust test and all, showed common 'compressor oil' for lubrication and to vastly improve rust prevention (which pure oil has little of) the addition of oleic acid improves rust protection in a linear fashion. SO, about half and half and a dash of something pungent, distinctive and manly and shazam! A new 'cologne' is born.
NOTHING beats the English Young's 303 and Rangoon Oil for classic aroma!! I dearly love the stuff.

Edit to add--Pure oil doesn't dry, gum or solidify. Oleic acid IS a hardening oil and so English gun oils form a 'varnish'. It is the brown 'varnish' found in the lock work of fined doubles. The good news is that it takes so little of it! Just enough to change the color of dry steel. "The same amount of oil, if applied to a shot glass, won't ruin whiskey."
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Last edited by JBelk; 03-10-2017 at 08:26 AM.
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  #13  
Old 03-10-2017, 08:47 AM
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Mom's Pfaff sewing machine oil was excellent stuff for gun oil . . . until she found out.

RJ
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  #14  
Old 03-10-2017, 08:55 AM
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RJ---My first gunshop job was across the street from FSU and many of our regular customers were associated with that University. My buddy Will and I set up a bunch of blind test for the chemistry lab for the petroleum students through an assistant professor. That's when we found out a popular brand of 'honing oil' for sharpening knives was Dextron ATF. Three brands of 'light machine oil/sewing machine oil' was the same stuff without the red dye.
I just checked ebay. Oleic acid sells by the ounce ($9.95)or by the gallon ($30) depending on the advertizing hype that goes with it. Same stuff.

"Sperm Oil" from the head of certain whales is a non-hardening, natural oil that was used in many of the early gun oils. It's still bought by watch-makers but my Brownell's circa 1970 pint is worth a hundred times what I paid. Compressor oil is a good substitute but modern 'Positraction additive' is closer to the real thing.
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Last edited by JBelk; 03-10-2017 at 08:59 AM.
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  #15  
Old 03-11-2017, 04:52 AM
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'Positraction additive'

Now that's something that rivals a skunk for stink!
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Old 03-11-2017, 07:41 AM
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'Positraction additive'

Now that's something that rivals a skunk for stink!
Akin to a trip to the rendering plant . . . . . . . . where they render skunk butts. and cost $15 for 4 ounces in 1985!!!

I wouldn't use it to oil the wheels on my red wagon. It's function was to make 90 wt gear lube "less slick" so the positrack clutches would grab and not slip. It "chemically altered" () the sulfur (an EP lube additive) content (as explained in a GM Dana 60 differential class) to promote "friction" between the fiber and metal discs of the clutch pack. No, wait , WHAT??

ATF isn't "sperm oil" or "light machine oil" either, it's a petroleum distillate that has water dispersents, emulsion (so it won't turn milky from water) and anti-foaming additives, high pressure additives (SEE SULFUR). corrosion inhibitors (see sulfur), fluidity enhancers (so it will flow in cold weather) and detergents (to prevent ash build-up from the sulfur breaking down). Which is why today's ATF (Dexron/Mercon IV or maybe IX by now) is such a good fuel additive for both diesel (and older carbureted) fuel systems. It keeps things clean (detergents) lubed (see sulfur) under high pressure. (no sulfur additive in diesel fuel anymore)

Remember Mercon type "F"? And Dexron? (spell it right or go home) How they were incompatible? Like vinegar and oil? And now they are "the same"?

I will stick to my Shooters Choice gun oil, it smells like it works.

RJ
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Old 03-11-2017, 08:38 AM
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Originally Posted by recoil junky View Post
Remember Mercon type "F"? And Dexron? (spell it right or go home) How they were incompatible? Like vinegar and oil? And now they are "the same"?
Ha!!! "Spell it right or go home". Love it!!
But if we are going for proper terminology, there never was anything called: "Mercon Type F". Type F was a fluid for Pre-1977 vehicles (with a few oddballs till around 1980). Then Mercon appeared. Mercon and Type F don't interchange.
They mix well enough however. For an over simplified explaination look at it like this:
The differences are all essentially additive packages centered around the clutch disks design. Mercon and Dex are PDC, and that's why many fluids interchange. Type F however is MUCH more aggressive, putting Type F in a car requiring Dex or Merc will bang your head around like you put in a shift kit from JC Whitney.
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Old 03-11-2017, 09:12 AM
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Sorry Darkker, an anachronomical screw up. Dexron and Mercon were still not completely compatible as were "Type F" and Dexron. In mechanic's circles. The words "Mercon" and Type "F" were sometimes interchanged to make the incompatibility point even as late as 1987 when Ford and Chevy got their collective heads together (albeit secretly) to come up with an "oil" that would work in both makes (and the then "new" full time 4 wheel drive transfer cases) causing fewer catastrophic transmission failures under warranty due to "Bill" down at the Phillps 66 Station adding the wrong oil.

And there was something about putting Dexron in a Type "F" that would disintegrate the seals used by one or the other. I'm at a loss as to which one did what, but it was the cause for many many failures and warranty issues in both camps.

RJ
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Last edited by recoil junky; 03-11-2017 at 09:15 AM.
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  #19  
Old 03-12-2017, 04:22 AM
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Since I clean more often than most, bore cleaner can get pricey. A well seasoned benshrest shooter gave me a recipe for a cleaner that I have now used for a decade or more, and it works. But a couple ingredients may not be available anymore.

The base ingredient was the old GM Top Engine Cleaner, metal can. From what I've been told, the new product is not the same. I'm no chemist, so I have no proof. The second is 28% ammonia, the stuff used in old blueprint shops. Household ammonia is water compared to this stuff. Then a little hydrogen peroxide then MMO.

The top Engine cleaner is a carbon solvent/remover. Obviously the ammonia is for copper fouling, the peroxide is an excellerator for the ammonia, and the MMO for.....whatever you think it may do. I have made this mix up many times, and I have substituted Kriol for the MMO and have seen no difference in the way it works.

But nothing smells like Hoppes #9!
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Old 03-25-2017, 03:34 PM
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I like eds red a lot , i use rubber gloves when using...
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