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  #1  
Old 04-14-2017, 09:55 PM
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What do you use to sharpen your knives?


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This is my Smith's,since 1886 kit.
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  #2  
Old 04-15-2017, 05:36 AM
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Almost anything,

ONCE you learn how to sharpen, MANY things can be used from smooth river stones, ceramic coffee cups, belts, shoes, steel, diamond, Arkansas stones, "kits", rods, & we end up with almost as many different sharpeners as old holsters. I have many. When I want to do "my best" a set of Japanese water stones from woodworking magazine, 800/1200 grit & polishing grit/paste, does my best. Something small/light for more frequent or field use. I've had the same set of Buck Arkansas stones & honing oil since the 70's.
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  #3  
Old 04-15-2017, 07:35 AM
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I made my own. Piece of hard wood. The ends are cut off and screwed into the main block and 220 wet/dry paper is on one and 400 wet/dry paper on the other, they do a great job! Gonna glue a strip of leather on the back to strop with. Also have a sanding pad to put the paper on but I like the wood block' better.
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  #4  
Old 04-15-2017, 09:44 AM
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I use a ceramic rod that was once part of a light bulb.
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  #5  
Old 04-15-2017, 12:10 PM
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The old 2 sided stones followed by my pants leg
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Old 04-15-2017, 10:55 PM
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For me it depends on the knife grind and on the steel type. For harder steels like D2 or SV30. I'll use a fine and ultra-fine diamond plates. For Scandinavian grinds in A2 or O1 or something, waterstones are my go-to. For convex-grind blades like Bark River knives and others, sandpaper on top of leather on a board in grits of 300, 600, 800, 1000, 1500, and 2000, depending on the condition of the edge. And for quick touch-ups on nearly any blade (except convex-grind), I like the Spyderco Sharpmaker with ceramic stones. If one of the waterstones is out and already wet, they're actually better for all touch-ups, but they're usually stowed away, soaking..

Wood chisels? Sandpaper on 3/16" plate glass, in same grits as above. Waterstones for touch-ups.
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  #7  
Old 04-16-2017, 05:15 PM
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What do you use to sharpen your knives?

Been using my hands for purdy near 60 years now to sharpen my knives.
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Old 04-16-2017, 05:48 PM
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For stainless butcher type knives I use a German made steel to touch up during use. Also a diamond steel and a two sided stone when they got really dull . For butchering meat you want a feathered edge that saws through more than it cuts. For skinning you want a sharpe smoother edge that does not pick up fur .
For thicker carbon steel hunting and tactical type blades I use the diamond steel and the stone depending on how bad the edge is.
Never seen the need for fancy sharpening jigs but they do work ok .
Used a small long flat carborundum stone in Vietnam but I lost it some place since.
I do still have the first knife I ever owned as a cub scout a German Solingen made knife but the blade is well worn out and sheath long gone .
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Old 04-17-2017, 05:22 AM
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For kitchen and most commercial knives an oil stone and strop (oil tanned cowhide glued to a piece of oak) . My problem is my homemade knives. I try for a flat grind but usually get some type of convex grind on the edge and seems like no amount of work on the stone gets them sharp enough. Went to the 1x30 belt grinder and did a little better but found it awkward to use in the normal position. So I totally disassembled, tweaked and tried to get all the vibration possible out of the machine. Then placed a very thin piece of cork drawer liner on the platen giving the belt a very slight cushion, turning on its side made a big difference for me, seems like a more natural motion.
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  #10  
Old 04-17-2017, 05:24 AM
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oh yea silicon carbide 800 grit belt
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  #11  
Old 04-17-2017, 07:04 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dogdoc View Post
For kitchen and most commercial knives an oil stone and strop (oil tanned cowhide glued to a piece of oak) . My problem is my homemade knives. I try for a flat grind but usually get some type of convex grind on the edge and seems like no amount of work on the stone gets them sharp enough. Went to the 1x30 belt grinder and did a little better but found it awkward to use in the normal position. So I totally disassembled, tweaked and tried to get all the vibration possible out of the machine. Then placed a very thin piece of cork drawer liner on the platen giving the belt a very slight cushion, turning on its side made a big difference for me, seems like a more natural motion.
My son bought one of those commercial sharpener's that work with a belt like that. I've got a big sander that run's belt's that's more like this one. I don't use it much. I do have some stone's around and one of those Arkansas Store jobs but never get them out anymore.
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Old 04-17-2017, 08:00 AM
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veg tanned, I am losing it with taxes due!!
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  #13  
Old 04-17-2017, 08:22 AM
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I only use a strop on my knives. Sometimes I use a grey honing compound if I need a little more aggressive stropping, but the rest of the time it's Lee Valley's green honing compound. Comes out to some where near 0.5 microns.

I rarely have any arm hair on my left arm due to the fact that I always test my knives to see if they pop hairs off. That's sharp enough for what I need. Depending on use I can go a few months without stropping or as I did in the fall, I field dressed, skinned and processed a doe with an opinel #6 folding knife and it barley needed a stropping when done.

If you have never tried stropping, I suggest it. It's actually therapeutic to me. Sit there and watch the kids play or watch a tv show or just sit in the quiet. Something about making that pocket knife sharp again is very relaxing.
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Old 04-18-2017, 04:39 AM
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I look longingly at the abundance of hair on my right arm to test blades on and then dejectedly at my left with the sparse cover available. As of now I am moving to above the elbow!
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  #15  
Old 04-18-2017, 04:22 PM
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Lots of systems work to sharpen a knife but I have never seen a 240 Volt socket in a tree trunk so I only use at home what I can also use in the field . Making new knives is a different issue .
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  #16  
Old 04-21-2017, 05:23 AM
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Home I use the Worksharp electric sharpener and in the field for a touch up the Smith's 2-step pocket sharpener.
https://www.walmart.com/ip/Smith-s-C...pener/37292733
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  #17  
Old 04-21-2017, 01:21 PM
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A BIG medium India stone, a BIG 600 grit diamond plate and a ceramic rod.
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  #18  
Old 04-22-2017, 11:14 AM
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Sharpening

At home, I use a Lansky sharpening system. On the trail, I carry a flat diamond-grit, or a pocket-steel to clean up edges.
BUT......we sometimes get two elk on the ground at once (one guide-two hunters) so I (and many other guides) carry as many as eight knives in a saddle pocket. Our weather will freeze an elk pretty quickly. Sure, I can use an Arkanstone (have one in my camp box/foot locker), It's just that the Lansky is easier, and I can do that while I'm watching a movie on TV. Rutting animals cover themselves in mud/dirt. That destroys edges quickly on knives of inferior steel. All you REALLY need is two inches of good steel to dismantle a 1500 lb moose quickly and effiecently. the smaller blade is sharpened quicker than the 12" Bowie. No need of swords nor cannon in the mountains!
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Old 04-27-2017, 03:43 PM
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I have a very old kit I bought that you clamp the knife blade in a vertical stand that has slotted holes at exact angles, and narrow stones of different grits that go thru the slots and sharpen it at very precise angles. I also have a couple of ceramic rods for really smoothing it up. And a basic kitchen counter electric sharpener for 'roughing down'.

When I get a little time I'll dig it out and take a picture of it.
I also have a crap load of knives. Mostly different pocket knives, tactical, diving, hunting/skinning and survival. I'll try to get a pic of them too, but the bottom drawer where most of them are is covered up with tons of crap stacked up in front of it while I'm remodeling the bathroom. argh!
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  #20  
Old 04-28-2017, 12:17 PM
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Arkansas Tri Stone Or My Diamond Tri Stone & a Leather Strop to Finish off after Sharpening on the Stones, All of my Knives end up finished Razor Sharp, That will Shave the hair off of my Arm etc.
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