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Resizing lube

8K views 21 replies 19 participants last post by  Huntducks 
#1 ·
What is the importance of using ONLY case resizing lube when resizing cases? I sized 300 or so 30-30 cases using a stick lube called stainless stick lubricant on about half the cases and wonder lube for the other half. I took the die apart and cleaned it when i was finished and it wasn't really that messy and i didn't get dents in a single case using either lube but every die maker that i am aware of states "use only case resizing lube" now one reason being may be that it doesn't contaminate powder but i was using lee dies with the easy expander and found i only needed to lube inside the necks every 15 or so case before i could detect any drag at all and on the case i used the lube inside the neck i swabbed with a q-tip and found i didn't need to swab those following it. Am i missing some other reason to only use the specified lubes for resizing?
 
#2 ·
Am i missing some other reason to only use the specified lubes for resizing?
I suppose that one of the reasons is that the die makers also market sizing lube. I'm only guessing, but there are probably over 20 lubes that do not say they are specifically for case re-sizing, but will still work. Lee openly admits that their sizing lube was originally produced for a different purpose. I've never stuck a case with it.
I'll bet Butch Wax would even work.

The wonder lube that you used... Was that the same Wonder Lube used for BP shooting? Kind of waxy.
 
#11 ·
The wonder lube that you used... Was that the same Wonder Lube used for BP shooting? Kind of waxy.
Yes it is for black powder shooting and since it seasons the bore of frontstuffers i just assumed it would be alright to use it for sizing my cases since i have a very large supply of the stuff for my bp collection. As i mentioned it seemed to do a great job but then again i was only sizing 30-30's. so i was wanting to know what some of these guys that know a lot more about it than me thought about using it.
 
#3 ·
Many of todays resizing lubes are designed not to contaminate the powder if it happens to come in contact with it. I like Hornedy's One Shot, but there are lots of good ones. I really hated the roll on lube pads and the goop you put on them.

It's easy to get some One Shot inside the necks and not worry about it getting in the powder if it's not removed.
 
#5 ·
One reason is that a whole lot of things that seem real slickery are just not up to the task of case sizing. Using something not designed for the job only to stick a case in a die would be annoying at best. It does indeed take a high pressure lube - meaning something that will maintain a lubricating film even under high pressure - to do the job.

Personally, my case lube world begins and ends at Imperial Sizing Die Wax. I've also used Hornady Unique (which is actually Mink Oil paste) with good results, but only until I discovered Imperial.
 
#7 ·
Delighted to. If you handle cases with your left hand, wipe your first two fingers and thumb lightly across the surface of the Imperial. As you move cases from bin or loading block to the shellholder, that will apply enough lube to the case. You can spin the first case in your fingers a bit to evenly coat it, and thus "prep" the die. Run your fingers up the side of the case as you remove your hand. Tap every tenth case mouth into the wax to lube the expander ball, and re-swipe your fingers at the same time. That's it.

You can wipe or tumble the wax off cases after sizing if you choose, but it isn't necessary unless you over-apply it. If you can see any wax whatsoever on a case, you have over-applied it. I use an old towel with a bit of rubbing alcohol dribbled on.
 
#8 ·
Just wipe your finger & thumb across the wax, and roll/rub it on the case. It only takes a tiny amount to grease the case.

.
 
#10 ·
I use Astro-glide or KY...Oh wait...wrong forum for that post!
ROFL

20 or so years ago I dealt with large punch presses 80-125 ton presses that we used to either blank out various shapes or to contour form large pockets and profiles in brass, aluminum and steel. In the process we used a substance we called Draw Oil. It would remind you of Karo syrup in consistency. The first time I used RCBS case lube, that's what came to mind. The lube was designed to disperse easily not to create pockets of lube which would create dents in the material surface but, would leave a film on all of the major weight bearing surfaces to allow uniform stretching of the material. Just as important was the ease of which it would clean up.
I often think of that when I buy a 2 oz. bottle of sizing for $4.00 and think that we used to pay $15-$20 for a 5 gal can of the draw oil.:rolleyes:
 
#12 ·
For years now I've used a 50/50 mixture of STP and ATF, a pint of each is probably a life time supply. I just get a drop on a fingertip and rub cases like Rocky described. I do tumble cases in corn cob media after sizing.
 
#13 ·
I use RCBS case lube now but I used motor oil and a pad for 20 year and that worked fine as well. The difference may be in how easily you can get the lube off the case. Firing oily rounds puts excessive thrust loads on the breachblock or bolt due due insufficient "traction" on the chamber walls.
 
#15 ·
So I am now an Imperial die sizing wax user, I have read a little about cleaning this stff off the case before charging the case with powder, can it be so easy as to tumble them in corn cobb, media? then priming them , here is what I am thinking, lube, resize, trim ( if needed), debur / camphur, tumble pime, charge, seat the bullet and fire, How does this sound?
 
#18 ·
I once used all these fancy case lubes until one day I was talking to an old shooter at Camp Perry during the matches. An advantage to reloading is saving money. He told me to use PAM cooking spray. Cheap! Doesn't foul powder! Fast and easy! Lay out an old clean t-shirt. Spray it with PAM. Lay out a hundered cases or so and roll them on the shirt with your hand. Done with the outside! Spritz a little on a q-tip and go to town on the inside of the necks. You can have a hundred or more lubed in under 10 minutes. Once sized just roll them on a clean t-shirt to remove any excess.
 
#20 ·
Supposedly sizing lube is formulated to be less of a penetrant, and to be compatible with your powder and primers in small amounts. I have discovered a lube called "Rooster" and it works like a charm, but is fairly gummy and needs a few minutes in corn cob to get cleaned off.
 
#21 · (Edited)
I don't like to have to tumble clean my cases after lubing and sizing to remove the lube. That's why I use the Lee Sizing Lube. It does not contaminate the powder and you have no worries. You lube once, resize and decap, trim if necessary, prime, charge and seat the bullet and all is good to go. Very step by step and easy.
 
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