Shooters Forum banner

Problem with SportKing High standard Model 103

19K views 24 replies 9 participants last post by  JBelk 
#1 ·
Hi All,
Came into a Sport king Model 103 Serial # 160XXXX probably not fired for 15 years. Of course no manuals with it. Am using Winchester SuperX .22 LR. The problem is that I can't get it to be fully semi-automatic. When I cock it and fire the thing, then the used cartridge will reject and load the next bullet. Then if I pull the trigger, nothing happens. To get it to fire again, I cock again. It willl eject the unused bullet and load a new one, then it will fire, but then again it won't fire 2 times in a row.
Does anyone have any ideas?

Thanks!

Mike
 
#2 ·
Have you taken the slide and firing pin apart and cleaned, degreased and lubed them? What your describing sounds like a sticky firing pin. That would be my first guess without looking at the gun.

I don't know how similar the HD military is, but here is a schematic of it. The slide may be enough alike that it will give you an idea how to break it down.

http://www.e-gunparts.com/productschem.asp?chrMasterModel=0750zHD MILITARY
 
#10 ·
I know this is an old post but it is similar to the problem I am having. The Sear Bar & Trigger Pull Pin Assembly is sticking in the triger. Is this suppose to just pull out of the hole on the trigger or is there something retaining it in the trigger?
The pistol was left in a damp environment and had to be thoroughly cleaned, the trigger is free on the pin but that trigger pull pin is binding in the trigger and I would really like to remove it.
Thanks
 
#11 ·
It sounds like the sear bar spring has come out or disconnected. It's only held in by the left side grip. The spring keeps the bar pushed upward so the bar can engage the sear.
The bar is only 'plugged' into the trigger and should slip right out. Don't force it. That gun has some fragile parts in it.
 
#12 · (Edited)
I took the grip off and removed the plate that covers the bar and took the spring out. The pin is tight in the trigger, and it won't come out. Even tried to pull it out with small needle nose pliers. Also tried some upward pressure while moving it back and forth, and no luck.
I have also been putting pblaster on it and trying to work that in, but no luck.
 
#13 ·
Giving gunsmith advice by internet is like buying watermelons by mail order. ;)

The sear bar only has to operate in a very limited fashion. Be sure you need to take the trigger out before messing with it. The sear and hammer can be removed without removing the trigger and they're more likely the problem if the bar is working. The bar disconnects from the sear if the slide is not all the way closed. The little vee spring is what operates it and gives the trigger a return motion.

Unless you're familiar and comfortable with torsion springs, I wouldn't remove the sear or sear spring. They can be a bear to replace. BUT, that sear spring is likely your problem if the sear bar spring is not. The sear should be sprung to the rear. The sear bar pulls it forward at the top which pivots out of engagement with the hammer at the bottom. If the sear does not have spring tension on it, that's your problem.

High Standards (and many more) are guns put together in fixtures and jigs using slave pins and spring capture devices. They're not meant to be torn down for cleaning like a 1911. Removal of the barrel and slide is all that's usually necessary.
 
  • Like
Reactions: xjsdvr
#17 ·
I will give the brake cleaner a try, but would really like to get the bar out of the trigger. There was corrosion /rust built up on the trigger. The trigger swings free 9n it's pin, but the pin for the bar is snug in the trigger. In the picture somebody else posted above its where 10910 goes into 10320. I think those are the numbers as its hard to read on my phone, and I don't see a place to attach pictures, just a place to put a link to a picture.
Everything else moves fine.It will fire correctly now , just the pin is tight. The trigger wouldn't even move when I got it.
 
#18 · (Edited)
That pin is more than likely pressed into a blind hole. The pin most likely has flats in it that the bar operates on and in. It only has to swing up and down by .005 or so at the trigger and rotate less than two degrees. If it does that, it could be that's all it can do dirty or clean. I'm just saying to make sure what little it moves now is all its supposed to move.

If there is not a drift hole in the right side of the frame to knock the pin out, you have no choice but to arm strong it and be prepared to make or buy another sear bar.

You can kill any corrosion dead with nothing but a tea kettle. Direct steam into the pocket of rust until it gets as hot as the steam. That changes red rust to black rust (bluing). Add a little oil and the gun is good to go.
 
#21 · (Edited)
Some carb cleaners will semi-melt the nylon used in FN pistol parts and caustics don't kill rust, but do promote it.

For internal bad rust (see pic) use diluted 5 to 1 water and 'Naval Jelly' or other phosphoric acid rust remover.
DO NOT TOUCH ANY BLUING!! Bluing is 'black oxide' and is more commonly known as 'rust'. Rust remover takes it right off! Kill the action of the acid with boiling water with a tablespoon of baking soda added. Boil in clean water, blow dry and add a good spray-on oil.

Now is the time to grind a special-nosed little tool to grab that stud like a stubborn molar.
 

Attachments

#23 ·
Assuming the pin is .062 mild steel....it'll take 300 lbs or so. If the trigger is steel, heat it up with a little torch from the bottom and let the heat crawl up into where the pin is stuck. That will relax the fit some, you can get more by sharpening a piece of dry ice to put on the pin you're pulling. The combination will sometimes let parts fall out.
 
#25 ·
I'm still not sure why you want to remove it. The problem is in the sear return spring and it can be removed and replaced without messing with the trigger and sear bar.
I would imagine the pin on the sear bar was longer than needed by about .010. When the worker assembled the gun, he smacked the sear bar one time and that peened the end next to the frame enough it wont fall out but it still moves the tiny amount it needs to to work.
 
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top