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I would tap the rear sight to the right a little.... about 1/16" per 1-1/2" at 100 yards.... more or less. Use a small hammer and just...tap it. Get it nice and zeroed in with the iron sights, then you can put the scope back on if you want. If ever you need to remove the scope, the rifle is ready to shoot with iron sights.

If you place a piece of masking or painting tape crossways over the barrel, just barely forward of the rear sight (there's an "arrow" shape to the front of the rear sight), and mark with a pen where the point of the "arrow" is, you'll know how far you moved it when adjusting.
 

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I was at the range and a guy and his buddy were trying to adjust the windage on a lever-action Marlin. I was down at the other end and didn;t see what caliber they were shooting, but one guy would hold it and the other guy would tap with a hammer and a little stick of wood or something. Then they'd try a few shots and start tapping from the other side. After a few shots, back they were tapping on the original side. They weren;t marking (with tape or something) to be able to tell whether or how far they moved the sight in the slot, so they were guessing the whole time.

I thought about taking my masking tape down to them and making a suggestion, but by that time they had already ticked me off with stopping the range every 2 or 3 shots so they could go down and see their target. Most guys will wait and watch the other shooters and try to guage when a good time is to go downrange, but not these two. So I let them mess with it. I don;t know if they ever got it right enough.

But back to scopes and sights: I put the Weaver K4 (fixed 4x scope) back on the rifle with Burris low rings. It doesn;t really need it, but I like shooting with the scope. Before I re-mounted the scope, I made sure the sights were dead-on, so it's ready to go if I someday rip that scope off again.
 
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