Lyman Great Plains kit - Shooters Forum
» Advanced

Go Back   Shooters Forum > Blackpowder > Muzzleloaders
Register FAQ Members List Donate Calendar Search Today's Posts Mark Forums Read

LinkBack Thread Tools Rate Thread Display Modes
Old 12-26-2005, 06:29 AM
Beartooth Regular
Join Date: Dec 2005
Posts: 46
Lyman Great Plains kit

Registered Users do not see the above ad.

Santa brought me a .54 kit yesterday, 1 in 60 twist for round balls. I did an archive search but still have couple questions. After reading reports of rough bores, did any of you remove the breech plug and lap the bore? What is the prefered method of bedding the barrel in the stock? Looks like free floating isn't possible but how do you gauge how much pressure is on the barrel, indeed how much do you want?

Reply With Quote
Old 12-26-2005, 08:22 AM
faucettb's Avatar
Beartooth Regular
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Peck, Idaho
Posts: 12,619
Welcome to the forum Scott.

Check out this link here on Beartooth bullets. This method really works.

I've built several of the Lyman Great Plains rifles and found them to be of excellent quality. They are one of the closest images of the original great plains rifles I've ever found.

My last one was exactly as you describe and it shoot very well.

Check out the firelapping article and good luck with your new muzzle loader.
Bob from Idaho

Last edited by faucettb; 12-26-2005 at 08:41 AM.
Reply With Quote
Old 12-26-2005, 06:15 PM
markkw's Avatar
Beartooth Regular
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: FL
Posts: 1,946
Don't worry about lapping unless you have a problem. Lyman actually come with really nice bores, only saw one in many years that required only a little more than a few minutes with steel wool/scotch pad.

To eliminate any inital roughness, which you may or may not feel even with a tight patch on the jagg, use a piece of red or brown scotch pad on the jagg and do full strokes all the way in, all the way out. Usually 10 to 30 strokes (in & out is one stroke) will smooth out any roughness in the bore w/o any fuss. When done, give it a good hot water & detergent wash, dry and lube with a natural oil/grease. Never use petroleum oils in a muzzleloader burning black powder, the hydrocarbons only serve to produce more soot/ash and the end result is heavy dry fouling that will be a bear to remove.

If you do have to lapp, no need to remove the breech plug, you can cast a lapp into the bore but simply driving in a tight fitting soft lead slug is a whole lot quicker and easier. Screw a ball puller into it and pull it back out. Apply lapping grit of choice and stroke as described above.

Word of note, Lyman usually runs their bore .002" over the nominal size so yours should be .542" Not a big deal but keep this in mind as you will probably do good with a .535" ball and .010" patch rather than a .530 ball and .015" patch. Hard to say though until you shoot it and see what it likes.

Barrel does not need to be free floated nor does it need to be bedded. All you need to do is make sure the wedges are snug but not excessively tight as to be pulling on the barrel/wood hard enough to deform either one. If they need loosening, remove metal from the wedge, not the barrel lug (wedges are way cheaper & easier to replace if you mess it up). If you need to tighten, wrap a piece of brass shim stock around the bottom of the barrel lug so that it cannot push out when the wedge is inserted.

To gauge how much pressure is on the barrel, you should be able to insert the wedges with your thumb all but the last 1/16" before it bottoms out then you should need to use something like the short starter handle or whatever makes you happy to finish "pushing" not hammering it in (that is unless you got really strong fingers/thumbs and can do it with hurting your finger tip. Coming out should be the same way, push with something until the sharp end of the wedge is flush with the stock and then it should pull out with some finger effort. Any tighter is too tight, any looser is too loose.
"Carry the battle to them. Don't let them bring it to you. Put them on the defensive and don't ever apologize for anything." ~ Harry S. Truman

Liberty is only assured as long government fears the people!
Reply With Quote
Old 12-26-2005, 09:25 PM
Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2004
Posts: 19
Everything markkw said. However, both of my GPRs did have some sharp, rough edges on the lands, which you can easily check by running a cotton ball wrapped around a jag down the bore and checking with a bore light for snagged fibers. I smoothed mine, just as he mentioned, with a Scotch pad and by shooting a couple of hundred patched balls.

I have a .50 and a .54cal and both like a .005 undersized ball with patch cut from Walmart pillow ticking, which mics out at around .016". Also, whether you smooth the bore or not, make sure you thoroughly clean the bore before shooting. Investarms uses a very sticky, thick grease for corrosion protection in the bore and if you don't get it all cleaned out, before shooting, it will bake onto the bore and give you all kinds of problems. I found the best way to clean mine was to spray the bore liberally with WD-40, let it sit overnight, clean out with a brush and more patches soaked in WD-40 and then finally clean with warm, soapy water.
Reply With Quote
Old 12-27-2005, 06:29 AM
Beartooth Regular
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: North Central Ohio
Posts: 623
I have two of the Grear Plains Rifles. One in percussion, one flintlock, both .50 cal. The bores were pretty good in both of them.

The GPR is a very authentically styled reproduction of a Hawken. If you have some wood working skills, and take your time, i.e. don't ever rush anything, or do it just to get it done, you'll have a really nice rifle and something to be proud of.

Most of the GPR's I've seen have been very good shooters. The advice in other posts in this thread are all right on target too. After you get yours together, you might want to take a good look at the trigger and learn how it works. They are adjustable, but in most cases they are still way too heavy for my tastes. There are some replacement triggers avaiable for the GPR's which will enable you to get the let-off, both set and unset, down to the point where you can have an extremely accurate rifle. Order a copy of the Dixie Gun Works catalog. There's a lot of good stuff in there.

Good luck!
Reply With Quote
Old 12-28-2005, 03:24 PM
Beartooth Regular
Join Date: Dec 2005
Posts: 46
Thank all!

I do appreciate the input!

Reply With Quote

Thread Tools
Display Modes Rate This Thread
Rate This Thread:

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Need help identifying Lyman bullet molds hayes1966 Bullet Casting 18 11-07-2005 07:19 AM
List of reloading equipment according to suggestions jlstorm Handloading Equipment 24 06-16-2005 06:20 PM
Looking to get a Lyman Great Plains 454casshootr Muzzleloaders 16 03-11-2005 10:31 AM
newbie, waitin on my 336c to arrive scfisher Marlin 336 Lever Guns 17 11-13-2004 07:13 PM
Lyman service report J Miller Leverguns and Their Cartridges (General) 0 07-02-2004 02:32 PM

All times are GMT -8. The time now is 11:05 PM.

< Contact Us - Shooters Forum - Archive - Privacy Statement >


All Content & Design Copyright © 1999-2002 Beartooth Bullets, All Rights Reserved
Privacy Statement | Contact Webmaster
Website Design & Development By Exbabylon Internet Solutions
Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8
Copyright ©2000 - 2017, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
SEO by vBSEO 3.6.1