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Discussion Starter #1
Hi, New to site and need some help. Picked up an Interarms Mark x in 7 Rem Mag a while back in what appeared to be in new condition. It was made in 1976 and is a Viscount model I believe. Gun has been a real challenge from the start. Front action screw was epoxied in action from factory I think, not fun getting that out. Needless to say it now has a new front screw. Extractor had a chip in it, would not hold cartridge on bolt face. I tried to fix but had to replace with a new standard one and hand fit it for a magnum. It works about as good as I think possible, my issue now is, it is not reliably ejecting shells. Most of time it will eject ok but last round in mag is 50/50. It also wants to eject on more of an upward angle than the others. I have really played with this and I think there is too much metal on the back of ejection port were right bolt lug raceway meets backside of ejection port. The 7 mag round is too big to fit in lug raceway and wants to bounce off of upper corner. My model 70s have an angular relief cut at the same point on action and eject flawlessly. Hoping somebody has maybe has seen this before and found a way to fix this. I have read others have had similar issues with belted magnums in Interarms Mark X but gave up on fix.

Thanks
 

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Your extractor is fitted wrong. It is the pivot point for the ejector and how it holds the case determines where the case will land.

The ejector is a small leaf inside the bolt stop box. Take the screw out of the top and remove the box, grab the ejector and pull it passed the spring and out the front.
It is the end of that part that hits the base of the case and flings it out. If somebody has filed on it, you'll need a new one. (I have one I'll send if needed).
Welcome aboard.
There's a sticky in the gunsmithing forum about fitting M98 extractors.
Welcome aboard!
 
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Discussion Starter #3
Hi, JBelk and thanks for your reply. I really researched how to fit the magnum extractor before I did it. I actually used your 2 write ups that you posted about 2 or three years ago as main source of info. I tried to do exactly like you said and make the extractor hold the cartridge case with about .001 or .002 clearence after case head snaps on to ejector. I measured 3 different case groove dia. and Winchester was smallest at .460. So I fit the Winchester cases like you said in your post but Fed and Horandy have more bite. All cases hold on bolt face with bolt out of gun in any direction just that the Winchester is not being forced hard against other side of bolt face. It holds on face though. As I was fitting extractor and removing material a little at a time any more tension on case extractor groove would cause very difficult chambering of round and forcing bolt closed would tear up brass, As is now , even with me deburing everything, action has a slight resistance to it as the bolt closes the last .200 . It is when case is being cammed into extractor and I get some case scuffing , I think from belt cut in chamber. Breech face to chamber edge is not sharp but belt kind of has to be.

The ejector seems to be the same as the one in my 1930 fn in 35 whelen. I have had the whelen for 25 years and never hunted with it because the gunsmith did such a terrible job on it. It would not feed right and shaved brass everywhere. Just recently I spent a good deal of time fixing it . I had to alter feed ramp angle a little , but the big thing was the chamber mouth had to have a radius. Feeds great now. So my experience with the whelen taught me a little.

The extractor on the whelen is unaltered from original mauser I believe and pinches case head a little more then Interarms but close. Also it is case brand specific. One thing that I noticed is the Interarms always ejects the second or left case perfectly but the last case is iffy.

So what would you recommend I do , it seems like a damned if you do and damned if you don't. More extractor tension and it feeds like crap, less and it does not eject well. What about a longer ejector that starts a little earlier. My model 70s just work and are a lot smoother. I really appreciate your help.
 

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M98 should have a large radius on the chamber edge. That surface is in play during feeding.

Are you forcing the bolt closed on a chambered round? That works on a M70 but not a Mauser. CFR only.

If you work an empty slowly and hold your finger so the ejector doesn't work. You should be able to feel where the fulcrum of the case is. I suspect the extractor is holding too much at the top and not enough at the middle. Make sure the radius of the cartridge head fits the concavity of the extractor just like a Whelen fits that original.
As seen from behind the bolt, the ejector hits the case at 9:00 O'clock. If the fulcrum point of the extractor is at 3:00, the case flips out at 3:00. 2:30 is better, so the fulcrum has to be a little higher. It sounds like your's is more like 1:00 or 1:30. Look for the fulcrum point.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I always load from the mag on all my rifles, all the time. It makes for good habits. So that is not an issue. I need to be more specific if I can. Empty rounds with firing pin and shroud in bolt eject pretty hard making a large ping noise and have actually put small dents in stock behind ejection cut out of receiver. Loaded rounds with firing pin removed eject mostly good but last case is 50/50. Now I have tried to be consistent on bolt speed but the 7 rem mag case will not fit in the right bolt lug raceway, the whelen does. The 7 mag case will try to wedge in raceway with a perfect 3 o clock ejection. So the case on a perfect 3 o clock hit stops and falls either *** end out first or back on follower. I think loaded cases eject better with upward pressure from another round under it. I tried what you said and it looks like a 2:30 to 3:00 hit. I think I need to file or grind a angular relief cut were inner upper bolt lug race way meets ejection cut so case does not hit sharp corner. But your way more Knowledgeable than me. The extractor on interarms is not hitting on top of case it only makes contact on side or a little lower to hold case on bolt face after snapping in. My problem may be I am spoiled by my other rifles, but they work. My 96 swede is smooth as silk. But that still has the cartridge in it that it was designed for.

The interarms is a little hard to cock, kind of like an old savage 110. I checked the firing pin spring and it is at least one coil longer than any other 98s I have to compare. Could a shorter spring make it easier to cock?

I am really Thankful for your advice. My issues with this rifle is I want to let my boys use it and I want it as good as can be for their safety and success

Thanks.
 

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Shortning (or lightening) the FP spring will make it easier to cock but slows lock time and if too much is taken, ignition is affected. You could switch out springs to test it.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
JBelk,
I wanted to post some pics about the ejection issues I was referring to with mark x rifle. The first two are of the corner that I think needs a chamfer to improve ejection. The next two show bolt face with new extractor that I fit from a new standard one and the other, on the left is the original one. Notice the chip half way up the edge, right were it was supposed to pinch the case. My guess is someone hand chambered a round and forced bolt closed resulting in chip.

I tried some new cases last night that were empty and they ejected pretty well but hit hard on the corner in question on the way out. I tried to feel for the fulcrum or pivot point like you suggested and I'm guessing maybe it's 2:30 or 2:45.

Only the last fully loaded round is not being reliably ejected. But any before that are, and empties do better. My other rifles just do not have that much metal on that section of the receiver. A button ejector would throw the case the minute the case mouth cleared the front of the ejection cut in receiver. With this blade ejector the case goes much deeper in the receiver before ejection begins. View attachment 99645 View attachment 99646 View attachment 99647 View attachment 99648
 

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Discussion Starter #8
One more question about scope mounts. My mark X has never had a scope mounted on it . It still has filler screws. Retail sites say a Leupold 2 piece base set for FN mauser fits the Mark x, but I believe Leupold uses 8-32 or 8-40 screws. Any chance the Interarms is metric. Nightmare scenario were screws go in somewhat then strip out receiver threads I would really like to avoid!
 

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The Shadow
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Unless you were born with two crippled left elbows as hands, you can feel when a screw is wrong; and long before anything strips.;)


Cheers
 

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All scope mounting screws are the odd-ball, used for nothing else, 6-48 and are plenty strong. Marlin and a couple others had 8-40 scope mounts for a while, but 6-48 is the world-wide 'standard'.
A fixed ejector, as found in Mausers, Springfield, M70 and others depend on bolt speed to get the job done. The ejector doesn't move but the case does. Once you removed metal it ain't coming back, but that edge does nothing and you can remove it if you like.

Here 's an original M98 G33/40 on the left and an original Orbendorf-made, true magnum Mauser in .375 H&H on the right.

Case scarring is something Mauser wasn't concerned with at all. He wanted the most reliable rifle in the world....and built it.

I shoot 99% varmints and targets. None of those rifle have an ejector in them. Plunger or fixed, they're gone. I pick each case out of the action so I'm not chasing brass.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Hey Dakker, I have been a toolmaker and supervisor for 35 years. Anybody ever talk like that to me and they're going to need a good dental plan at their next job, because after I fire them, they're going to be missing some teeth! If all you got to offer is BS save it for some else who is going to put up with it, I do not have the time or patience for your crap.

Mr. Belk, I once again appreciate your responses . Worse case I'd just slap the action in a bridgeport and drill the out and tap to something else. I had an issue mounting some bases to an MR7 last year. The screws from leupold were to short for a good bite , about .125 long all four. Three of the holes were long enough for .250 , maybe with a little fiting. I ordered some from work and fought with a CS rep at Leupold that the screws were to short. Anyways the longer screws felt a lot better going to full torque spec with more threads engaged.

Thanks
 

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Some gun companies D&T the receiver without the barrel installed. That limits thread depth and must run the scope companies nuts. It's fun to go into a big mill supply house and ask for a 6-48 tap. They'll tell you there is no such thing. ;)

ACE Hardware stores has a scope screw selection and maybe even a tap! There are now three 6x48 screws to deal with--- Fillister, socket head and Weaver-type.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Yea, I'm in a position were I can have just about any screw you can imagine made for me, but at what cost. I could have one of my guys make me some , but I got other things for them to do. That's why I asked about the metric thing , I could plan ahead and get some blank socket head cap screws and turn them to what ever thread that interarms happened to use. As long as the head can fit in the scope base's counter bores. Time on the job has taught me whenever you take something for granted your going to get bit in the ***.

Many years ago I worked in a real nice tool shop with for that time was loaded with state of art cnc machines. They were all relatively new but just out of warranty. One of are large Hurco mills went down. It would start a program cycle and quit , mid cycle. Well after 8 weeks of constant service guys tearing that whole machine apart, it was the damn Start button. It was on some sort of a feed back loop cycle and would start a cycle and than cause it to stop. Well the down time and repair bill was 50,000. It is lessons like that you take with you to your grave. Never over look the easy stuff!
 

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Mr,Belk , Just curious have you ever gone the re-bore route with a new cartidge. I'm entertaining a push feed model 70 bored in to another 35 whelen with a 12 or 14 twist. My current whelen is a 16 twist on a 98 and has a mag length of 3.305 with a lot of free-bore. Can't get anywhere near the rifling. Factory Rem 200s for instance are jumping .375 to the lands. Maybe get a speer 250 about .150 at best. Be nice to have a longer mag.

Thanks
 

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Hey Dakker, I have been a toolmaker and supervisor for 35 years. Anybody ever talk like that to me and they're going to need a good dental plan at their next job, because after I fire them, they're going to be missing some teeth! If all you got to offer is BS save it for some else who is going to put up with it, I do not have the time or patience for your crap.

Mr. Belk, I once again appreciate your responses . Worse case I'd just slap the action in a bridgeport and drill the out and tap to something else. I had an issue mounting some bases to an MR7 last year. The screws from leupold were to short for a good bite , about .125 long all four. Three of the holes were long enough for .250 , maybe with a little fiting. I ordered some from work and fought with a CS rep at Leupold that the screws were to short. Anyways the longer screws felt a lot better going to full torque spec with more threads engaged.

Thanks
Settle down, Louie.

If you worked as a toolmaker then you darn well ought to have enough dexterity to figure out when a screw is about to strip :rolleyes:

Gun screws aren't turret hold-down bolts on a battleship; if it doesn't go in with fingertip pressure, you have the wrong screw. Simple.

Call Brownells and ask them what screws you need, if you don't have a caliper and thread gages handy to measure things. I'm sort of in disbelief that a toolmaker wouldn't have any idea how to measure screw diameter, and thread pitch, but whatever.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Mike G. maybe you ought to read the thread a little closer. I don't work in the tool room anymore, I run the damn thing. I didn't ask Mr. Belk about the screw threads because I don't know how to check them. Moving my way up the latter I spent a good while as Lead Inspector and can run probably more tooling machines than most people ever heard of. I got nothing to prove to anybody. My apprentice days are long past. I had to eat a lot crow, as every young guy has to in my trade. Old wise toolmakers don't like to teach you anything when they feel their job is threatened by a new young upstart, willing to work for half his wage. Kind of like the whole send our work to Mexico or China thing. Why would brownells have any idea what threads are in a European made rifle that does everything in metric or worse the make both.

It is obvious that Mr. Belk has some serious experience with mauser's . So I would be an idiot if I didn't try to pick his brain a little and see what he has run into before I do it. We have a full time staff of 30 maintenance guys. These men have all sorts of different backgrounds and expertise. Electricians , Mechanics, Millwrights. Were all skilled tradesman and we all help each other out . We're brothers and sisters and we look out for each other. That is what I thought this forum was about. Pepole with similar hobbies and interests helping each other out. Maybe I was to presumptuous about that because besides Mr,Belk there is not a hole lot of help going on here.

And by they way machinist work from prints, you do not guess what something is, you follow the damn print. If you don't you'll be on the street headed over to Unemployment. One more tidbit if you had any manufacturing experience at all, you would know we can't build things like Grandma knitting a sweater. Time is money, We have to be more efficient than the Chinese. That means Speed. By the time I feel a screw is going to strip, it's already to late. But somehow I think you Knew that.
 

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The Shadow
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Hey Dakker, I have been a toolmaker and supervisor for 35 years. Anybody ever talk like that to me and they're going to need a good dental plan at their next job, because after I fire them, they're going to be missing some teeth! If all you got to offer is BS save it for some else who is going to put up with it, I do not have the time or patience for your crap.
Here's how the world works around here:
We have several stickies and threads, reminding people to be nice and assume the better intention of someone.
It should have been painfully obvious I was merely attempting to alleviate your fear of stripping a screw unintentionally with a little humor, and even threw in a smile if you did miss the inflection.

Clearly you choose the lower road, and decided to toss out a warning for anyone's dental health if they cross you.

That isn't how things play out here.
I don't care what you do professionally, or how rotten you've acted at work.
Either learn how to act like a mildly civil adult by your next post, or I'll gladly show you the door.

The choice is yours.
 

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Mike G. I hope we get along better but it is what it is. I don't know you, and you, me neither. But were I come from there two things you never screw with , a man wife and his lively hood. Calling him out about his abilities is just as damn close. I have not lived an easy life. Come from some of the toughest men I have ever seen. WW2 and Vietnam combat vets all of them. Both my Grandfathers carried billy clubs to work most days in Detroit because they often had to beat there way in to the auto plants they worked in. Tough men that saw a lot worse in ww2. My dad just as tough after Vietnam he worked in those same plants and moonlighted as a bouncer. This city does some thing to you, the meek and weak do not do well here. I'm a product of my environment. The code is you do me right and I owe you, but you do me wrong, well you can guess the rest. Anyways hope we get along better.
 

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I've never had a gun rebored. I've re barreled a truck load, though. Most sporting rifles have one caliber of throat. By the time you get .350 of full diameter bullet hanging out of the case there's not much room for a point in the magazine. I load mine as long as my '06 magazine allows and call it good. 8x57 mag boxes are shorter and can cause problems with 2.5" cases.
 

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Not to start a pissing match but I ran a machine shop about 30 years ago, I had a lot of mechanical experience before, and for the last 26 years have been in a totally different field. In my opinion if you were competent and proficient then you really never lose that skill. With any mechanical background I don't understand how you could strip a screw when you were unsure of its size.
 
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