Shooters Forum banner

How Do You Make a Lever Gun More Accurate?

14K views 25 replies 23 participants last post by  Ragnarok 
#1 ·
I own a Winchester model '94. I have replaced the stock sights with a Williams Fool Proof receiver sight and the Williams Fire-Sight front sight. What else could I do make this rifle more accurate without resorting to a scope?

LeverLover
 
#2 ·
You may be expecting too much. What kind of accuracy are you getting now? If you are getting 1-2 MOA then there is very likely nothing you can do to increase accuracy short of buying a bolt or single shot rifle. Good sights helps one shoot better, they do not make the gun shoot better though.
You can always try different ammo, reloading, different bullet weights...

And see sticky thread above.
 
#3 ·
You've already done it! With a '94 Winchester it doesn't get much better. It's a close range rifle. 150 yards is a long shot. 50 yards is better. Realistically, if you can keep your shots in a 6" circle at 100 yards you'll bring home the venison. This is exactly how I've got my Winchester set up. My Centennial '66 M94 has the long octagon barrel and it's devestating on the local fauna.

If you want a longer range deer rifle, get a Remington 740 or a Winchester M70 in .270 or .30-06. Put a 2-7 or 3-9 scope on it and you'll have NO problems out to 300 yards or so. A hunting rifle can only be made just so accurate ... the rest is the shooter. If you can keep your 100 yard shooting inside two inches, you'll get game out to 300 yards, no problem. All it takes is practice. :D
 
#6 ·
[What else could I do make this rifle more accurate without resorting to a scope?]

Exactly what level of accuracy are you currently getting from it; and what do you expect ?

Two things to keep in mind:

* A Win 94 is a hunting, and not a target, rifle - so it's an unreasonable expectation, to await microscopic groups from one.

* When shot off a bench(rest), leverguns should NOT be held/shot the same as boltguns with one-piece stocks.

Mine have all given their best accuracy by not letting any part of the gun or it's stock(s) touch anything except my hands/shoulder, while my hands were sitting on the benchrest pad(s) - IOW, a dupe of field shooting, just a little steadier.

Y'see, sometimes it's a matter of accurizing the rifle shooter ILO the rifle. ;)

.
 
#7 ·
Trigger job to take it under 4lbs, 3lbs would be ideal.

Craft quality ammo like you were setting the gun up to shoot benchrest with it. I've had a few 94s in 30-30 that shot under an inch at 100 with peep sights they are very capable of it.
The aperature size is important, too small and it will be blurry for older eyes, I like putting a small one in my lathe and slowly enlarge it until I get a good sight picture.
 
#8 ·
Been lurking about for while and decided to join when I read your question I own a Win 94ae & I'm able to shoot 1hole to 1/2 " groups at 50M and 1" groups at 100M. The only way I can do this is with a scope & no wind I pretty much have to be on my game to do it the rifle is a straight shooter I've impressed a few naysayers at friendly shooting competition with some fellers from work. When I opened my case & told them this was my baby they were like it only Winchester but after the shoot they were all licking there chops to get hold of it the guys at work started calling it 1 of 1000 :D. I run Win 170gr loads it seems to like that weight the best. Try different ammo until you find what the gun likes I'm able to hit bowling pins at 200yrds consistently with this rifle with a 100M zero I have adjust for a 8" drop at that distance. so keep trying & don't give up unless there is something wrong with the rifle then if it can be fixed or you may have to go to a scope I'll leave you guys with a couple of pics of mine.




 
#12 ·
Buy the book "Accurizing the factory rifle" by McPherson. He goes into detail on forearm and tang area bedding. A good trigger is where I would start . You can try a Wolff reduced power main spring if pull isn't undr 4 1/2 lbs. Some of my leverguns shoot real well , some just O.K. But there is usually room for improvement on a stock factory rifle.
 
#13 ·
Do a little research on Paco Kelly's web site. He's written on accurizing lever guns. Back in the 70s and 80s there were articles on accurizing lever guns.
Most times it required glass bedding the action into the butt stock and relieving pressure on the forearm.
Simple enough to do from what the articles said. Working on the butt stock entailed removing the stock bolt, removing the stock and checking the contact surfaces, If need be steal some lip stick from the bride, rub it on the metal surfaces, replace the stock giving it couple of raps with a mallet. Remove stock again and see if there's incomplete contact by looking at the stock for lip stick.
You now have two choices scrape off the lip stick, remove the high parts or clean the wood and metal and fill in the low spots with epoxy bedding.
Now you can work on the forearm and see where it's rubbing.
Paco knows what to do.

Jim
 
#14 ·
You did great by changing the sights. Now you gotta practice with different loads until you find the one that shoots best. Then you'll be able to hit as far as you can see clearly. I almost put a peep sight on my 94AE so that I could shoot better groups past 50 yards, but found a great deal on a scope last year. The scope is 1.75-4 x 32 mounted low. I was totally amazed. I never thought my woods hunting rifle could shoot so well, and still handle like an extension of myself. Just like "seasprite" it's my baby.



remember to practice practice practice and then practice some more
 
#15 ·
I don't know how to make the current crop more accurate. But I do think that they could work on a new variant that would be every bit as accurate as a bolt. At least as far a normal people are concerned. Let's face it, the barrels could be totally free floating (make it free of the tube somehow or just use a magazine) and make the action itself stiffer. I don't think that the lever action mechanism is really a detriment to accuracy. No more so than a bolt with a compromised tube. Think about it, when was the last time you ever saw a bolt action that wasn't slotted out for the handle movement and ammo? That slot surely must weaken the tube surrounding the bolt. The stock could be synthetic and strengthened with an aluminum block, and free floating of course. And one piece....

It would be heavier. But then varmint and tactical rifles are heavy too.
 
#16 ·
Contact Krieger, Hart, Pacnor or Shilen and get an estimate of the cost for them making you a match grade barrel. Then after you make your order prepare to wait a year or three.

Seriously what kind of accuracy are you looking for. My brothers 30-30's shoot 3"-4" at 100 and my 32 Win spcl does about 2"-3" when I do my job. It was the luck of the draw and aperture sights that mine is more accurate than theirs and I would be happy with anything under 4" at that range because in the woods I'm not likely to see anything beyond 60 yards anyway.
 
  • Like
Reactions: VThillman
#18 ·
That is a 1971 Honda CT70H. It is a four speed with a hand clutch. It is the bike I drove 43 years ago when my uncle, who is now passed, owned it. Aside from a few replacement parts (tires, brakes, bearings, levers, seat cover etc.) it is all original. I have it registered with collectors plates and what a blast to ride around my rural neighborhood.
 
#20 ·
With irons, sight radius as well as a good rear sight matter. I have two Rossi '92s in 357mag I love to shoot long range with, a 24" oct bbl rifle and a 20" rd bbl carbine. I outfitted the rifle with a Marbles tang rear sight with a target aperture and a Lyman globe front sight which increased the sight radius from 20" to 30". The Depth of Field enhancement of the tang's aperture so close to my eye makes the front sight and the target clear which allows me to aim better so I hit what I want to, not just what the rifle was pointed at.

With my 158grn handloads, it's surprisingly accurate even over 200yds. I'm able to hit 8" steel plates from the bench with ease out to about 240yds and even out to 300yds, a 18" wide steel ram shaped plate is doable if the wind is down. My carbine has conventional rear sights with a 1/16" bead front and a 16" sight radius which works well out to 150yds or so even though my 67 year old eyes wished the rear sight was a bit clearer. The 8" plate rings most of the time at 150 yds from the bench unless I screw up.

My Mossberg 464 has the stock Marbles sights on it which are the same I put on my Rossi carbine a few years before I got the Mossberg. With it and my plinking 150grn reduced power rds, I able to hit a 6" plate at 100yds offhand most of the time. I've made sure I've got a well fitted buttstock on each, and lightened the trigger on the Rossis but haven't done the Mossberg just yet. That and finding a load each likes has made them all fun shooters and I think respectively accurate leverguns.
 
#21 ·
Loosening the barrel bands did wonders for the accuracy of my old Winchester 94. I could get groups under 3" at 200 yards with it -- Patridge style front sight and a Williams receiver sight. However, that was 30 or so years ago when my eyes were in much better shape.

My Mossberg 464 requires just the opposite! Had to tighten the barrel bands to get the best accuracy out of it. Now, with the right loads, it shoots just over 1 MOA -- Skinner sights front and rear. Maybe the eyes aren't all that bad after all!

Take care & God Bless!
-Joe
 
#25 ·
I will pass along Marshall Stanton's advice to get your lever gun to shoot better groups! Your going to need to "slug the barrel" this is were the tight spots are for starters.;)

Look on the Beartooth Sight and find the section where using a Lapping Kit will help in the process of getting better accuracy from your lever gun or smoke pole. :)

I did this process and used Marshalls book, it certainly did wonders for my lever guns as well as the muzzle loaders too. My .444 Marlin was shooting 3.5 to 4.5 groups at 100 yds. Now after the lapping process, it now sill shoot under 1-MOA, same goes for the muzzle loaders too. This takes time but is well worth the effort!:cool:
 
#26 ·
There may be something to the 'loosen the bands' advice posted above. I've got a 1970's Winchester M94 .30-30 that's pretty rough...had been rusty and cleaned and cold-blued and rusty again..etc...somebodys well-used/battered truck-gun I presume..Was like that when I got it.

Anyhow ruff or not that particular M94 shoots fantastic...it's bands and mag-tube are sort-of loose..forearm is a little loose..gun shoots great. I always wondered if this particular M94 shot so good because the front was all 'stress relieved'??
 
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top