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  #21  
Old 02-28-2017, 07:27 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Darkker View Post
There could be something I haven't crossed, for sure. But I've never heard of a BDC in anything but a SFP, the BDC is how they approximate a FFP.
Thank you for catching that and correcting me. You are right. I have 2 scopes of similar power from different manufacturers, one has an moa reticle matching the turrets and it is FFP, the other is a BDC reticle and it is SFP, but for whatever reason I was confusing the two and thinking it was FFP.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Darkker View Post
You can "tune" your BDC with different wheels, but that requires money and time with every change. Not an issue with a FFP, it's just adjustment with what you already have.
I may not be using the proper term, but when I use the word "tune" in reference to BDC reticles, I am referring to one of several methods I am aware of. You are probably aware of them as well, but for the benefit of others reading:
1) Some manufacturers use diamonds or some other marking. For Leupold, they use two different sized triangles (see attached pic). Your caliber is selected from a chart labeled group A, B, or C and you would then zero at 200 or 300 yards accordingly, then dial the power to the appropriate triangle.
2) You zero your rifle, then move out to a range such as 500 yards. You would then center your crosshairs on a hold over point that you can pick up again. Shoot a group from the bench, walk down range and boldly mark the group so that it can be seen through your scope. Return to the bench and center your crosshairs over your original point of aim. Then dial down the magnification until the 500 yard subtension falls in the center of the group while your crosshairs remain on your original point of aim. Mark or record the magnification setting on the scope.
3) Use an app such as Nikon SpotOn. If you are not using a Nikon scope, try to find a Nikon reticle that has the same subtensions as your reticle in a similar power scope. In the app select the scope, select your caliber and the specific off the shelf ammo you are using (the list is extensive), or plug in your own velocity, BC, and weight (you can also save your load data). The app will label the reticle with the appropriate yardages. If you are not happy with them, adjust the magnification in the app until you are.
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fixed vs variable for short range-img_20170228_191820842.jpg  
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  #22  
Old 03-01-2017, 12:07 PM
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That caliber just get a 10 or 12x good quality and be done w/ it. Maybe a Weaver T24 w. dot, depending on your eyes. That small dot could be hard to see on a squirrel way out there.

That just reminded me of my first squirrel w/ my high school gift to me. Mossberg that I had mounted a grad gift (Weaver B6) on. The squirrel was enjoying a hickory nut just about straight up in big hickory tree. He saw me and looked down at me when I touched it off. I had to sidestep to prevent him hitting me. Got 2 more before I headed home for dinner and others over the next couple seasons out of the same woods.
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  #23  
Old 03-01-2017, 02:53 PM
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I do like variables, Leupold, Bushnell, Redfields, Burris, and Zeiss are all good. However, when I pull out my 700 30-06 for deer season I still find that poor old 4x Leupold to be as faithful as it has been for 45 years. Wonderful for 100 -150 yard shots, but I have killed 3 deer and 1 pig at about 350 yards so it can be made to work if you know where to lift the crosshairs. Now, my 22 Hornet Martini Cadet wears a 6x Unertl Small Game scope that will not possibly get removed for any variable ever made. And, my ancient Remington 40X-B in .222 will never give up its 12x Redfield and it still puts every bullet in the same hole at 100 yards if the wind isn't blowing too hard and if my nerves have not gotten too out of control.

Last edited by butchrx; 03-01-2017 at 02:56 PM.
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  #24  
Old 03-01-2017, 03:37 PM
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Read what Mr. Bimner said again. Makes total sense. Granted, todays variables are quite dependable, still, they have more parts, more moving parts, which under any circumstance, increases the possibility of something going wrong. And they, by nature of more parts, are heavier.
I use a K-Hornet on squirrels a lot--1000 to 1500 shots per spring--and I shoot out to 400 yards + (I don't claim to hit 'em all) with a fixed 6X and need nothing more.
Everyone has their own opinion, but of my 20+ scopes, none are variable. I have from 4X to 12X and have never felt under prepared, and I never have to wonder, or check, what power my scope is set on while I'm hunting. Works for me. Each to his own!
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  #25  
Old 03-01-2017, 04:25 PM
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Do you expect to always be shooting in a range covered by the fixed power you choose? If not, go variable.

Jeff
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  #26  
Old 03-01-2017, 10:42 PM
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I've got the same action in a .218 Bee, with a heavy straight-taper barrel put on years ago by Richard Hoch when he was in Montrose Colorado. I've had it in the closet for years waiting for me to finish putting the forend and a scope on it, and I'll be retiring in a month or two and will have the time, finally. I'm planning to put on a classic Lyman Targetspot or Litschert Spotshot, probably in an 8X or 10X. They're not cheap, if in good condition, but good modern glass isn't, either. I'm old-school about such things, and I just like the look and feel of the old classics. To me, putting a modern scope and mount on that Martini action looks like cutting a hole in the hood of an Auburn Speedster and shoving a 671 blower through it, complete with chrome scoop on top.
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  #27  
Old 03-02-2017, 05:28 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Purist View Post
.
3) Use an app such as Nikon SpotOn. If you are not using a Nikon scope, try to find a Nikon reticle that has the same subtensions as your reticle in a similar power scope. In the app select the scope, select your caliber and the specific off the shelf ammo you are using (the list is extensive), or plug in your own velocity, BC, and weight (you can also save your load data). The app will label the reticle with the appropriate yardages. If you are not happy with them, adjust the magnification in the app until you are.
That sounds more like refusing to stop using a crap system, and trying to make the scope even remotely close
I guess you could say tuning, to me that is simply trying everything to make it work, rather than a fine tuning effort.

That's the reason why I hate that system, with moving subtensions nothing is constant. With a FFP 0.1 mil or 0.25 MOA clicks are always constant at any mag.
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Last edited by Darkker; 03-02-2017 at 05:33 AM.
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  #28  
Old 03-02-2017, 08:29 PM
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In answer to Mr. weaselfire, yes.
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  #29  
Old 03-03-2017, 06:11 PM
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Fixed vs. Variable

Good question! I have used both. I grew up farming hay. To say that we had problems with ground squirrels is an understatement. At one point, we thought that we had over 2,000 per acre. Farmers still will buy you shells if you come shoot. I had a very accurate Remington 541S Custom Sporter, with a 3 x 9 Weaver on it. It worked well. I always kept it on 6x. I finally bought a fixed 6x Leopold, what a difference! For a 22 or .22 Hornet, I would do the same.
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  #30  
Old 03-05-2017, 08:43 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 48woody View Post
Hello; I'm sure this has been hashed over many times. i have searched but would like opinions for my particular use.
I have a BSA Martini Cadet in .22 K Hornet. I'm trying to decide between a fixed and variable scope. Will be used for plinking, paper punching and small game/varmint. Probably no further than 200 yards, more because of terrain than bullet potential. I like variables, have them on my other long guns. But was thinking about, how often will i use the lower powers. Thinking of something in the 3+- to 16+- range. or 10 to 15 fixed. Thought I might get a better? fixed for the money. budget 300-400. would like mil (dots and adjustment), or one of the horus styles. Never used a Horus style reticle but looks interesting, any thoughts.

Another question, with a fixed power scope, would there be any difference between FFP and SFP, or is it not applicable to a fixed power

I would like an old Unertl, lyman, Litschert (sp?), Fecker, but they are way too expensive and probably more fragile. Just would look good on the old Martini
I have looked a lot at the Athlon scopes. they seem to have a good bang for the buck ratio , and i have seen a number of positive reports

Thanks
It's a personal choice. I tend to prefer variables and that's all I have. If I were to use a fixed power for hunting it would be a 4X, If I were to use one for varmints it would not exceed an 8 power. You can do much better with a variable.
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  #31  
Old 03-14-2017, 11:24 AM
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YMMV but a 4x or 6x Leupold or?, will be small, light, provide great eye relief, and all the magnification you'd need for your application. 10 or even 12x seems too much for such a neat rifle as that!
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