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Browning Hi Power Trigger Axis Pin

8K views 0 replies 1 participant last post by  JayPee 
#1 ·
One of the most famous and perhaps classic automatic pistol designs in history is the Browning P-35, or Hi Power. It has been copied, cloned, reverse-engineered and produced in a host of countries since its introduction. Like mosts things mechanical, there are some hidden glitches that can come home to roost when the amateur workman starts to tinker, and the Hi Power is no different. Yep, even in this fine gun you can get into trouble if you don't know one little fact about it, and the same holds true of all its copies and clones. Here is that one little fact: The trigger axis pin only goes in one way and only comes out one way and if you do it the wrong way you're in for some additional repairs. So for those of you who may want to remove the trigger for replacement, smoothing up, or for removing the magazine disconnector, here is an illustrated primer on how to remove and reinstall the trigger axis pin correctly, and an easy fix for those that have been removed incorrectly.

Removing the trigger from one of these pistols is a simple operation involving only the punching out of the trigger axis pin that runs through the frame above the trigger. HOWEVER, THIS PIN MUST BE DRIVEN OUT FROM RIGHT(EJECTION PORT SIDE) TO LEFT(SLIDE STOP SIDE) ONLY ONLY ONLY. AGAIN, DRIVE IT OUT ONLY FROM THE EJECTION PORT SIDE TO THE OPPOSITE SIDE. REINSALL IT FROM THE SLIDE STOP SIDE TO THE EJECTION PORT SIDE. NO EXCEPTIONS.....Here's why: The pin is not tapered, but the right side hole is slightly smaller than the left side hole in order to give the pin a nice, tight friction fit. If you drive out the pin in the wrong direction you will enlarge this hole and the pin will start to "walk" on you during firing and you will have to reset it every few rounds. Some gunsmiths don't even know this.

Here is a popular Browning Hi Power Clone, the FEG P9M. The pin we are referring to is the one immediately above the trigger. This gun, you sharp-eyed gents probably know, has had a C&S wide combat trigger installed in it, which requires the correct removal and replacement of the critical trigger axis pin.


Here are two photographs that show a close up view of the pin from both sides of the gun, along with instructions on which way to drive the pin.


This is the left or slide stop side of the pistol. The pin comes out towards you and goes back in from this side, seating up nice and flush with the frame. Flush is all you want. Please note that the flat end of the pin belongs on this side of the gun., i.e. the round end goes back in the hole first.



This is the right or ejection port side of the pistol. You would drive the pin out from this side towards the slide stop side. You begin by placing a quarter-inch or so brass punch on this pin and tapping it firmly to get it started. Then you would use an appropriate pin punch to push it all the way out the other side. When properly reinstalled, the rounded side of the pin looks just like this, and projects only this far. Please note that the rounded end of the pin sticks out this side. You never reinstall the pin from this side.

WHAT HAPPENS IF YOU MESSED UP AND DROVE THE PIN OUT THE WRONG SIDE AND ENLARGED THE RIGHT SIDE HOLE? Well, you never want to do this, but if you did, or if you bought a used gun in which someone else did it, there is an easy fix. Here 'tis.

I recently bought a used FEG PJK 9HP in which this had been done and a very fine HP smith on another forum gave me a simple fix that works like a champ. You simply remove the pin and line the circumference of the right side hole with paint, let it dry for 36 hours, and drive the pin back in. I used a Rustoleum oil based flat black paint I had laying around and it only took one coat in my case. I applied it with a long hat pin after letting a small quantity of paint set up for a short while to prevent it from running freely. My friend uses flat black modeling paint. You should be able to feel the pin go back in a little harder than before as you seat it to the correct depth. If not, go for another coat. After this comes test firing. My FEG has fired over 100 rounds and the pin has not moved at all, so I think we've nailed it. Here is the PJK 9HP, FEG's flagship clone, that had the "walking pin".


If you want a new pin, Brownell's and Browning both sell them for around five bucks, and the Browning pin fits the FEG's fine.......i.e. P9M, PJK 9HP, and Charles Daly Hi Power. Obviously, I love these guns. Best wishes.

JayPee
 
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